cdt's or infinity kappas?

[Unreal 10+ year member]

Decent, but no where near what the CDTs sound like. I had CDTs in my last car, and the difference is enough that I'll probably sell the kappas sooner or later and get some CDTs.

The tweeters are bright, and the midbass is lacking.

 

[slick rick 10+ year member]

Decent, but no where near what the CDTs sound like. I had CDTs in my last car, and the difference is enough that I'll probably sell the kappas sooner or later and get some CDTs.
The tweeters are bright, and the midbass is lacking.

im 90% sure ill buy the cdt's tomorrow/ im just worried about fitaments in my 2k2 max. it is 2.5" and the speakers are a little deeper than that.

 

[kevinsean23 10+ year member]

Hi, I happen to run both cdt's and kappas in my 2001 maxima.

So I know that the cdt's will fit. You just need to space them.

Also, I recommend not to get the 60.5cs kappa components if you were comparing the two- with the cdt cl-61's.

I used to have the 60.5cs and there was a lack of midrange and the tweets sounded like crap. they were very harsh, "crackled", and sharp.

On the other hand, the CDT's have been pretty good. The sound and definition is very good. Better midrange and the tweets are smooth.

So, in comparison, CDT thumbs up infinity kappa thumbs down.

Let us know what u think of them when they're in.

 

[slick rick 10+ year member]

Hi, I happen to run both cdt's and kappas in my 2001 maxima. So I know that the cdt's will fit. You just need to space them.

Also, I recommend not to get the 60.5cs kappa components if you were comparing the two- with the cdt cl-61's.

I used to have the 60.5cs and there was a lack of midrange and the tweets sounded like crap. they were very harsh, "crackled", and sharp.

On the other hand, the CDT's have been pretty good. The sound and definition is very good. Better midrange and the tweets are smooth.

So, in comparison, CDT thumbs up infinity kappa thumbs down.

Let us know what u think of them when they're in.

i purchased the cl-61's. hwo do you space them in the maxima? what tools do i need? and will they sound good off a pioneer 8500mp. and also... check out maxima.org!!!

 

[kevinsean23 10+ year member]

Unreal help me out here- I had the audio shop install my cdt's and i believe he told me he put spacers on. I wouldn't know where to get them at the moment.

However, first thing u will notice about the cdt's is the the sound eminating from the speakers come out in a very controlled manner unlike the kappas where the sound comes out in a wide formation. Hard to explain; hope u get what i'm saying. This is benfitial for improving sound stage.

Hope u like. Oh, btw, i am a member on maxima.org i have the same user name too.

Hope all goes well. what's ur user name i'll look u up when i'm on the .org

 

[slick rick 10+ year member]

Unreal help me out here- I had the audio shop install my cdt's and i believe he told me he put spacers on. I wouldn't know where to get them at the moment. However, first thing u will notice about the cdt's is the the sound eminating from the speakers come out in a very controlled manner unlike the kappas where the sound comes out in a wide formation. Hard to explain; hope u get what i'm saying. This is benfitial for improving sound stage.

Hope u like. Oh, btw, i am a member on maxima.org i have the same user name too.

Hope all goes well. what's ur user name i'll look u up when i'm on the .org

how do i make a spacer? its slickrick on the org.

what do you have pushing the cdt's? h/u or amp? and how many watts?

 

[kevinsean23 10+ year member]

I'm running the cdt's on a alpine mrv f450.

The speakers are getting 50w RMS right now due to me powering 4 speakers. I would like to be getting more, but i would have to totally rewire my speakers.

The speakers are recommended to get 90w RMS but they still sound good.

If you're running rear speakers, it would be best to power them off of your HU- i have the rears powered by the amplifier right now which is probably a waste of available power. I have infinity 63.5i's in the rear which are pretty good and since they're down low don't mess up my sound stage too bad. Ironically these cheaper infinitys in the rear sound better than the infinity components. They're collecting dust in the garage right now.

 

[kevinsean23 10+ year member]

Oh, as far as the spacers, just pick them up at an audio store before they close today. I'm sure they're not that much. I'm sure u want to get these in asap.

 

[slick rick 10+ year member]

I'm running the cdt's on a alpine mrv f450.The speakers are getting 50w RMS right now due to me powering 4 speakers. I would like to be getting more, but i would have to totally rewire my speakers.

The speakers are recommended to get 90w RMS but they still sound good.

If you're running rear speakers, it would be best to power them off of your HU- i have the rears powered by the amplifier right now which is probably a waste of available power. I have infinity 63.5i's in the rear which are pretty good and since they're down low don't mess up my sound stage too bad. Ironically these cheaper infinitys in the rear sound better than the infinity components. They're collecting dust in the garage right now.

my speakers are not in yet but ill go to circuit city and buy some. i have a 250 watt 2 channel mtx amp. ideally id like to run the components off them and run the h/u on the back speakers. is this possible? and how do you do it? thanks for the help.

 

[kevinsean23 10+ year member]

I've never installed a sound system myself, but have paid shops to do it. (This would probably explain why it never seems to come out how i like. If u want something done right do it yourself)

I looked around and found a site

Look below it shows the wiring color method for Nissans:

http://www.installdr.com/QuickWiring.html

Now, from what I gather, just connect the appropriate color wires to HU and connect the front components to the first two channels on the amp.

Hopefully i'll learn more about this on the web. I needed to learn this anyway.

