Capacitor or no?

from basic car audio electronics 

Keep in mind that the discharge is only for a fraction of a second. The capacitor can not act like a battery. It only serves to fill in what would otherwise be very small dips in the supply voltage.
very small dips... yeah.. gonna be a big help... you think an alt is gonna spool up and react within that time frame.. cap or not? how about no?

another from basic car audio electronics 

Of course, if you ask someone that's spent more than $100 on a capacitor if it helped, they'll tell you that it has. Why on earth would someone 'fess up' to wasting that much money on 'snake oil'. I've yet to see a capacitor increase the SPL in any system.
I'm waiting... show me the light oh wonderous one... please...

Loyd L.

 
Will a capacitor ruin an alternator or battery?

I am running about 2000 watts (1400 to my sub and 600 to my cabin components)......will this ruin my alternator or battery? Both amps are Phoenix Gold amps and my car is a 2003 M3 Coupe. Please advise.

 
heh, it can

and as loyd proved, ti wont help you any.

with teh kind of cash you must have on tap, grab a new alternator... or an Optima Yellow top in the trunk with an isolator (i think) acting as a trickle charger

 
Originally posted by bigbassman funny... richard clark always seemed pretty knowledgable to me.
yes I agree he is. I have read and own the 800+ page book by him an Dave the A2TB.also have read the guide to great car stereo ----- by them too [think that the name]

Also have read an own daves ---alt whine book

and also e-mail them with q's here and there

that is his graph, taken directly from his site...
that's great---- RC loves to test things-------- May I ask.... what was HIS purpose of the graph? Why was the test done?can you paste --------- HIS text to the graph

1------- I think you'll find you are incorrect about what the graph is for

2 ------- Richard clark pioneered the use of the CAP in car audio and NEVER ONCE has he said "they don't work"

3 ------- RC is clearly trying to show something else in this graph for which you have not pasted HIS text ------------

BECAUSE the graph clearly says """""" dummy load''''''''''''' He is clearly trying to show how a DC load effects the charging system ------------------- NOT an AMP---------- I repeat---------- not an amp.

I have an 800+ page text book in front of me where he does many tests proving the DO work --------- and well I might add

until you can show proof otherwise... I'll listen to him, and go by what I've learned, since they match..
have you ever hearn the term "data fiting" it were someone is looking for an answer so hard that when they find something that fits they think it proves their point-------- when in realitity they should have READ THE TEXT or looked at the answer more closely. you say " i'll listen to him" thing is you took HIS graph and used it for something HE never was saying

and you're a prick.. major prick..

show me data that anything under the farad level I suggested does anything worthwhile.. I'm not talking about 1 farad on a 50 watt amp either... prove me wrong... And try not to come across so assholeish.. I may ponder what you say if you're somewhat mature..

Loyd L.
I think if you look at the text that the graph had with it you'd kick yourself
 
Originally posted by bigbassman while an long period timed test isn't exactly relevant, the FIRST SECOND is very relevant... see much of a help by the cap? Many many installs will have a 200 amp draw on hard bass passages... like I said.. the first second of this test tells all...
uummm ---- no aspect of that graph has anything to do with ------- an amp being the load------------- note the phrase-------- """ DUMMY LOAD """"maybe the phase has a pun intended ------- sorry cheap shot

tell these guys to blow hard earned money on something worthless.... I sure as hell won't... There's much easier, and cheaper ways to help sustain voltage...

Loyd L.
how do you go about it???? if you not using a cap
 
Originally posted by mav2002 Will a capacitor ruin an alternator or battery?

 

I am running about 2000 watts (1400 to my sub and 600 to my cabin components)......will this ruin my alternator or battery? Both amps are Phoenix Gold amps and my car is a 2003 M3 Coupe. Please advise.
no ---- ratther it may extend the life of those
 
Originally posted by Wonderbread heh, it can

and as loyd proved, ti wont help you any.

with teh kind of cash you must have on tap, grab a new alternator... or an Optima Yellow top in the trunk with an isolator (i think) acting as a trickle charger
if you believe loyd has proved something by posting a random graph with the phase "dummy load" and WITHOUT RC'S text than F*ck my job is harder than I thought:crazy:
------- side note---- a second battery will only increase car OFF listening time and BECOME A LOAD when the car is on-------- talk about making the problem worse

------- you wouldn't want an isolator in the first place..... they have a voltage drop

 
guys----------- looks like BIGBASSMAN has use a graph show the uselessnes of big ESR caps and the 200A load is to show that the high ESR kills the design

RC text------

Lesson 8

For this lesson I have done some actual measurements. Here are the test conditions: To measure voltage we used an Audio Precision with a DCX module. It is accurate to three decimal places. For sample time we chose 40 samples per second. For the non audio system test I used a KAL carbon pile load tester. It can do power tests on 12 volt charging systems up to 1200amps continuous. The audio system consisted of a couple of Rockford 1100 amps bridged into four ohm nominal speakers. The alternator was a stock Delco 80 amp CS type unit. Its case temperature was monitored by a Raytek ST2L IR sensor. Engine speed was regulated with a Thexton #398 IACV tester. The music material was the SPL track # 30 from the IASCA competition disc. The battery was a Stinger spb-1000. All voltage measurements were done directly at the terminals of one of the amps.

