Can someone give this a once over?

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I may add more things later and have seen a lot of people saying that 2 or 3 things being turned on from the remote wire can short it out.

Like I said, we busted this myth a few weeks ago here. It would take 8-10 amplifiers being turned on to = the current that your relay is drawing. If you're not trying to power up fans or lights or things that have a real current draw the relay is just added complexity and something else that can go wrong.

If you already have the speakers for the rear go for it, but in testing here I don't notice much difference with mine playing or not.

 

[jt4x4]

Thought about that

I have too much other stuff I carry in my truck to have a sub enclosure and needed something low profile under the seat so the kicker fit nicely. The guy who TRIED to insult me had his own description after his name that suits him to a "T". The relay is a 12V 5 pin spdt Bosch style. Those things make sense Thanks!

At least look up Thunderform enclosures. They fit under the seat.

 

[Flungcow]

Like I said, we busted this myth a few weeks ago here. It would take 8-10 amplifiers being turned on to = the current that your relay is drawing. If you're not trying to power up fans or lights or things that have a real current draw the relay is just added complexity and something else that can go wrong.

If you already have the speakers for the rear go for it, but in testing here I don't notice much difference with mine playing or not.

Ok, I'll forget about the relay for now thanks

 

[Lasherž]

Looks good to me minus the signal wire circuit which I feel is completely arbitrary.

2A fuse I don't think is necessary on the remote wire because it won't even put out 2A for long enough if it shorted before damaging the unit. I think the only real reason for it is to protect a cross between the signal wire and the positive cable on the amp terminal from crossing and then shorting. That's not really a realistic scenario and it would probably blow the few wire strands that touch rather than the fuse anyways. Every other scenario would ruin the radio before it harmed the wire. Also Hispls is correct about the relay being pointless. It uses far more power than the amps do. From the thread I believe he was referencing:

This was interesting to me and I had a spare RF Punch P1000X5 laying around to test it on.

View attachment 22571
View attachment 22570
View attachment 22572

As you can see, the 5 channel amplifier used 17mA off the remote wire. That's nothing compared to your relay.
A standard low-power relay:

https://b2b-api.panasonic.eu/file_stream/pids/fileversion/350
Note that the rated operating current is higher on all 12V models, starting at 117mA.

So the final amount of amps you could load on one HU is about 9 if they all pull at once to the remote circuit or a few more if you assume it won't blow instantly from double power which is a pretty safe assumption, but definitely not 18-30 depending on your HU

In other words the relay only adds up to any benefit if you've got too many amps to even realistically put in a truck cab (over 6), otherwise it's a waste of power and adds another point of failure.


I don't think there's a particularly good reason to run a ground cable to the battery, your chassis should be good for such low power unless you're trying to avoid scraping under a bolt or something. It could lower your resistance, but chassis makes for a pretty low resistance as it is and can move a few hundred amps no problem so long as you've done a big 3 upgrade.

Use the manufacturer recommended fuses in your manuals for the amps. Add the two amp fuse ratings together to get the fuse value on the battery before the distribution box.

 

[Flungcow]

Like I said, we busted this myth a few weeks ago here. It would take 8-10 amplifiers being turned on to = the current that your relay is drawing. If you're not trying to power up fans or lights or things that have a real current draw the relay is just added complexity and something else that can go wrong.

If you already have the speakers for the rear go for it, but in testing here I don't notice much difference with mine playing or not.

Ok, you guys convinced me, the relay is out.

 

[Flungcow]

At least look up Thunderform enclosures. They fit under the seat.

I will look them up thanks. I still have the subwoofer channel from the Alpine amplifier that I can use as well maybe in the future

 

[Flungcow]

Looks good to me minus the signal wire circuit which I feel is completely arbitrary.

2A fuse I don't think is necessary on the remote wire because it won't even put out 2A for long enough if it shorted before damaging the unit. I think the only real reason for it is to protect a cross between the signal wire and the positive cable on the amp terminal from crossing and then shorting. That's not really a realistic scenario and it would probably blow the few wire strands that touch rather than the fuse anyways. Every other scenario would ruin the radio before it harmed the wire. Also Hispls is correct about the relay being pointless. It uses far more power than the amps do. From the thread I believe he was referencing:


As you can see, the 5 channel amplifier used 17mA off the remote wire. That's nothing compared to your relay.
A standard low-power relay:


In other words the relay only adds up to any benefit if you've got too many amps to even realistically put in a truck cab (over 6), otherwise it's a waste of power and adds another point of failure.


I don't think there's a particularly good reason to run a ground cable to the battery, your chassis should be good for such low power unless you're trying to avoid scraping under a bolt or something. It could lower your resistance, but chassis makes for a pretty low resistance as it is and can move a few hundred amps no problem so long as you've done a big 3 upgrade.

Use the manufacturer recommended fuses in your manuals for the amps. Add the two amp fuse ratings together to get the fuse value on the battery before the distribution box.

Got it. Not putting in the relay thanks.

 

[Flungcow]

Thanks everyone. I am not putting in the relay (so I wont need the 16 guage wire from the battery) or the ground block and will ground the amplifier and the sub to separate points on the chassis.