- Thread Starter
- #31
No but the amp for my fronts is off the same wire and has never gone into protect, so I don't think its causing any problems
audioarsonal
10+ year member
JaMarcus
That may be some of your problem.You are running multiple components of that one wire.And its only made to supply like 3-5 amps.Some amps can be fussy if the voltage on the remote wire drops low and this voltage could differ from the actual voltage you get on the power wire.
Just check it and see if it may be dropping below the 12.5v you are seeing on the meter.
Just check it and see if it may be dropping below the 12.5v you are seeing on the meter.
DidUHearThat?
10+ year member
Precious Bodily Fluids
Unless you see burn spots or obvious cracks, that all looks normal. Nice pics btw.
What are the drivers? What 4 ohm and what 8 ohm? Set your gains correctly with a meter and test disk to be sure your not overdriving the inputs.
Amps go into protect for several reasons, depending on how they were designed. Check your manual (or look it up online if you don't have one). They may list all the reasons your particular amp will go into protect mode.
These are some of the reasons;
-Over driving the inputs
-Incorrect ohm load
-Overdriving the output
-Overheat
-Incorrect power voltage
-Short on the input or output
If you continuously drive a speaker or amplifier to distortion, this can cause a dead short within the driver, shorting out the amplifier. So if the wattage at this full clip is not enough to damage the speaker, it can still short out the amplifier.
In full clip, the speakers motor recieves DC signal, instead of AC. Normally the motor moves back and forth (alternating current). With DC your locking the motor to one side for extended periods of time. Causing a short that could cause amplifier failure.
I don't know if this is your problem, but this is another reason to set your gains correctly and not overdrive your gear beyond it's rated limits.
What are the drivers? What 4 ohm and what 8 ohm? Set your gains correctly with a meter and test disk to be sure your not overdriving the inputs.
Amps go into protect for several reasons, depending on how they were designed. Check your manual (or look it up online if you don't have one). They may list all the reasons your particular amp will go into protect mode.
These are some of the reasons;
-Over driving the inputs
-Incorrect ohm load
-Overdriving the output
-Overheat
-Incorrect power voltage
-Short on the input or output
If you continuously drive a speaker or amplifier to distortion, this can cause a dead short within the driver, shorting out the amplifier. So if the wattage at this full clip is not enough to damage the speaker, it can still short out the amplifier.
In full clip, the speakers motor recieves DC signal, instead of AC. Normally the motor moves back and forth (alternating current). With DC your locking the motor to one side for extended periods of time. Causing a short that could cause amplifier failure.
I don't know if this is your problem, but this is another reason to set your gains correctly and not overdrive your gear beyond it's rated limits.
DidUHearThat?
10+ year member
Precious Bodily Fluids
FYI, when mixing ohm loads the drivers will not recieve equal amounts of power. In your case the 4 ohm is getting about 850 watts, and the 8 ohm is getting about 425 watts, for a total of 1275 watts.
If the 4 ohm is not capable of handling that amount of current or if you clip the amplifer trying to give that driver more current, you could cause a short in the amplifer, sending it into protect mode.
Or the amplifier is simply damaged due to repeated abuse and misuse, by you or the previous owner.
If the 4 ohm is not capable of handling that amount of current or if you clip the amplifer trying to give that driver more current, you could cause a short in the amplifer, sending it into protect mode.
Or the amplifier is simply damaged due to repeated abuse and misuse, by you or the previous owner.
DidUHearThat?
10+ year member
Precious Bodily Fluids
The maximum votage that amp is capable of is about 58 volts (@ 2.67 ohm), with an input voltage of 14.4 volts (from a 0db signal).
- Thread Starter
- #37
I had an 8 ohm MJ, bought a new MJ 18M, and already built a box for two. I didn't have the money to get two new MJ's yet so I just hooked up the old one with the new one, but I'm ordering another new one soon (hopefully this week).
Alright I'll go check it, problem is also that it doesn't always go into protect, so in order to really see I'd have to sit there blasting my subs for 20-30mins watching that wire, and chances are I wouldn't even actually see what its really at when/if it goes into protect. I'll try and see anyway
I'm not pushing the amplifier to the point where it clips, and gains were set with a DMM. It doesn't sound distorted at all really that I can tell.
Also, I mentioned this before, but I used to push the amp alot harder than I am right now, when I had just the single MJ, even to the point where it clipped a little bit sometimes, and I never once had it go into protect, so I don't think that purely pushing it is causing it to protect.
On a side note, I put the amp back together and reinstalled it, and played with it for a good 40 mins this morning and it didn't go into protect once, and I was doing a lot of test-toning too. That's the other wierd thing about this though, is the way sometimes it will start to go into protect every 5-15mins, and othertimes it will randomly last a good hour or two or more before it does.
- Thread Starter
- #38
Yea I know, I was figuring that, the 4 ohm is rated at 700 and I'm told by mark at mach 5 it should be fine under 900 as long as its not heating up much (which it isn't).
Well Idk if you've tested it or anything, but if its clipping, its just barely clipping, and inaudible, It stays solid at around 60 volts on 45hz at where I have the gains set, which obviously isn't unreasonable considering your calculation of 58 volts
- Thread Starter
- #40
I meant as far as percentage of what it can do at a given impedence, for example, if an amp does 1000 at 1 ohm, and 500 at 2 ohms, and you're pushing 500 watts either way, you're pushing the amp harder (closer to its limits) at 2 ohms. Or at least thats just the way I think about it. Granted efficiency usually drops at lower impedences though
DidUHearThat?
10+ year member
Precious Bodily Fluids
Maybe you just had a loose electrical or speaker connection.
- Thread Starter
- #42
Thats what I thought so I reconnected all the wires like twice to begin with, and then once again obviously after I put the amp back together. We'll see, because its lasted longer than this before and then started going into protect again
- Thread Starter
- #43
And..yup...today after a total of around 2 and a half hours, it goes into protect again, still no heat, I restart it, play another 2-3mins and it protects again, and now it keeps on doin it every 5-10mins ish..need some advice, all wires have been checked and rechecked and rewired multiple times, heat is minimal, amp works perfectly fine when not in protect, and can be restarted and work fine right off the bat
ascendantsubs1
Banned
Check hom loads on subs to make sure nothing came loose (coil burnt, broken)
- Thread Starter
- #45
Been checkin consistantly cuz for some reason I'm worried about them, they read fine 7.4 and 3.2, and together read 2.4
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