Chart 1 Alternator/cap/batt test with 200 amp dummy load

For this test we monitored the voltage of the car with the stereo turned off. With the car running the voltage can be seen to be stable at about 13.7 volts. After 22 seconds (The horizontal scale is 100 seconds-10 sec per major division) we applied a 200 amp load. The voltage can be seen to drop to 11.6 on both traces. This test obviously exceeds the ability of the alternator to keep its regulation set point so its voltage falls. The drop can be seen to be nearly instant (steep curve) until about 12.5 volts where the battery starts to supply a significant amount of the power. Ultimately the voltage drops to 11.6 and at 26 seconds we turn off the load. The voltage then starts to rise to the regulator set point as the battery is recharged (yellow curve) and as the battery and cap (green curve) are recharged. At a time of 50 seconds I turn the motor off so the alternator stops. The voltage then droops down to the float voltage of the battery—about 12.7. The only reason for the small difference at 50 seconds is because I couldn’t get the timing of the engine shut-off exactly the same every time. I did it several times and these two are within one second. That was as close as I could get it.

I am able to see no difference from these measurements. There are microscopic differences but I believe they are due to the alternator temperature. Alternator regulators are usually temperature sensitive. As they get hotter they tend to fold back. For this reason we let the unit cool off between each test and closely monitored the case temp throughout the tests. For this reason I believe that none of these measurements are meaningful to more than a couple tenths of a volt.

this came out of a post on carsound about the uselessness of big cap cause of the ESR. It thread is 5 pages long. For some reason poeple seem to think that RC is tring to show ALL cap don't work........ he isn't ---- he is just showing BIG caps don't because of the ESR

here is the thread

http://www.carsound.com/ubb/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20010126-1-000307.html

----------------------------------------------------------- but the battle continues against the uninformed

 
You seem to be very knowledgable about Caps. I will run a Phoenix Gold 1200.1 (1400 watts) and a Phoenix Gold 600.4 (650 watts). Do I need 1 farad cap for each? I'm thinking that the 1 farad (or possibly 2?) only needs to be hooked up to the 1200.1 amp that is driving my subs? am i close to being right?

all this talk about "cap vs no cap" has me confused.

 
well chris in my many arguments w/ you on the subject i have found out that you are very knowlegable on the issue...in my opinion a cap may very well help the amps by providing them w/ a temp. source of xtra power for the deep bass hits....unless the charging system is up to par to begin w/ it will just add more of a load on the alt.....so in essence you are both correct....the cap will help the amp...but will also present a load on the alt.....i usually recomend upgrading the alt or get it rewound before getting a cap...but thats jus me....

 
Originally posted by Goddyd4me well chris in my many arguments w/ you on the subject i have found out that you are very knowlegable on the issue...in my opinion a cap may very well help the amps by providing them w/ a temp. source of xtra power for the deep bass hits....unless the charging system is up to par to begin w/ it will just add more of a load on the alt.....so in essence you are both correct....the cap will help the amp...but will also present a load on the alt.....i usually recomend upgrading the alt or get it rewound before getting a cap...but thats jus me....
the cap isn't a load UNLESS its voltage sits below the alternators. A cap will always help no matter the state of the charging system. It does so by exposing the alternator to a more stable load and exposing the amp to a more stable voltage
There is one drawback -------------- a cap is useless in a SPL car the plays test tones because the system has no recover time and the duty cycle is 100%

Basicly there isn't any break in the load to the charging system because you are playing steady notes

 
Originally posted by mav2002 You seem to be very knowledgable about Caps. I will run a Phoenix Gold 1200.1 (1400 watts) and a Phoenix Gold 600.4 (650 watts). Do I need 1 farad cap for each? I'm thinking that the 1 farad (or possibly 2?) only needs to be hooked up to the 1200.1 amp that is driving my subs? am i close to being right?

