keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
i can't tell what the RAF terminals are for at this point... but it looks like the answer to your bi-amp question is no.
http://www.diamondaudio.com/manuals/d6_v2_speaker_manual-2008.pdf
checking manual...
keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
RAF stands for "rear acoustic fill" and is an output for an additional pair of rear speakers.
no, you cannot bi-amp these crossovers.
you can bi-amp the speakers if you don't run the woofers through the crossover.
no, you cannot bi-amp these crossovers.
you can bi-amp the speakers if you don't run the woofers through the crossover.
- Thread Starter
- #5
Would this be bad on the speakers? Should I look into getting another comp set. I would really like to make use of the 120wrms x 2 @ 4 ohms bridged if possible. I'm wanting loudness and still maintaining sq as well.
keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
bi-amp is when your crossover has two sets of inputs, typically with jumpers between them for normal operation. it allows you to have separate amp channels for woofer and tweeter while using the passive crossover.
why do this? better level control between the two with the ability to use time alignment for the woofer and tweeter separately. it's not "active" and you still have the inherent issues with passive crossovers. it's less efficient than active since the amps are still playing a full range signal.
why do this? better level control between the two with the ability to use time alignment for the woofer and tweeter separately. it's not "active" and you still have the inherent issues with passive crossovers. it's less efficient than active since the amps are still playing a full range signal.
keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
you can run the woofer full range without damage. it just won't sound as good playing high frequencies. if you have an active crossover then you can bandpass the woofer and let the crossover protect the tweeter.
why do you want to bi-amp the speakers in the first place? and if you have the amp channels, what prevents you from running active? lack of active crossover above 1kHz?
why do you want to bi-amp the speakers in the first place? and if you have the amp channels, what prevents you from running active? lack of active crossover above 1kHz?
- Thread Starter
- #8
I have the 3Sixty.2 for an active use, just trying to understand how to get louder.
keep_hope_alive
Premium Member
Acoustics Engineer
louder?
more power overall (higher RMS output) and go active. the passive crossovers rob you of power.
more power overall (higher RMS output) and go active. the passive crossovers rob you of power.
- Thread Starter
- #10
What would you suggest for a louder sounding set of comps, granted I make use of the bridged power @ 120 wrms@ 4 ohms.
It's not possible. You'll be sending
The reason most people bi-amp their front components is two-fold. First, you won't have the woofer robbing current from the tweeter. Second, if you have the ability to tune your channels independently, you gain a lot of flexibility.
- Thread Starter
- #13
So should I stay with my current amp and do the 60wrms/channel, I can independently tune on the 900.6 amp.? Or should I check into other gear.
Rich B
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
Just bridge the Arc amp and use those comps.
If you have a 360.2 and know how to use it correctly, you do not need the passive x-overs. All you'll need is a capacitor for the tweeter in case you get turn on/off pop.
The RF360.2 has the ability to time correct, EQ, and HP/BP/LP each channel. It's a pretty neat piece but it's a lot of work & tweaking to get things right. Passive crossovers take a lot of the guesswork out of EQing, tweeter protection, and providing crossover points to your speakers. If you've never messed with an active system before and/or don't know someone who has...forget it. It's not something you can really learn on a message board. We can tell you what to listen for (if you have the right test disks) but we can't tell you to actually hear it.
What I mean are the nuances of EQing a system by ear and using time alignment to its full capacity. Very difficult to write an instruction guide to that...I can't at least.
With that, if you want to experiment - go for it. Just keep the passives around so you can A-B test.
It seems like you're looking for volume. Bridging the amp on the speakers will give you a noticeable gain...but not much. If you're using your processor now and are complaining about a lack of volume, it's probably tuned improperly. There's a lot of variables we're dealing with here; HU's processing, outboard processor, amp's processing, as well as the install. You can have the front speakers out of phase for all we know and it's part of the reason why paying a competent installer is sometimes a very good idea. I've seen DIY'ers cause a big stink about their system not being enough and the problem was from their own doing.
There's a good link in the SMD forums (SQ subforum) that talks about setting up your processing with IASCA disks. I'd suggest reading that and getting a hold of those and the Autosound disks before you do something stupid and bridge your amp and possibly blow your speakers.
It's best to make sure everything is installed correctly and tuned somewhat properly before you go and try to get louder.
The RF360.2 has the ability to time correct, EQ, and HP/BP/LP each channel. It's a pretty neat piece but it's a lot of work & tweaking to get things right. Passive crossovers take a lot of the guesswork out of EQing, tweeter protection, and providing crossover points to your speakers. If you've never messed with an active system before and/or don't know someone who has...forget it. It's not something you can really learn on a message board. We can tell you what to listen for (if you have the right test disks) but we can't tell you to actually hear it.
What I mean are the nuances of EQing a system by ear and using time alignment to its full capacity. Very difficult to write an instruction guide to that...I can't at least.
With that, if you want to experiment - go for it. Just keep the passives around so you can A-B test.
It seems like you're looking for volume. Bridging the amp on the speakers will give you a noticeable gain...but not much. If you're using your processor now and are complaining about a lack of volume, it's probably tuned improperly. There's a lot of variables we're dealing with here; HU's processing, outboard processor, amp's processing, as well as the install. You can have the front speakers out of phase for all we know and it's part of the reason why paying a competent installer is sometimes a very good idea. I've seen DIY'ers cause a big stink about their system not being enough and the problem was from their own doing.
There's a good link in the SMD forums (SQ subforum) that talks about setting up your processing with IASCA disks. I'd suggest reading that and getting a hold of those and the Autosound disks before you do something stupid and bridge your amp and possibly blow your speakers.
It's best to make sure everything is installed correctly and tuned somewhat properly before you go and try to get louder.
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