Blew out a JL 12w7 first day of purchase with a JL 1000/1 amp...how did this happen?

[thaster 10+ year member]

which shop you went to in philly?

 

[rc10mike 10+ year member]

What

 

[Lil Poot 5,000+ posts]

What

yeah!

 

[w00tah 10+ year member]

Am I the only one in this thread that questions the integrity of ANY shop who installs a 1000/1 with 4 gauge wire?

Check to see if the amp inputs are set for High level.

Kef

 

[rc10mike 10+ year member]

Am I the only one in this thread that questions the integrity of ANY shop who installs a 1000/1 with 4 gauge wire?

Check to see if the amp inputs are set for High level.

Kef

JL says you must use 4awg, anything bigger will fry the subs.

 

[Asystole 10+ year member]

JL says you must use 4awg, anything bigger will fry the subs.

Are you retarded?

 

[swangin68 10+ year member]

Just read most of this thread. First off if a sub blows that quick and easy off the gain being a lil high, that's just not quality product. And u don't need a tutorial how to set gains. Cmon man just use ur ear. That's the best way because everysong has a different bass output naturally. Its easy turn all ur bass down or off on the HU then put in a good bass song, then set ur gain by ear at the volume loudest u listen to on the HU. And to be safe turn it back a notch from that point. Then u can adjust bass output according to songs at the HU by turning the bass up from -6 to -3 or so since u started with ur bass at -6 . Then u turn it up by ear to where ur at ur loudest before clipping/distorting, then back down like 2 volumes on the HU and u will be fine. Just go by ear its the only way to get the nost out of ur system on any song.. been doing it for years never blew a sub or speaker ever. And don't forget to set all ur crossovers correctly.

 

[Djltoronto 10+ year member]

Just read this whole thread....

Any update from the OP?

What was the outcome?

As for the too loud too soon comments form the shop, that really should only cause mechanical defects like broken spiders like this! (video below)

Please finish the story - It's my holiday entertainment.

 

[tc300 10+ year member]

those level converters = ur goin to fry something!! LOL

 

[inkman71]

I just purchased a HO112R-W7 and used a JL 1000/1 amp to power it. The audio shop set the gain on the amp to about a third of the way up. I am using a factory head unit on a Pontiac G8 GT and running 4 gauge wire. My battery is in my trunk.
As soon as I drove away from the car audio store with this particular sub and amp, I smelled a weird smell in the car. I drove home about 20 minutes and then parked the car. I went out about an hour later to pick up dinner and the bass cut out after driving 5 minutes. I pulled over and opened the trunk only to find smoke coming out of the sub.

I took it back to the audio shop today and they now have to send it back to JL. How did this happen? Is it because the subs were not broken in yet? I was not playing them too too loud. What's even more confusing is that I smelled that weird smell right after driving away from the shop. The sub and the amp were both new equipment.

A replacement sub should be arriving in a couple weeks. What can I do the next time to ensure that I break the sub in properly and how do I keep it from blowing? Is one third of the way up a proper setting for the 1000/1 amp to power the 12w7 in a high output ported box?

I thought the 12w7 matched the 1000/1 really well and I did not think there was a danger in them blowing out that easily.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John

i have the same setup added to a factory bose system, i added a high output line converter to my factory rear speaker wires after the fact. amp to convert them to rca's, i did the big 3 under the hood, i ran all 4awg wire for + and - and 12awg for remote.. i added a 2nd battery in the trunk(caps ****) i turned my gain all the way down and put my vol. at 3/4 i then turned my gain up til i heard a tiny bit distortion and backed off a smidge. now, this amp can be VERY tuned. i assume that the place that installed it is a registered JL dealer. they should know how to tune it. i push my system to the max and never even had the amp go into protect mode. this amp pulls about 80-100 amps, find out what amp your alternator is, headlights use about 25amp a/c bout 30amp if you have a 120 amp alternator you might be straining it a bit, all in all i believe you had a defective sub. i can see my trunk expanding when the bass hits. this is a great set up. and as far as the 2k price tag, you did good! to anyone who don't think so look up the price of= 1000/1 v2 slash amp.,JL 12w7 sub, g-force ported box, then the price of the 4awg wireing and fuse block and 150amp fuse, then the wireing for the big 3, and the 2nd battery! 2g's is good, im in for 2,500$ just break it in for a week, and let it rip!!