 

all this talk about "cap vs no cap" has me confused.
I'd go with 2.5F or 3F ----- you want a raw caps---no LED voltage readouts as they render the cap useless

you want CAN type caps as they have LOW ESR/ESL

esr must be .001-.002 ohm range as anything higher is a wast of money

they must be wired as close to the amps a physicly possible------- avoid distorblocks or fuse banks between the amp and caps

short wire too.----- The longer the wire between them the more that inductance will counteract the caps effectiveness

 
Originally posted by chris229 the cap isn't a load UNLESS its voltage sits below the alternators. A cap will always help no matter the state of the charging system. It does so by exposing the alternator to a more stable load and exposing the amp to a more stable voltage
Not entirely true...

The cap will be a "load" or strain on the vehicle electrical system. If it were able to independantly maintain the 14.4 volts that the alternator produces at idle, then it would not be as much of an issue. A Cars battery can not produce 14.4 volts on its own-therefor, it is also a load. A cap will not produce anything near 14.4 on its own either. Therefore, it is also a load. A stock alternator is designed to charge the battery in the vehicle and keep all the cars electronics going while the car is running. The stock Alt offers little to no headroom for additional electronic additions. Now instead of the alternator and battery working together, there is a third element within the path to additionally require power that the vehicles stock charging system was not designed for. Thats a strain on the electrical system to me.

An electrical load is defined in automotive terms as any device or object that requires the assistance of of the charging system to maintain its proper functionability.

While running, this includes, the battery, the ignition system, all lamps, and all accessories-including A/C, Heater, Defrost, Power Locks, etc- CAR STEREO'S!

These all require the alternator to sustain them.

While not running, the battery is the power source, any devices which require it to sustain them are loads upon the battery.

There is one drawback -------------- a cap is useless in a SPL car the plays test tones because the system has no recover time and the duty cycle is 100%

Basicly there isn't any break in the load to the charging system because you are playing steady notes
So now there isnt any break in the aforementioned "load," which you previously claimed did not exist?

So are you saying that a cap is or isnt a load? Thats a bit contradictory dont you think?

A cap is a load, therefore, is a good deal counter-productive to the system and the vehicle.

I would not reccomend them, unless you are willing to waste your money on non-essentials.

Stick the money into bumping up the amps on the alternator. Upgrade the power source, and the rest becomes relatively moot.

take it easy,

-zane

 
I really don't care for what some automotive person or book says --------- as the laws of physics are what defines electricity

Originally posted by zane Not entirely true...

The cap will be a "load" or strain on the vehicle electrical system. If it were able to independantly maintain the 14.4 volts that the alternator produces at idle, then it would not be as much of an issue.
that mind you is exactly what a cap does----- charge to a voltage and hold. How can current flow from the alternator to the cap if the cap is at the same voltage???
A Cars battery can not produce 14.4 volts on its own-therefor, it is also a load.
correct because a batteries voltage sits at around 12.8V. Keep in mind that current always flows from the highest voltage
A cap will not produce anything near 14.4 on its own either. Therefore, it is also a load.
just because it doesn't produce a voltage on its own doesn't make it a load. A load MUST sit at a voltage below the current provider---alternator. the study of electricity is been going on for along time and caps are well understood
A stock alternator is designed to charge the battery in the vehicle and keep all the cars electronics going while the car is running. The stock Alt offers little to no headroom for additional electronic additions. Now instead of the alternator and battery working together,
the battery and alt DON'T work together----- the battery is a load and you were correct the first time when you said it------ unless your seeing the battery as a pimp and the alternator is a Whor*----then in that case they work together
there is a third element within the path to additionally require power that the vehicles stock charging system was not designed for. Thats a strain on the electrical system to me.
because the cap is charged to the voltage of the alternator ------- the effect can be seen as if it wasn't there at all --------- because as I said before no current can flow into it
An electrical load is defined in automotive terms as any device or object that requires the assistance of of the charging system to maintain its proper functionability.
blah------- don't use autotech books
While running, this includes, the battery, the ignition system, all lamps, and all accessories-including A/C, Heater, Defrost, Power Locks, etc- CAR STEREO'S!

These all require the alternator to sustain them.

While not running, the battery is the power source, any devices which require it to sustain them are loads upon the battery.
---correct here-----


 

So now there isnt any break in the aforementioned "load," which you previously claimed did not exist?
i'm sorry guess I wasn't clear---- the load i'm refering to here is the amp drawing a steady current
 

So are you saying that a cap is or isnt a load? Thats a bit contradictory dont you think?
read above
 

A cap is a load, therefore, is a good deal counter-productive to the system and the vehicle.
caps have been uderstood for along time now in electricity---- not something new. Almost everthing you use involves caps. You need to do some research on what caps do and how they work
 

I would not reccomend them, unless you are willing to waste your money on non-essentials.
hell I wouldn't recommend them either if I didn't know what they hell the did or how they work---------- how could you ------- you couldn't explain how'd they would help
 

