Calling BS on "breaking in" subwoofers, prove me wrong.

@hispls
Dude, get off his nuts (electrodynamics). He didn't post any real data like all the others in this thread. I'm not saying I disagree with him but you seem to be eating his words and making them as data when its just words.
How are the multiple T/S samples I provided not real data? I provided Paul Roth's three different T/S pulls (hot, cold, and fresh out of the box) and also my two different T/S pulls that even included different ambient temperatures on a woofer I've had in my possession for over 6 months.

 
Well I would suggest running your tests on something with an extremely stiff suspension because as I believe that is where you will see the most change. The Paul Roth test states explicitly that the suspension is soft making it useless in this debate.
Good point, and the other tests I've seen are for more "normal" suspension drivers as well..

The sub I have in mind that I can do the second measurement for this weekend is 2 TC 10" spiders which are relatively soft to begin with. I'm getting some new spiders for the subs I'm building up this weekend but I don't plan to build them too terribly stiff, so IDK if that'll show much either.

 
thread is pointless, OP go do your testing and come back with the data/results. Also figure out how said info will be of any use to the average enthusiast...

Take it you've blown a few HDC's as you seem to have some hate for them

 
I mean, I have run countless setups over the last 12 years. The 2 setups where I can say I noticed a difference with break in, was my HDC3s, and my 9512s. Other then that, I really never heard any change ever. I do not have Termlab results to back it up, but I feel like if I can hear the difference, there must be some.

 
I know the Kicker Solo-X/L5/L7's manual states that suspension break-ins are required for them. We gave my friend's Solo-X full power on day one and it hasn't had any problems.

As a subwoofer gets worn in the suspension will loosen up and takes less power to reach full excursion. Had experience first-hand with this because my old Pioneer Premier TS-W2000SPL never bottomed out when I ran it with a Crossfire CFA1000D, after two years I took them into my house to use them with my home theater and my "100 watt per channel" Technics SU-V8X bottomed them out in the same box with the same music.

I break-in my subs free-air with 20Hz and volume up to when the subs are moving an inch and a half because it is a good time to check for any mechanical noises/abnormalities.

 
thread is pointless, OP go do your testing and come back with the data/results. Also figure out how said info will be of any use to the average enthusiast...
Take it you've blown a few HDC's as you seem to have some hate for them
Every day new threads come up with "sounds good now and they haven't even broken in yet" "Wait till those break in, they'll sound even better", or "used a few weeks, barely even broken in yet". Seems like the "average enthusiast" throws around the term enough to merrit a little investigation. I thought creating this thread might add more data than I can come up with by myself and help shed some light on the subject whether or not there is any validity to the theory. Search the terms "break them in" "break it in", "broken in", etc. If this is ALL good info with any facts to back it up why no data?

Haven't blown or used any AQ subs yet, just seen a lot of threads come up with that particular failure and that explanation. I'm sure they're good but obviously they have some QC issues. I do take exception to a company that makes some bullshit excuse for their product's failures...how about just saying "yeah we use really cheap labor and that's why you get so much speaker for the price, we expect a high failure rate, we're sorry, recone is on the way".

IMHO Noobs need to be educated so that they

1. don't throw around the term so much, and spread misinformation

2. aren't conned by manufacturers blaming "break in" or lack thereof on shoddy workmanship.

OR if there is merit to this, FS of your speaker system changing over 10% over time is significant enough to consider in the build of an average enthusiast. The difference between 40hz and 35hz tuning is NOTICEABLE and if "break in" is capable of such changes it's worth knowing about.

 
We recommend to allow at least several weeks of playing time to break in DD Woofers, full break in may take many months. DO NOT play subwoofers at max amplifier power in the first couple of days, give the suspensions a chance to loosen up. As the suspension breaks in, the subs will play lower and louder.

Directly from DD website regarding the 9500 series woofers. People may question the build quality of AQ, but I hardly think people can judge the quality of DD (the price is a whole other story).

 
Oh, so the OP disregarded my post. You know, the post that ends this discussion.
ITT: OP's an idiot, and everyone tells him he's an idiot, but he keeps on being an idiot.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I didn't. Very useful info. Good post

 
This thread should be locked //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Just play your damn speakers. The only brands that need "correct" breaking in are DD and AQ. I've owned both, never "lightly" broke them in, played them on rated power, worked out just fine. For every other woofer, just play it.

 
Every day new threads come up with "sounds good now and they haven't even broken in yet" "Wait till those break in, they'll sound even better", or "used a few weeks, barely even broken in yet". Seems like the "average enthusiast" throws around the term enough to merrit a little investigation. I thought creating this thread might add more data than I can come up with by myself and help shed some light on the subject whether or not there is any validity to the theory. Search the terms "break them in" "break it in", "broken in", etc. If this is ALL good info with any facts to back it up why no data?
Haven't blown or used any AQ subs yet, just seen a lot of threads come up with that particular failure and that explanation. I'm sure they're good but obviously they have some QC issues. I do take exception to a company that makes some bullshit excuse for their product's failures...how about just saying "yeah we use really cheap labor and that's why you get so much speaker for the price, we expect a high failure rate, we're sorry, recone is on the way".

IMHO Noobs need to be educated so that they

1. don't throw around the term so much, and spread misinformation

2. aren't conned by manufacturers blaming "break in" or lack thereof on shoddy workmanship.

OR if there is merit to this, FS of your speaker system changing over 10% over time is significant enough to consider in the build of an average enthusiast. The difference between 40hz and 35hz tuning is NOTICEABLE and if "break in" is capable of such changes it's worth knowing about.
This site is a ridiculous place to come for good info.. 90% or more on here think they know what they are talking about from having read something on thisforum probably posted by someone who dont need **** either.. for someone to say their setup wiill be soo much better once its broke in is ridiculous ... on another note.. wtf is the purpose for this thread.. judging by soe of the posts you made you are an idiot.,. get off your lazy *** and go look **** up yourself.. you want numbers you got numbers and still bitching about something else.. stop crying for handouts and go find out for yourself

 
Obviously the speakers will sound good even as soon as you buy them, but he was trying to see if "breaking in" was real. It IS real, and it HAS BEEN for years. There's a break in/burn in period for headphones as well. That, I've witnessed firsthand, although I didn't have the numbers to prove it.

It's not even a hard concept. It's apparent that the components must loosen up and settle appropriately. Also, I've noticed that some companies show T/S parameters before, after, and throughout the break in period. I don't remember where, though.

 
It depends on what the drivers soft parts, and more importantly the suspension, is made of. For instance, drivers with a rubber surround will have larger changes in Cms during hot and cold weather than drivers with a foam surround. I've measured a change in Fs from 34 Hz fresh out of the box to 29 Hz after 6 months of a thorough break in and also being outside in a hot vehicle on our 15" Obsidian subwoofer.
Even though Paul's test did not show this, when a speaker is played for a while the voice coil temperature increases which increases Re. The rise in Re means you are actually getting less power into the speaker. So if you're getting ready to go into the SPL lanes by all means do not demo your car to other people.
were you on the caraudioforum.com forums or elitecaraudio forums back in the day? i recall your user ID and its not from here, and i think prior to the 2k3 registration... I'm thinking 1999-2k1. good info as well everyone.

 
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