Blast from the past.....Konaki ko15 4th order help!?

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crackerbox160db

CarAudio.com Newbie
So long story short......I got a 15" Konaki and thought about trying to do a somewhat low power 4th order in an ext. cab '94 ford. Figured I'll just pull the rear seating. Anyway.... been hell to find alot of number on the driver so thought I'd see if anyone out there knows or has played with them much. If so any ideas? TIA
 
Might be hard to find TS specs on that driver. These are Chinese knockoffs of the DD 9500 series 15 Inch sub. I suppose you could model your enclosure off the DD 9500 sub, but it probably won’t be near the same. I suspect that the motor is merely designed off DD, so the materials and quality of construction will not be the same. Not the same magnet. People used to recone these subs with DD soft parts, then try to sell them off as legit DD on ebay. Many people out there are rolling around thinking they have DD, when it is the junk Konaki with a DD cone and dust cap.
 
So long story short......I got a 15" Konaki and thought about trying to do a somewhat low power 4th order in an ext. cab '94 ford. Figured I'll just pull the rear seating. Anyway.... been hell to find alot of number on the driver so thought I'd see if anyone out there knows or has played with them much. If so any ideas? TIA
This should hit pretty nicely do a rear loaded 4 cu ft enclosure have the sub load 8" off the rear wall behind the driver's seat ....then have a 60 sq inch slotted port load 8" off the passenger rear corner the slot length needs to be 19" long it can be turned in side enclosure L if needed ...make sure to add port dimensions after so internal will be close to 4.5 . Run a true 1000 arms to it un clipped

I hope this helps ....
 
This should hit pretty nicely do a rear loaded 4 cu ft enclosure have the sub load 8" off the rear wall behind the driver's seat ....then have a 60 sq inch slotted port load 8" off the passenger rear corner the slot length needs to be 19" long it can be turned in side enclosure L if needed ...make sure to add port dimensions after so internal will be close to 4.5 . Run a true 1000 arms to it un clipped

I hope this helps ....
Louisiana CRX, in that case feel like being the designer of this build and I'll be the cheap labor? Lol
 
This should hit pretty nicely do a rear loaded 4 cu ft enclosure have the sub load 8" off the rear wall behind the driver's seat ....then have a 60 sq inch slotted port load 8" off the passenger rear corner the slot length needs to be 19" long it can be turned in side enclosure L if needed ...make sure to add port dimensions after so internal will be close to 4.5 . Run a true 1000 arms to it un clipped

I hope this helps ....

You think a simple slot would be best or just in general? Wanna chase some db's with this thing but I havent been able to find much on them for Ts's and wanted to cut the consumption down as I dont want to spend the funds for electrical in the truck at this time.
 
I agree with crx on the box size. It needs to be on the smallish side for a 15. These subs got loud back in the day, but when they failed, it was usually the soft parts. They were pretty decent knock off DD subs. Enough people got fooled that digital designs apparently changed their policies on buying recone kits from them. This is just from reading around on the internet. I did a single box for the Konaki 15 in a kids hatchback honda years ago. 4.5 cubes at 34 hz I think. Might have been 4.75 cubes. I do remember doing it under 5. It was loud as hell. Never saw the kid again, so I don’t know about how durable the sub ended up being.
 
I agree with crx on the box size. It needs to be on the smallish side for a 15. These subs got loud back in the day, but when they failed, it was usually the soft parts. They were pretty decent knock off DD subs. Enough people got fooled that digital designs apparently changed their policies on buying recone kits from them. This is just from reading around on the internet. I did a single box for the Konaki 15 in a kids hatchback honda years ago. 4.5 cubes at 34 hz I think. Might have been 4.75 cubes. I do remember doing it under 5. It was loud as hell. Never saw the kid again, so I don’t know about how durable the sub ended up being.

From what I know I got these for ts parameters on the model
Screenshot_20200101-044524_Chrome.jpg

This is the extent of depth I've tried to find on this thing. I remember hearing something about them but this is my first at messing with anything of theirs. Anymore iron or possible designs would be seriously appreciated. I tried to find an old post of big moe's with a sh*t ton of box layouts but never could find it. I was a member way back when snoopdan was still around but forgot all my account info and havent been active on forum for years.
 
I did the exact same thing. I was a member here from 03 to 08 and lost my account info. Those box designs were handy.
Any idea where they may have went? Dont see too many old faces here. Saw a couple but not many that's for sure!
So I'm guessing everyone is thinking a sub back port back (passenger side)? Clean 1k rms at 4 cubes and around 4.5ish after sub and port displacement?
 
This should hit pretty nicely do a rear loaded 4 cu ft enclosure have the sub load 8" off the rear wall behind the driver's seat ....then have a 60 sq inch slotted port load 8" off the passenger rear corner the slot length needs to be 19" long it can be turned in side enclosure L if needed ...make sure to add port dimensions after so internal will be close to 4.5 . Run a true 1000 arms to it un clipped

I hope this helps ....

Qusetion......after box rise since the resistance of that size enclosure would 1k rms at 1 ohm (since the driver is dual 2) would I need an amplifier that would do ?>1k rms at 1 ohm or ......? I dont know how much it would make a difference but I'd like to run it very close to rms if not a little more without trying to make the stock soft parts on the woofer just blow apart on the first run. I'm testing the coils and gonna do a small free air to see how the mechanical limits look on it tomorrow before driving further with this idea as either way I'm gonna pull the backseat out of the cab but havent chose an amplifier yet as I've been bouncing between a simple slot and attempting a 4th order with this. Thanks in advance for the ideas and input.
 
Qusetion......after box rise since the resistance of that size enclosure would 1k rms at 1 ohm (since the driver is dual 2) would I need an amplifier that would do ?>1k rms at 1 ohm or ......? I dont know how much it would make a difference but I'd like to run it very close to rms if not a little more without trying to make the stock soft parts on the woofer just blow apart on the first run. I'm testing the coils and gonna do a small free air to see how the mechanical limits look on it tomorrow before driving further with this idea as either way I'm gonna pull the backseat out of the cab but havent chose an amplifier yet as I've been bouncing between a simple slot and attempting a 4th order with this. Thanks in advance for the ideas and input.
I've never fooled with 4th orders ...only ported but with over 100 first place wins a spl world record and numerous state records and I ran daily boxes 85% of the time I can't say a properly ported box has ever let me down
 
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crackerbox160db

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