cheapest way to add time delay? any ideas?

[quins90lac 10+ year member]

This is why most people here are smart enough to get a HU with time alignment.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

This is why most people here are smart enough to get a HU with time alignment.

The Alpine PXE H650 adds time alignment to OEM radios where its limited in function because of Ai-Net. Same concept as the JBL MS8 processor.

If he had an Alpine HU it would do exactly what he needs through Ai-Net.

 

[corcraft 10+ year member]

^ thanks sarthos! I skimmed over their website and I'll def do some further looking into.

 

[Rich B 5,000+ posts]

Because to use the delay by the pra-h400 you have to have ainet hooked up through a compatible deck. I'm wanting to use an oem interface processor. You can use the pra-h400 without ainet just not the time delay on it.

Oh, sorry I didnt realize you werent using an Alpine HU.

I just looked in the manual for my PRA-H400 and I think you're right as theres no real mention of the analog inputs being used for time delay.

Its a shame Alpine never made a simple OEM to Ai-Net interface so their many Ai-Net DSP's could be used with an OEM HU.

(For that matter, they should have made a half DIN inline Ai-Net EQ for the PRA-H400 too.)

 

[corcraft 10+ year member]

^I know right! Lol. I know its old but I loved that processor.

 

[Sarthos 10+ year member]

It's some stuff from Hong Kong, I guess that you need a laptop to control it or something though, it's tuned using a USB port. But it'll let you take 2 inputs and give you 4 outputs with 31 band EQ, individual time alignment, and all sorts of selectable crossover slopes. I'd be running several had I not blown a bunch of money on an Audiocontrol EQ //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[corcraft 10+ year member]

Ahhhh... RichB you just gave me an idea by using the word "analog". The whole time I was studying on the "ainet" I wasn't even thinking digital and analog, I was just thinking "ainet". I forgot or it never crossed my mind that that processor has a digital fiber optic input as well so if I can find some type of ADC converter I can use my pra-h400 after all. I know that they make all kinds of cheap converters for ac but I haven't seen any for dc. Any ideas in this guys? Again thanks for all of your help.

 

[nateberrier 10+ year member]

20 ms lols. are you driving a school bus? also op you are a dbag for coming in here trying to flaunt your ish all over the internet as if telling us about some elite infinity group is going to make your epeen larger. ainet is the data bus between a periph and your alpine deck. if you want a dc to ac converter a good cheap way is to use an old computer power supply or pay out the arse for a converter or you can also run a float charger on an agm and hook it to that.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

20 ms lols. are you driving a school bus? also op you are a dbag for coming in here trying to flaunt your ish all over the internet as if telling us about some elite infinity group is going to make your epeen larger. ainet is the data bus between a periph and your alpine deck. if you want a dc to ac converter a good cheap way is to use an old computer power supply or pay out the arse for a converter or you can also run a float charger on an agm and hook it to that.

Just did a conversion and 20ms is equal to 6.86 meters. Thats a huge gap to make up.

 

[dumple 5,000+ posts]

Yea I guess it never dawned on me that 20ms is alot I guess if ur driving a big burban it might be seeable but what vehicle are we rocking? My furthest rear is just over 6 feet, say your running rear dedicated midbass mono would you only measure to the middle of the speakers still or in-between the two speakers

 

[corcraft 10+ year member]

I didn't flaunt, I was simply stating that "noob" was an ignorant remark and from some1 that is using pioneer coax's for front mains and rear fill while trying to give me advice rudely on sq. I would not have even mentioned it had some1 not acted like they know something that they don't while calling names. I know some about sq, I never said that I knew everything and that is why I am here to get help and advice from others. Name calling is simple uncalled for, dumb and immature, dbag. And if you would read the attachments that i put on the last page then you would know why 20ms is a good place to start for rear fill unless you have the experience and knowledge that KHA has. And btw, if I drove a school bus I wouldn't need more rear delay as they would already be delayed by the distance; you would delay more in a small car like a "loud corvette". Again like I told the other guy, read the thread before you post and you might learn something. Commenting on the tail end of a conversation only confirms that you're as lost as he is. Again, I'm not calling names, I'm sure that you're intelligent enough but you have to read the thread before you can comment without being lost.

 

[nateberrier 10+ year member]

Time delay in MS is relative to the distance of the other speakers in the car. you might have two drivers in the front, on is at 5ft and the other at 6.5ft but you dont put 10ms and 11 on the other (this is just an example) you would just put no delay on the one and 1ms on the other. to need a 20ms delay you would need a huge vehicle lols or a living room.

 

[corcraft 10+ year member]

^Yes, That is how I do my front stage and play with it a little as needed but the whole thread is about me wanting to add more delay to rear fill and if I had a school bus then I would't need more delay on rear fill but less. Read those attachments that I put on this thread- You may have to copy and paste because I was using my blackberry when I put them on here. It explains the haas effect and the use of 20ms over the front as a starting point for rear fill. I didn't write the info, I simply did a google search when I was getting questioned on my "theory" if you will (I couldn't think of a better term) that I used years ago.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

^Yes, That is how I do my front stage and play with it a little as needed but the whole thread is about me wanting to add more delay to rear fill and if I had a school bus then I would't need more delay on rear fill but less. Read those attachments that I put on this thread- You may have to copy and paste because I was using my blackberry when I put them on here. It explains the haas effect and the use of 20ms over the front as a starting point for rear fill. I didn't write the info, I simply did a google search when I was getting questioned on my "theory" if you will (I couldn't think of a better term) that I used years ago.

I dont think you understand the math involved. If you read a few posts up I gave you the equation from Eclipse. That encompasses time delay for every speaker except for the one that is the furthest away from the listening position.

 

[corcraft 10+ year member]

I understand the math completely. 1ms per foot- got it. What I am referring to is way beyond that. Read the attachments that I posted if you have the time. I'm looking for how "cheaply" not why. I know why I want to do it, how with the tools that I have is the question. I need a cheap way to get an analog to digital converter and problem is solved. They make plenty of cheap ones ($20-$50) for ac but haven't found a dc- guess I could always use a converter for that to, lol.