Blew my dd 2515 :(

I cant get it checked out till tomorrow evening. I honestly put this car audio stuff aside to get some engine repairs, but i bought the amp on impulse lol

 
spend another 25 bucks on some 0 gauge and do the big 3 and spend another 140 on a good battery please........we have been telling u for months to upgrade ur electrical man

The least u can do is big 3 and battery....

STOP RUNNING MORE THEN 800 WATTS ON STOCK ELECTRICAL

 
spend another 25 bucks on some 0 gauge and do the big 3 and spend another 140 on a good battery please........we have been telling u for months to upgrade ur electrical man
The least u can do is big 3 and battery....

STOP RUNNING MORE THEN 800 WATTS ON STOCK ELECTRICAL
I like blowin siht up. Gives me somethin to make threads about lol

Yea youre right thougg. I might quit the scene for abit a focus on that engine rattling i been putting aside.

 
spend another 25 bucks on some 0 gauge and do the big 3 and spend another 140 on a good battery please........we have been telling u for months to upgrade ur electrical man
The least u can do is big 3 and battery....

STOP RUNNING MORE THEN 800 WATTS ON STOCK ELECTRICAL
I run 1500 watts on a stock electrical in my saturn with no problems. Only thing I've done is changed out the stock battery for a yellowtop optima.

Op how big is your alt?

 
While almost anyone could benefit from an electrical upgrade, it really won't cause major problems unless you're dipping down to ~11V on a regular basis.

Test while using a DMM hooked up to your amp's power terminals (not measured at battery). If you see voltage drops, you have problems. No voltage drops, no worries.

I see WAAAAAAYYYY too many people on here with total overkill for a charging/electrical system, thinking they need it. As stated above, you only need it if your voltage is dropping into the 11s. If you wanna hold peak RMS, 14.4 would be ideal, however most quality amps are rated at 12V or 13.8V, cheap crap is 14.4V (unless you are talking about competition amps that run up to 17V).

I run a 125AH deep cycle WALMART Maxx marine battery ($85) and 1200RMS off of a stock 80 amp alt. You should upgrade your battery and grounds before anything else.

 
While almost anyone could benefit from an electrical upgrade, it really won't cause major problems unless you're dipping down to ~11V on a regular basis.Test while using a DMM hooked up to your amp's power terminals (not measured at battery). If you see voltage drops, you have problems. No voltage drops, no worries.

I see WAAAAAAYYYY too many people on here with total overkill for a charging/electrical system, thinking they need it. As stated above, you only need it if your voltage is dropping into the 11s. If you wanna hold peak RMS, 14.4 would be ideal, however most quality amps are rated at 12V or 13.8V, cheap crap is 14.4V.

I run a 125AH deep cycle WALMART Maxx marine battery ($85) and 1200RMS off of a stock 80 amp alt. You should upgrade your battery and grounds before anything else.
Definitely wouldn't run 1200 watts on a **** battery and an 80 amp alternator. You're just asking for problems.

 
Yea idk what went wrong. The only difference was that i was using a kicker kx 1200.1 amp before the dd amp without issues. The only thing that couldve gone wrong would be that i wasnt tuning the amp correctly or that the amp is fukced up. Idk. I really hope it was clippin from misuse of the amp. Otherwise i have 2 problems to deal with

 
Definitely wouldn't run 1200 watts on a **** battery and an 80 amp alternator. You're just asking for problems.
Like I said before, as long as you are not having any voltage drops (at the amp), it does not matter what kind of charging system you have. I've installed and ran several systems this way, and on 90% of them, I didn't even need a 2nd battery. The important part is having 12V or higher at your amp, at all times.

OP,

If you changed amps and your problems happened then, I would double-check that your amp is not putting out DC or easily clipping (square wave). That is, if you set your gains right in the first place. An easy way would be to play a test tone with an o-scope. Otherwise you would have to have a sensitive DC volt meter and see if the voltage is almost steady DC, it should only be AC voltage coming out off of a test tone, measured at the speaker terminals.

 
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