Cadillac CTS Custom Trunk Job By A Very Inexperienced Novice.

I'm planning on doing some custom work in my trunk (custom is a very exotic word for me, as you'll see LOL). EVERYONE I know, in my town (very small), has a system that consists of, a.) H/U, b.) 2 12's (RF, Pioneer, etc.), an overprice amp from a local shop, c.) a prefab box probably bought from 'the dude down the street'. Nothing special. Nothing fancy...nothing...nice.

I wanted to make mine different. Problem? I've never worked with wood, built anything, wired all this stuff, etc. Hook up an amp? Sure. I can do that. Wire it from front to back? NEVER. Thankfully, it's wired. I recently purchased an enclosure that was very well built (designed for 2 audioque hdc3's). I'd like to build an amp rack, build a new floor, and...I'm not sure how to say this, build a 'face' for the enclosure, so it looks like it's flush with the vehicle, not just a box tossed in the trunk. Sorry if I'm not making sense; it's hard to explain when you're a novice. LOL

Anyways, I had planned on carpeting it all, so it matched the trunk. Then, I thought...why not paint everything? Then I thought it might look cheap. I don't want a ****** looking trunk. I want to make it look nice and classy. It is a Cadillac. BUT...I will be doing it all by myself. LOL it's scary. I think the carpet would look nicer.

OH! The reason for the new floor. In the back, or front, or whatever you'd call it, of my trunk. Right behind the seats. Coming out from the seats towards the trunk lid, after about 1 1/2 feet, it slants DOWN, and will cause my box to tilt down, pointing the speakers down very slightly. Minor detail, but I want it to look right. Ideas on types of wood for this?

So, in other words, I want to make it look professional, without PAYING the professional, because I really want to try to do this. I've always wanted to do something like this, and I feel I might as well give it a shot.

So. ANY suggestions/advice would be appreciated. If anyone has any spare time to consult with me, I would appreciate it very much.

Thanks for reading.

 
Here's the pictures of the enclosure I will be using. I will use 2 12" XFL's (Thanks, Jim), and plan on purchasing an American Bass vfl 4480 (Thanks, Jim lol).

box specs

34in width

16in higdth

25in depth

5in port

tuned to 34hrz

3.5 quft air space

135 sqin port space

box is fiberglassed inside and out

4 bolt terminals with 8gauge speaker wire

dual baffel to prefent box flex

bondo and painted faceplate

 
Use car board to make a template of the curved areas you are gonna need to cut once you get the cardboard cut right just place it on the wood and transfer the design then take a jigsaw and cut it out take your time.

The floor might need to be leveled out with some 1x4 or 2x4 but it's pretty much the same except it will have to be 2pieces maybe 3 depending on the trunk.

Amp mounting can be easy or complicated one method when you wall off the box I. The trunk of the car space it off the box a few inches then drill holes for your wires and mount the amp on the wall with the wires hidden from the trunk the only thing visible would be the amp. Or if you space the wall out enough you can mount the amp on the inside cut out a window on the bottom take the back plate off and display the guts of the amp. Plexi will protect against dust but a little computer spray is often cheaper than a plexi window

 
Use car board to make a template of the curved areas you are gonna need to cut once you get the cardboard cut right just place it on the wood and transfer the design then take a jigsaw and cut it out take your time.
The floor might need to be leveled out with some 1x4 or 2x4 but it's pretty much the same except it will have to be 2pieces maybe 3 depending on the trunk.

Amp mounting can be easy or complicated one method when you wall off the box I. The trunk of the car space it off the box a few inches then drill holes for your wires and mount the amp on the wall with the wires hidden from the trunk the only thing visible would be the amp. Or if you space the wall out enough you can mount the amp on the inside cut out a window on the bottom take the back plate off and display the guts of the amp. Plexi will protect against dust but a little computer spray is often cheaper than a plexi window
Thank you for your input. I was thinking of going with a plexi window. What I'll do is take some pictures of the trunk when I get home, and when I get the box in, also.

