Cant get my JL amp to turn on

NICE imtjnotu..That will work as well,and that has already been established.Yet,Since the amp it out of the vehicle, rather than installing it and testing it, that simple test at the battery will be an easy way to tell if the amp will power up properly, and will determine that the remote wiring within the original application is the issue or not,If so,it:D needs to be rewired properly.Takes ten min to do, and without a dmm.

 
NICE imtjnotu..That will work as well,and that has already been established.Yet,Since the amp it out of the vehicle, rather than installing it and testing it, that simple test at the battery will be an easy way to tell if the amp will power up properly, and will determine that the remote wiring within the original application is the issue or not,If so,it:D needs to be rewired properly.Takes ten min to do, and without a dmm.
haha i didnt read over this whole thread sorry if it was stated
 
You spelt it wrong jack ***! Audiobaun i refer to is auto/speed/racing! Audiobahn is the car audio equiptment dumb a s s ..Have another beer.Your amp is more than my whole system??That pos Rockford Fosgate??One 12 inc sub??one set of 2way comp,and a pair of 6x9???Please man,go Fu urself with your moms used *****,I have 2 amps that cost 1k a piece.Doesnt matter how much you spend on an amp, it how you choose the right components for the system.I can gaurantee you are not getting anywhere near the 2500rms that pos Rockford suppossively puts out with that honda alternator, and not at 14v either..LOL!!Im at 14.4 allday everyday every note, with my little 7150 Autoteks(2)BTS-150watt amps on 4-1000 rms 10s.Momma buy bye your ****?? I earned mine,I choose whatever amp I want to run in my pile of Zed collection..Get a job!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
you dingle berry i didnt even bother reading what you wrote for the op so you may have said something good, most of the time you give bad advise. i bought all that main stuff for my sq set up with my jl 500/1 and jl 300/4. im buying my new car and upgrading everything ****. im on the look for a new subs/ sub that can take this beast. so before you think my shits out of wack yes it is. im buying new stuff as i just got the rf **** for christmas. i do have a job aslo and i have enough to buy your whole collection and burn it right in your face. just wait till i get my car done from getting painted and order the new pieces. ps i do have a h.o. alt ****

 
I can certainly send you a bill, for 30 plus amps:laugh: not being used.If you are giong for sound quality, and you have MONEY, why not go with some of the best on the market as to say the BRAX Tube amp line up??? Old school Zed made amps were , and are some of the cleanist SQ amps of all time along with power rather than todays Jap/China made overated crap.JL makes fairly decent amps, ill give them that,but you need the juice to run them, which is why having to upgrade the electrical just to achieve the true rms out of the new amps is a real money pit within todays audio world, as old school its not needed most applications.All the methods I relate upon, I have done, and used.Most are simple, and cost effective,as I grew up poor, and learned on my own trial and error,as we did not have this forum for information, and others did not know, as the car audio world was new, and becoming what it is today.Things that are known today , are due to my generation of experience of what worked, and works, and what did not, and does not, in which has saved people alot of money, and confussion,along with the components.I mean,why go out and spend $15-20 on a DMM for somthing as simple as this here, that Joe prob doesnt have the money for due to the trashed economy,or lives 3hrs from a walmart that may not be open by time he gets there,and may need that money for gas to get to work next week?Ive been there, and thats why , as crazy as those may think my methods are, they havent tried it, or have never experienced it,afraid to try something thats is simple, and find out that it actually works?My advice is given as others, and it is only up to those to make the decision to use which method/solution given.I began car audio when they were fading out Equalizers, and bringing in the amplifiers, sych as Realistics, Protons,Kraco,Pyramids ect,then came the race for the power/best /sq/ect error.Ive been there,and am still here,so dont trash my methods until you try for yourselves.We learned the hard way..no HELP, and alot of expense that we have built up to today to save time, error, and,and your hard earned money;) You all can thank Rockford Fosgate for shutting the real car audio world down for the Practice Safe Sound act,is the reason why i wont put theyre trash in any of my vehicles!! Thanks Rockford!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/bsflag.gif.21f42eccd34b7d1eb1608fb1b59b69c3.gif

 
I appreciate the help, but can you guys keep it to your private messages, thanks //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Anyways back to topic I took some pictures today

_MG_8624.jpg


DCV 250 & 1000

_MG_8628.jpg


DCV 50

_MG_8629.jpg


DCV 10

_MG_8630.jpg


DCV 2.5

_MG_8631.jpg


DCV .25

_MG_8632.jpg


 
Look like you have juice.Whats going on with the flattened out remote wire in the background? I dont see the wire stripped for the exposed wire needed for the connection.Did you take and try the jumper wire yet?

 
Remote wire

_MG_8633.jpg


DCV 250&1000 OR 50 I dont remember.

_MG_8634.jpg


_MG_8638.jpg


_MG_8641.jpg


It seems like my remote wire is getting power no problem. My friend hasn't returned the amp yet so I cant do any of those test you guys recommended me just yet. I'll keep you guys updated.

Didn't get to finish posting :p

 
Just take that amp to the car battery before you put it back in, and run the jumper from the remote to the power, and touch the poss on the battery, and ground to ground to the battery, and if it lights up, the amp should be ok for powering up and ready for SOUND TESTING, IF NOT , THEN THERE IS AN INTERNAL ISSUE WITH THAT AMP.EASY TO TEST.ALL I CAN RECOMMEND TO YOU AT THIS POINT.GOOD LUCK TO YOU, AND HOPE THAT ITS JUST THAT NON EXPOSED REMOTE WIRE.

 
i DONT RECOMMEND RUNNING THAT 14 GA WIRE TO A 30AMP FUSE OUTLET,ID RUN IT TO THE RADIO OR SIG, SO THAT THAT WIRE DOESNT GET TOO HOT AND BURN UP/CATCH FIRE.TOO MANY AMPS FOR THAT SMALL WIRE,IMO, YET LOOKS ;LIKE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF POWER

 
Amp works just fine. Turns out to be the fuse //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rage.gif.0ad8a6e5565b5fddce406566fdd05149.gif I tested it at the battery, the line before the fuse was getting power and the line after wasn't. So I rushed over to radio shack and bought a pair of fuses and lo and be hold it works.

What is annoying is that the fuse itself isn't broken. But as I looked deeper into the corners i see a little corrosion. So stupid. Wasted a day trouble shooting it to find out it was just a fuse.

Thanks guys for the support

 
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