Box Building Tips Thread

[99grandprixGT 5,000+ posts]

Truth, I just got done building a 4.5' long box with 4 clamps

ya i could of used more as well, i only had 4 clamps. but i put the weights in the corner of my garage to good use.

 

[Goldtaz1 10+ year member]

My advice is very simple. DO NOT USE THE PREDRILL and SCREW METHOD. Far too much time is wasted. Invest in a brad nailer that is capable of shooting brad nails up to 1 1/2" long and a fairly decent air compressor. It's always funny when people come over to my house and see the simple setup that helps me bring the wang. I have a craftsman compressor that cost $100 and a brad nailer from Harbor Freight that cost $35. I challenge anyone to say I'm wrong because in the end it's all about the glue that you use and the pressure applied to the joint.

 

[schrummy 10+ year member]

take your time. slow down and breath. the slower you go the faster you will get done

 

[AlpineUser 10+ year member]

i have been using liquid nails for glue...it works like a champ and if i dont have that i use whatever tightbond i have in my house

 

[FASTIMES 10+ year member]

Router with jasper jig and spiral upcutting or double fluted straight cutting bits for sub and speaker terminal holes.
1-5/8" coarse thread drywall screws, 3/32" predrill bit with countersink

If painting the port tape off areas that will be bonded to other wood or carpet.

.....X2...I also recommend cutting ALL of your pieces first...then assemble.

 

[BallinByNature 10+ year member]

.....X2...I also recommend cutting ALL of your pieces first...then assemble.

x2

 

[psych0ticnemes1 5,000+ posts]

.....X2...I also recommend cutting ALL of your pieces first...then assemble.

Sometimes, if you're inexperienced, if you're off by a 1/8 or so by the end of the project it can be safe to wait to cut your last piece. More often than not a trim bit will take care of this problem though.

 

[bjfish11 5,000+ posts]

My advice is very simple. DO NOT USE THE PREDRILL and SCREW METHOD. Far too much time is wasted. Invest in a brad nailer that is capable of shooting brad nails up to 1 1/2" long and a fairly decent air compressor. It's always funny when people come over to my house and see the simple setup that helps me bring the wang. I have a craftsman compressor that cost $100 and a brad nailer from Harbor Freight that cost $35. I challenge anyone to say I'm wrong because in the end it's all about the glue that you use and the pressure applied to the joint.

I agree with you on the part about glue being the strength of the joint. However, I have expressed my .02 on brad nails vs. scrwes before... and Ill stick with screws //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[mr.michael 10+ year member]

2/16 = 1/8
Just thought i would point that out for absolutely no reason.

lol fo sho

 

[DonH 5,000+ posts]

Router with jasper jig and spiral upcutting or double fluted straight cutting bits for sub and speaker terminal holes.
1-5/8" coarse thread drywall screws, 3/32" predrill bit with countersink

If painting the port tape off areas that will be bonded to other wood or carpet.

ALL A MUST! you dont need a router if money is tight. if you have a jigsaw you can get pretty handy with one. ive gotten pretty good freehand with my jigsaw skills.

 

[thorshammer1 10+ year member]

My advice is very simple. DO NOT USE THE PREDRILL and SCREW METHOD. Far too much time is wasted. Invest in a brad nailer that is capable of shooting brad nails up to 1 1/2" long and a fairly decent air compressor. It's always funny when people come over to my house and see the simple setup that helps me bring the wang. I have a craftsman compressor that cost $100 and a brad nailer from Harbor Freight that cost $35. I challenge anyone to say I'm wrong because in the end it's all about the glue that you use and the pressure applied to the joint.

Agreed. I only learned about using a nailer to help recently. Also makes up for not having a lot of clamps. My current box has titebond II, brads and pre drilled screws.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

Also recently learned was taking a piece of wood and outline the edges to show you where to nail and screw. Very handy.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[gotparts90 10+ year member]

My advice is very simple. DO NOT USE THE PREDRILL and SCREW METHOD. Far too much time is wasted. Invest in a brad nailer that is capable of shooting brad nails up to 1 1/2" long and a fairly decent air compressor. It's always funny when people come over to my house and see the simple setup that helps me bring the wang. I have a craftsman compressor that cost $100 and a brad nailer from Harbor Freight that cost $35. I challenge anyone to say I'm wrong because in the end it's all about the glue that you use and the pressure applied to the joint.

true on that brads = faster. I still like screws in birch those ends just don't glue as well as mdf. Mdf loves the titebond and really any good glue except liquid nails. I have been using a bunch on loctite 9887 grey RTV lately for sealing boxes I got for free from my friends trike shop. They got the wrong kind so I got 200+ tubes for free its worth 17 a tube. otherwise some ghetto sealant is fine but only MMM glue is good for carpet.

 

[uGotF-ckedUp 10+ year member]

i always glue, clamp, use 1 1/2" staples instead of brads (they hold more) then screw it. haha strong as f*ck =]

 

[Goldtaz1 10+ year member]

I agree with you on the part about glue being the strength of the joint. However, I have expressed my .02 on brad nails vs. scrwes before... and Ill stick with screws //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

I would love to hear the enlighted explanation. I've never seen an accurate comparison before //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

When i assemble my box together, gotta have plenty of all sorts of clamps- clamps, L clamps, furniture clamps, they all come in handy.

I use Titebond II\III as the adhesive glue, then i use Liquid Nails as a bracer\sealer inside the box on all corners\adjacent pieces then I finish that off with silicone along the same areas as the Liquid nails.

A Good Tip-

If you get a lot of Liquid Nails on our fingers because you spread it with your finger, spread silicone with your finger too, //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif silicone mixed with LN will get it off your fingers in no time.

Also, if building a smaller box, i use 6" L brackets every 12in on all 6 sides of box if necessary to maintain strong structure where 2 pieces meet. The 6" L brackets have a 10-12" structural strength radius before it looses effectiveness.

If building a large box, bracing with 3\4" All-thread with 1\8" Steel runs from point to point will give outstanding bracing strength. Finish the All-Thread off by welding ALL cross sections inside the box. I always glue the steel as well to make sure that all areas between point A and point B are connected with the steel.