My battery is located in the trunk in this vehicle, on the passenger side, all the way towards the rear of the car (on the other side of the tail light). I plan on upgrading the battery and building a wall there, also. Right now, you access it by removing a little cover that is attached with Velcro strips (factory). I thought I could use plexi there, also.

Thank you again.

 
Plexi is fine one thing to remember is to leave room for your carpet if you make the panels to tight after you carpet them they won't fit together right.

Are u going to fire the subs into the cabin or at the trunk. Because if you are firing at the trunk, on you false wall panels cut some opening and just cover them with the carpet. This lets the bass that reflects off the trunk transfer into the passenger cabin.

A good pic of the box in the car will help to determine how your wall will be made ideally the wall stops inside the trunk so you don't see the top when you pop the trunk, but if the box is too long you wall ideal may not work as well as expected.

With that box, those subs, and that amp you should be louder than most name brand systems in your area. I only say most because some guys know audio well enough to make crap hit like hell. But common systems should be shut out easily.

Since you battery is in the trunk check the gauge wiring it has. It should be 2gauge or a lil bigger. Add a bigger ground wire to the battery that goes to the frame of the car and a bigger wire for engine to car. This upgrade usually helps quite a bit when running higher amounts of power.

Make sure all ground locations are metal to metal sand paint off. Some basic paint primer will keep the frame from rusting in the excess area just tape off surrounding areas before spraying inside a car.

Feel free to ask me if you have any questions

 
Plexi is fine one thing to remember is to leave room for your carpet if you make the panels to tight after you carpet them they won't fit together right.
Are u going to fire the subs into the cabin or at the trunk. Because if you are firing at the trunk, on you false wall panels cut some opening and just cover them with the carpet. This lets the bass that reflects off the trunk transfer into the passenger cabin.

A good pic of the box in the car will help to determine how your wall will be made ideally the wall stops inside the trunk so you don't see the top when you pop the trunk, but if the box is too long you wall ideal may not work as well as expected.

With that box, those subs, and that amp you should be louder than most name brand systems in your area. I only say most because some guys know audio well enough to make crap hit like hell. But common systems should be shut out easily.

Since you battery is in the trunk check the gauge wiring it has. It should be 2gauge or a lil bigger. Add a bigger ground wire to the battery that goes to the frame of the car and a bigger wire for engine to car. This upgrade usually helps quite a bit when running higher amounts of power.

Make sure all ground locations are metal to metal sand paint off. Some basic paint primer will keep the frame from rusting in the excess area just tape off surrounding areas before spraying inside a car.

Feel free to ask me if you have any questions
Wow. Thanks.

I plan on firing the subs into the trunk. I've been measuring as best as I can without the box on hand right now. The guy holding it for me is 3 hours away, and I've been too busy to go pick it up. LOL

As far as the box goes, I'm going to be VERY close to the trunk opening, up top. I don't want the top of the box showing, and the side panels. I've seen some like that (top of side panels) and it's not what I'm looking for. If I can't do the sides, with the amp mounted there, I may do it flush into the floor.

Listen to me; I can barely hammer a nail straight, and I'm planning all this stuff. LOL I'm not that bad; I know I can do a good (maybe not professional) job if I take my time. Time is my problem, though; I get too impatient. But I'll be able to take plenty of time on this.

Thanks.

 
I think you're quite a bit off on the port area you think you have.
Actually, I don't ''think'' I have anything. The installer who built the box supplied those dimensions. Could you help me to understand why this may be good/bad? Thanks.

 
Like you said just take your time mdf is $33 a sheet it's not that costly so mess ups aren't a real big deal get a friend to help u
Thanks.

Another question. When I build this new floor, what would be the best way to secure my box? It's big and heavy without the subs; I don't want it moving around at all. Do I attach the box to the floor with any kind of brackets? Or just screw to floor?

I assume this last part was laughable to some, but I have no idea. LOL Thank you.

 
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