mitchellc123 10+ year member
Member
Will doin the big 3 upgrade make my system louder? And do i need to have 0 gauge to do it?
Any amplifier will see a significant efficiency increase if the voltage were brought up significantly. Going from say 12v to 14 volts would be huge and would definitely make it louder.Louder? No, not unless your voltage is dropping so low that your amps are choking.
The big 3 is not a "bandaid". It is necessary with or without a HO alt for aftermarket accessories. As stated it reduces the series resistance in the chain and allows whatever alternator that is installed to get the most current to the devices needing it. Without the big 3, you are unnecessarily choking your equipment.Big 3 is just a bandaid for a lack of alternator power, but it does reduce electrical resistance, which optimizes your current alternator. However, it's a necessity if you do run a HO alternator.
The frame is where all devices are grounded within the car. Alternator case to chassis would be one of the most important grounds. The starting battery doesn't do much of anything once the vehicle is started. The lower the voltage the larger the toll that series resistance takes so acting like the starting battery is the main thing to focus on is off the mark.BTW, skip the run from engine block to frame. Connect one end to the alternator case bolt, and the other to your batt negative termination point close to the battery (or the batt negative terminal). The alternator case is the true electrical ground when the engine is running. No sense forcing the current to go through the block to get there.
Same here. Peace.Any amplifier will see a significant efficiency increase if the voltage were brought up significantly. Going from say 12v to 14 volts would be huge and would definitely make it louder.
Not staying at 14 volts is choking the amp. Staying at 14 volts is not choking the amp.
The big 3 is not a "bandaid". It is necessary with or without a HO alt for aftermarket accessories. As stated it reduces the series resistance in the chain and allows whatever alternator that is installed to get the most current to the devices needing it. Without the big 3, you are unnecessarily choking your equipment.
I mentioned, "but it does reduce electrical resistance, which optimizes your current alternator."
The frame is where all devices are grounded within the car. Alternator case to chassis would be one of the most important grounds. The starting battery doesn't do much of anything once the vehicle is started. The lower the voltage the larger the toll that series resistance takes so acting like the starting battery is the main thing to focus on is off the mark.
Not focusing on the starting battery. I said, "Connect one end to the alternator case bolt, and the other to your batt negative termination point close to the battery (or the batt negative terminal ***Assuming the short ground to chassis is upgraded***). The alternator case is the true electrical ground when the engine is running. No sense forcing the current to go through the block to get there.
To add, when the engine is NOT running, the battery is now the true electrical ground.
I know I quoted your post and corrected you but I don't mean to be insulting. I'm just trying to help.
Yeah the reason I commented was that what you were saying had some things wrong with it. Nothing is done to your alternator so you can't really optimize it. You can help the current it puts out to flow with less restriction.Same here. Peace.
By not knowing what you're doing, not doing any research what so ever and not understanding the basics of an electrical system.where do u come up with these questions?
Was more rhetorical and sarcasm but thank you lulz. Its sad when people are so lazy to check the stickiesBy not knowing what you're doing, not doing any research what so ever and not understanding the basics of an electrical system.