The P.Chamfer option is simply a machining option for the pole top where I put a chamfer on it to aid in forcing the air through the gap and around the coil each time the sub moves in and out. It reduces back pressure under the dustcap (keeps the dustcaps on at extreme pressures for SPL apps).
The Cooling option includes the pole chamfer as well as axially machinde vents along both the pole and the top plate. This allows for maximum air flow around the coil for cooling when the sub is in motion (meaning when you are not playing right at tuning and the sub is moving minimally even with extreme power to it). The full cooling option is best for daily applications or low tuned bassrace systems. Doesnt do much for some SPL apps where you simply arent having the sub move much compared to the applied power... perfect example is some of the nutty bandpass designs extreme guys are using where you are stuffing an 18" into less than 2 cuft sealed and feeding it 20kW... subs move about 1/4" so cooling does absolutely nothing.
3rd magnet is for two different applications... first is to provide extra clearance for the longer high xmax coil. Second is for extreme high current SPL applications where the extra magnet will aid in reducing power compression from the coils induced field. The magnet only adds about 1-2% extra motor strength over the standard 2 magnet version, but it does help a decent amount more than that in some SPL apps.
HiXMcoil option is a longer coil to increase Xmax from about 16mm to 26-27mm. Again, for some SPL apps it does nothing if the coil isnt moving much beyond the current Xmax... but for the bassrace or low tuned daily guys, it is helping quite a bit. For the daily guys, I do open the gap up an extra .010" to help keep things from rubbing under extreme use and excursion. You lose a little bit of Bl in doing this, but it really is trivial compared to what the sub will do with a fair amount of power to it.
Teflon is something being tested right now and it will add a protective layer to the pole that allows the coil to occassionally rub on for very tight gap designs without rubbing through the former. it also reduces the noise associated with the coil knocking or rubbing on the pole. Working great so far... but still want to make sure that there arent any heat issues for long term abuse.
Inner Heatsink will be available in a couple of months. I awaiting a sample of the extrusion to make sure it is dimensionally correct. With this option, you have to use the larger 110mm ID magnets instead of the standard ID magnets. This allows room to stick a 10mm thick ring inside the motor that both reduces inductance, and helps transfer heat away form the coil. As a Faraday ring it is thick enough to actually reduce inductance in the bass region... where as many of the "copper shorting rings" that people like to use are so thin that they only change inductance well outside the subs useful range... yes they lower inductance at 1000Hz... but you had better not be playing your sub up there anyway.