 

[The_Grimy_One 10+ year member]

i have the same setup added to a factory bose system, i added a high output line converter to my factory rear speaker wires after the fact. amp to convert them to rca's, i did the big 3 under the hood, i ran all 4awg wire for + and - and 12awg for remote.. i added a 2nd battery in the trunk(caps ****) i turned my gain all the way down and put my vol. at 3/4 i then turned my gain up til i heard a tiny bit distortion and backed off a smidge. now, this amp can be VERY tuned. i assume that the place that installed it is a registered JL dealer. they should know how to tune it. i push my system to the max and never even had the amp go into protect mode. this amp pulls about 80-100 amps, find out what amp your alternator is, headlights use about 25amp a/c bout 30amp if you have a 120 amp alternator you might be straining it a bit, all in all i believe you had a defective sub. i can see my trunk expanding when the bass hits. this is a great set up. and as far as the 2k price tag, you did good! to anyone who don't think so look up the price of= 1000/1 v2 slash amp.,JL 12w7 sub, g-force ported box, then the price of the 4awg wireing and fuse block and 150amp fuse, then the wireing for the big 3, and the 2nd battery! 2g's is good, im in for 2,500$ just break it in for a week, and let it rip!!

I'm in no way downgrading your set up or his. And it's a good thing he got the warranty, since that issued happened. But that is way too much money. A w7 is a nice sub, and sounds very good, no matter what anyone says. But they can be had for much much cheaper, and much better stuff can be purchased for the price. I have a crystal amp, paid 250 for. An RD Audio Alpha that ran me 200, and a custom ported box that ran me 140. That's about 600. And it is 2 times louder and almost as clean as the w7. My crystal amp is much more efficient than the slash series. They are good amps, but def not efficient, you need good electrical to run the, right. I dont feel he or you got a good deal. Again, I will never say the w7 is a bad sub, because they really do sound good, just way too much $

 

[Raptor660 10+ year member]

alright... as with my 8w7's.... it might say 1000rms for ur 12w7 but its happier at 750rms (my 8w7's r 500rms, but r much happier at 350rms) and there is a proper way to tune that combo, JL actually gives u diagrams in the manual. use dmm to set gain, no bassboost, SS filter set properly, and how to set all other settings

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

Didn't read the whole thread but I'll say this, JL Audio is not crap for all the haters, too expensive? Yes. But not crap. It was either a factory defect or the shop cranking it and blowing it or damaging it.

There's a POS shop here in SD called Audio Excellence that I had install some comps w/ a PPI DCX-730 and after I told them specifically not to play them because I had to set the xovers I ended up picking up my vehicle with a blown tweeter. They blamed me for not having them install the passive xovers that came with the Rainbow Germaniums! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/pissed.gif.9f665f96bc89e98e708dabd4580bb591.gif

 

[inkman71]

No doubt JL is pricey. But you get what you pay for. I can only speak on what I personally purchased in the past and what works for me. I've had all kinds of systems. And every car reflexs different acustics like trunk vs hatch ect. Ect. I am very happy w what I bought for the price. I'm not even tootin my own horn but the set up I got is no joke. I've NEVER even had 2 subs that sound like this 1. I'm sure yours sounds great. But I'm weary of brands I never had the pleasure of hearing. And although cheaper equipment might sound good out of the box. Over time they lose thier umph. I had my set up for over 2 yrs and never not once had a problem. Except smokin an alternator in my car. Then I bumped if up to a 220 amp one. Since then. Not a problem! Again I never knock others and what they have. I'm just saying what I have pounds. It's hard to breath and my ears hurt on most bass songs! That's all. Thanks for the feedback and crtisism!

 

[inkman71]

It does say to use 4awg wire. But using anything bigger? Do you mean bigger as in a higher #wire or a physically bigger wire? You can use 0awg wire too. And using 6awg or smaller. Well. Putting to many amps through a smaller electrical highway will cause it to heat up and burn. Possibly setting your carpet on fire. Lol. Like I said. That amp draws 80-100amps. So just be sufficient w your wiring according to your current needs.