 

[slick rick 10+ year member]

I've never installed a sound system myself, but have paid shops to do it. (This would probably explain why it never seems to come out how i like. If u want something done right do it yourself)I looked around and found a site

Look below it shows the wiring color method for Nissans:

http://www.installdr.com/QuickWiring.html

Now, from what I gather, just connect the appropriate color wires to HU and connect the front components to the first two channels on the amp.

Hopefully i'll learn more about this on the web. I needed to learn this anyway.

yeah people want way too much money to install the rest of my system so im going to do it myself. i think ill install the amp for the highs later. do you know how to pull off the doors by any chance?

 

[kevinsean23 10+ year member]

No problem.

Let's see, I did this over a year ago so it may not be cronological.

1) Get a flathead screwdriver

2) There's a round little cap inside the part of the door handle-the part u put your fingers into to close the door- pop that out,

3) then there will be a philips screw exposed. Unscrew that.

4) pop the cup part of the door handle out by pinching the sides- pinch on each of the longest sides- maybe with another screw driver also and gently take up and out.

5) Pop the little frame part from around the door handle- the actual one u use to open the door with- probably cover the flat head with a cloth or shirt and go around the frame part and loosen- kind of like what u sometimes do with pickle jars to get the lid open. Be careful u don't want to scratch or break anything.

I think there is a write up on Maxima.org for the 4th gen. Same process anyway.

6) Once the handle frame is off and the screw is out of the door handle hand rest part, take the flat head with a cloth or shirt covering it and go around the perimeter of the door panels and apply pressure, u should feel something let loose. There's little clips holding the door panel on the inside all around. I would guess maybe six of them.

7) Once they are all popped, the door panel should be coming off.

Push the door panel up and then bring the panel towards u.

It should be hanging if let go. There are some wires that are still connected.

8) Get on ur back and look into the door from the bottom. There are 2 sockets for the wires for the door light and the window buttons. Once u find them disconnect them. The door panel should be totally free now.

Be careful if u disturb the plastic lining on the door to make sure that it is replaced and sealed properly. Otherwise, u may get water inside there which is not good for ur electronics and possibly increase chances of getting ur speakers wet.

Remember the Ctd's are made of treated cardboard something like that. Old school, but excellent application. Btw, these instructions are for the front doors.

The back door panels are much simpler. Just get the door handle frame off and pop the clips by placing the flathead and placing pressure around the perimeter and push up and then bring towards u. I think so. It has been quite a while though. Please read throughly and double check.

 

[slick rick 10+ year member]

No problem.Let's see, I did this over a year ago so it may not be cronological.

1) Get a flathead screwdriver

2) There's a round little cap inside the part of the door handle-the part u put your fingers into to close the door- pop that out,

3) then there will be a philips screw exposed. Unscrew that.

4) pop the cup part of the door handle out by pinching the sides- pinch on each of the longest sides- maybe with another screw driver also and gently take up and out.

5) Pop the little frame part from around the door handle- the actual one u use to open the door with- probably cover the flat head with a cloth or shirt and go around the frame part and loosen- kind of like what u sometimes do with pickle jars to get the lid open. Be careful u don't want to scratch or break anything.

I think there is a write up on Maxima.org for the 4th gen. Same process anyway.

6) Once the handle frame is off and the screw is out of the door handle hand rest part, take the flat head with a cloth or shirt covering it and go around the perimeter of the door panels and apply pressure, u should feel something let loose. There's little clips holding the door panel on the inside all around. I would guess maybe six of them.

7) Once they are all popped, the door panel should be coming off.

Push the door panel up and then bring the panel towards u.

It should be hanging if let go. There are some wires that are still connected.

8) Get on ur back and look into the door from the bottom. There are 2 sockets for the wires for the door light and the window buttons. Once u find them disconnect them. The door panel should be totally free now.

Be careful if u disturb the plastic lining on the door to make sure that it is replaced and sealed properly. Otherwise, u may get water inside there which is not good for ur electronics and possibly increase chances of getting ur speakers wet.

Remember the Ctd's are made of treated cardboard something like that. Old school, but excellent application. Btw, these instructions are for the front doors.

The back door panels are much simpler. Just get the door handle frame off and pop the clips by placing the flathead and placing pressure around the perimeter and push up and then bring towards u. I think so. It has been quite a while though. Please read throughly and double check.

great write up! now how do you remove the a pillar for the tweeters? and since the cdt's i have are too big for the doors i bought 1" spacers. will these be too big? shuld i buy 1/2" spacers instead? and also you mentioned the cdt's are part cardboard, so is it really worth it to buy foam baffles for the speakers? thanks for al the help btw.

 

[kevinsean23 10+ year member]

Ah, I found it. It's called a lifting ring at least by crutchfield. Yes, 1" should work fine. Also, I wouldn't worry about getting the baffles. I have checked the inside of my door a couple times and water getting on them doesn't seem to be an issue. They are treated too don't worry they're not cheap junk like the stock paper clarions we had haha.

 

[slick rick 10+ year member]

Ah, I found it. It's called a lifting ring at least by crutchfield. Yes, 1" should work fine. Also, I wouldn't worry about getting the baffles. I have checked the inside of my door a couple times and water getting on them doesn't seem to be an issue. They are treated too don't worry they're not cheap junk like the stock paper clarions we had haha.

ok cool. i have a 1" spacer kit i bought so i should be straight. yeah those clarios do ****. but i will admit, for a stock system not bad.