Birch vs MDF

And i can guarantee you don't know what the hell your talking about //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
I can guarantee you don't know anything about Baltic Birch.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif What's the point of using birch plywood if its simply cabinet grade veneer?

 
This thread is full of lulz.....

True baltic comes in 4x8's and 5x5's. It is more common to find the 5x5 sheets though. No it is not cheap, and no, you probably will not get it at your local HD. Any grade of plywood is lighter and stiffer than mdf, but with that also comes resonance. Make sure when asking, that whatever you do get is void free.

And the better questions is why all the questions about screws? You shouldn't even need them if the proper glue and clamping is used.

 
Hmmm. What is the difference in sound and output between the two? I am sure there has to be some difference, but never tried birch.

 
This thread is full of lulz.....
True baltic comes in 4x8's and 5x5's. It is more common to find the 5x5 sheets though. No it is not cheap, and no, you probably will not get it at your local HD. Any grade of plywood is lighter and stiffer than mdf, but with that also comes resonance. Make sure when asking, that whatever you do get is void free.

And the better questions is why all the questions about screws? You shouldn't even need them if the proper glue and clamping is used.
you really trust a high spl box to not blow apart because you used just wood glue? i wouldnt trust that at all.. why spend $100+ to build a box and skimp on a $5 box of screws?? doesnt make any sense not to screw it together and glue it...

 
\the true birch is 13 ply and around $120 a sheet.
^^^ this If someone is selling you "baltic birch" ply for under 90 a sheet you're probably being lied to.

Ok so void free for sure. Is the birch at home depot or other places void free or should I take the safer route an ask? An yes the screws will be countersunk.
I've used the home depot "Birch" and "Oak" cabinet grade plywood with good results. Much easier on tools, lighter, and water resistant, and a bit more durable overall than MDF.

I can guarantee you don't know anything about Baltic Birch.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif What's the point of using birch plywood if its simply cabinet grade veneer?
I've used cheaper plywood and built solid boxes (for testing I use as cheap as possible). The "cabinet grade" with the veneer has less voids overall and no voids on the faces (to make better glue contact). Just my .02$ If I were building some high end home cabinets I'd pony up for the baltic....if I'm going to throw 2 or 3 sheets at a box that I'll scrap and rebuild in half a year, I'm not dumping 300$ on wood!

I've had good results with coarse drywall screws and regular wood screws.

 
Your better off using some good void free ply wood then the birch ply stuff, at my Menards they're both the same price onsale $30, the regular ply is stronger. Now the good birch is $77 a sheet

 
Your better off using some good void free ply wood then the birch ply stuff, at my Menards they're both the same price onsale $30, the regular ply is stronger. Now the good birch is $77 a sheet
how do i know if it's void free? is it advertised?

btw the 5 ply birch is all i can find around here without going out of my way to go to a lumber yard. the 5 ply would still be better than MDF, right?

 
you really trust a high spl box to not blow apart because you used just wood glue? i wouldnt trust that at all.. why spend $100+ to build a box and skimp on a $5 box of screws?? doesnt make any sense not to screw it together and glue it...
lol...I've built close to 10 boxes using just glue and clamps, holds together fine

 
how do i know if it's void free? is it advertised?
btw the 5 ply birch is all i can find around here without going out of my way to go to a lumber yard. the 5 ply would still be better than MDF, right?

That's what I've been using for a few years now. Works fine and has very few voids.

 
titebond II for the joints, clamp then brad nail to hold them in place until it dries, then polyurethane all seams. screws take too much time and offer just about 0 benefits over brad nails once the glue has dried

 
well i got a fresh bottle of titebond II, some drywall course screws, and some liquid nails with a caulkin gun. the screws will be predilled also. my buddy has a few big clamps already. so i should have enough to take care of this project right?

 
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