Big 3 Question on a Mustang

[jonny101abc 10+ year member]

hey everyone, whats going on

i havent posted on here for a while, but heres a question for everyo

I have an 02 Mustang GT, the question is, on the alternator to battery wire, on the mustang its 2 segments, one segment goes from the alternator to the main fuse block, and from the fuse block to the battery.

Can i by pass the fuse block and run the wire directly to the battery from the altornator, or do i have to run it through the post on the side of the fuse block, and im not sure if im suppose to run it to the fuse block and the battery or run it straight.

I have already completed the other parts of the Big 3, with 3 chassis to engine ground points, and the chassis to battery negitave.

thanks in advance

John

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[jonny101abc 10+ year member]

nite bumpage

 

[SteveSkal]

You can run your wire straight from the battery to the alternator but I'd recommend putting a fuse of your own in there

 

[tsenfw 10+ year member]

I've done it on my mustang. Just ran the wire straight from the alternator to the battery. Had to break that red plastic thing a little on the positive post of the alternator. Worked out relatively ok. Didn't help my dimming that much though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[Betrayer00GT 10+ year member]

On my GT, I did two of the big three. What I did is run a new wire to the battery from the alt, and a new ground to the battery from the chassis. I also disconnected the stock battery connections. I didn't cut or otherwise modify those stock wires going to the battery in any way, I just disconnected them and did not connect them back when I was done. Again, that is for both the (+) and (-) connections. They are still connected to either the alt or the chassis, but neither is connected to the battery anymore.

I did this because I relocated my battery to the trunk. I ran 0ga to the trunk from the alt, and also found a spot back there on the chassis for the new ground (4ga). I still have the stock (+) and (-) terminals generally where they used to be, but they are heat-shrinked, electrical taped, and physically secured away from touching/rubbing anything in the engine bay. Well, there is also the original black-plastic housing covering the (+) terminal - I didn't remove that, of course.

After the relocation, I didn't have a difference in voltage at the battery terminals, with the car either on or off. That surprised me a bit. That was an 18ft long 0ga run, after all. I am also surprised that the 100A fuse on the battery (+) terminal (located

I have yet to make a "chassis to engine" run and complete all three, but I have no dimming issues with just a

 

[KINGDELL91 10+ year member]

Yeah Just bypass all that crazy stuff and keep the stock wire and began a new wire from the ALT to the batt just be sure to fuse it a 300amp fuse would be good!!!

LOL i just read the last Post..... Well you could have kept all the sock and still did the BIG 3 every lil bit helps maybe you should think about moving it back up front!!!

 

[Betrayer00GT 10+ year member]

...LOL i just read the last Post..... Well you could have kept all the sock and still did the BIG 3 every lil bit helps maybe you should think about moving it back up front!!!

Then the intercooler piping for a blower kit won't fit. I need that space for either intercooled supercharger kit I am looking at. I just went ahead and did it now since it really simplified the power wiring for my audio system. I wouldn't have done at all it if it wasn't needed to run the intercooler piping, though. Plus, I actually noticed a handling difference afterwords. I didn't expect to be able to really notice the difference.