Stick the money into bumping up the amps on the alternator. Upgrade the power source, and the rest becomes relatively moot.

did you know that alternators & batteries are slow to respond to loads------but that is another thread
 
Originally posted by chris229 I really don't care for what some automotive person or book says --------- as the laws of physics are what defines electricity
Hrmm.. politely kick your self in the shennanigan. Automotive Electronics have everything to do with what this discussion entails. If you do not care about what is common knowledge and instruction in the automotive world then continuing this discussion is pointless, as you will not be able to grasp anything from here on out. However, if you still would like to insist that my ASE manuals for Advanced Automotive Electronics, and Mitchel Repair Manuals are just a bunch of BS; I guess you had better get busy informing all the mechanics across the globe, that what they have learned is all wrong.

that mind you is exactly what a cap does----- charge to a voltage and hold. How can current flow from the alternator to the cap if the cap is at the same voltage???
I was unclear in my previous post. Sorry for the confusion.

The cap would be a load only when its voltage falls below 14.4 volts. (Car at idle)

However, as a cap only contains enough reserve for a second or two, it is useless after that, and becomes a load on the charging system more often than not.

You can referecnce this tech article on rec.audio.car

"Although a battery may be able to respond in tenths of a second, bass notes are often much shorter and need current immediately -- which capacitors can supply. The difference between the two is that while the capacitor can supply a large amount of current immediately, their voltage quickly drops making them ineffective "

http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/rac-faq_2.html#SEC23

Or from http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/capacitr.htm

"Keep in mind that the discharge is only for a fraction of a second. The capacitor can not act like a battery. It only serves to fill in what would otherwise be very small dips in the supply voltage. "

just because it doesn't produce a voltage on its own doesn't make it a load. A load MUST sit at a voltage below the current provider---alternator. the study of electricity is been going on for along time and caps are well understood
see above- this has also been clarified.

the battery and alt DON'T work together----- the battery is a load and you were correct the first time when you said it------ unless your seeing the battery as a pimp and the alternator is a Whor*----then in that case they work together
They do work together. In simplest terms, Each is the sole power supply while the car is not running or running respectively.

Yes, while the vehicle is running, the battery is a load. It is not a load when the vehicle is not running.

All components of the charging system work together. This is common auotmotive knowledge.....

because the cap is charged to the voltage of the alternator ------- the effect can be seen as if it wasn't there at all --------- because as I said before no current can flow into it
Refer to above- I have clarified myself on this matter.

blah------- don't use autotech books
So all mechanics are wrong now?

Blah- Mabey you need to take a look into some automotve tech books, as this issue does pertain to automotive electronics.

caps have been uderstood for along time now in electricity---- not something new. Almost everthing you use involves caps. You need to do some research on what caps do and how they work
I agree- caps have been arround for a long time and are extensively used, however, thier purpose is never to supplement a weak power supply.

I fully understand how caps work thank you. Mabey its time you do some research into applied automotive electronics.

hell I wouldn't recommend them either if I didn't know what they hell the did or how they work---------- how could you ------- you couldn't explain how'd they would help
I believe RC put it best:

Richard Clark Writes:"..The audio industry is the only place i know of where you can publish specs that show your product is useless and still be able to sell them------and whats worse is that technically ignorant people will argue against the math!!!!!!!..............RC.."
Perry Babin also:

"This is because there has been some discussion as to whether a capacitor is a help or a hinderence when it comes to keeping the voltage at a higher level than without it. Of course, if you ask someone that's spent more than $100 on a capacitor if it helped, they'll tell you that it has. Why on earth would someone 'fess up' to wasting that much money on 'snake oil'. I've yet to see a capacitor increase the SPL in any system. "
You can reference that right from his site:

http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/capacitr.htm

did you know that alternators & batteries are slow to respond to loads------but that is another thread
I can see this holding true for batteries, however, with alternators- no.

An alternator consistantly supplies power while the engine is running, meaning that there is always power available.

There are some alternator Voltage regulators that will not react as quickly as most do today-however, I would certainly not classify a fraction of a second as slow. So long as there is sufficient power to begin with, this should not be an issue.

Only when you require more than the charging system was designed for will you notice any "lack of response." This is because the alternator can not keep up with the power demands. Adding a cap that will "alleviate" this strain for a matter of a second or two will still not solve the problem. Once the cap is out, it too has to wait for the alternator to respond. Makes caps pretty useless, that is - unless you have a whole truckload of them behind you to make sure that the alternator does not get over burdened.

With this in mind- why bother with a cap when the problem can be taken care of at the source?

 
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