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<blockquote data-quote="BnGRacing" data-source="post: 7460704" data-attributes="member: 557400">If you have a 360.2 and know how to use it correctly, you do not need the passive x-overs. All you&#039;ll need is a capacitor for the tweeter in case you get turn on/off pop.The RF360.2 has the ability to time correct, EQ, and HP/BP/LP each channel. It&#039;s a pretty neat piece but it&#039;s a lot of work &amp;amp; tweaking to get things right. Passive crossovers take a lot of the guesswork out of EQing, tweeter protection, and providing crossover points to your speakers. If you&#039;ve never messed with an active system before and/or don&#039;t know someone who has...forget it. It&#039;s not something you can really learn on a message board. We can tell you what to listen for (if you have the right test disks) but we can&#039;t tell you to actually hear it.What I mean are the nuances of EQing a system by ear and using time alignment to its full capacity. Very difficult to write an instruction guide to that...I can&#039;t at least.With that, if you want to experiment - go for it. Just keep the passives around so you can A-B test.It seems like you&#039;re looking for volume. Bridging the amp on the speakers will give you a noticeable gain...but not much. If you&#039;re using your processor now and are complaining about a lack of volume, it&#039;s probably tuned improperly. There&#039;s a lot of variables we&#039;re dealing with here; HU&#039;s processing, outboard processor, amp&#039;s processing, as well as the install. You can have the front speakers out of phase for all we know and it&#039;s part of the reason why paying a competent installer is sometimes a very good idea. I&#039;ve seen DIY&#039;ers cause a big stink about their system not being&nbsp; enough and the problem was from their own doing. There&#039;s a good link in the SMD forums (SQ subforum) that talks about setting up your processing with IASCA disks. I&#039;d suggest reading that and getting a hold of those and the Autosound disks before you do something stupid and bridge your amp and possibly blow your speakers.It&#039;s best to make sure everything is installed correctly and tuned somewhat properly before you go and try to get louder.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="BnGRacing, post: 7460704, member: 557400"] If you have a 360.2 and know how to use it correctly, you do not need the passive x-overs. All you'll need is a capacitor for the tweeter in case you get turn on/off pop. The RF360.2 has the ability to time correct, EQ, and HP/BP/LP each channel. It's a pretty neat piece but it's a lot of work & tweaking to get things right. Passive crossovers take a lot of the guesswork out of EQing, tweeter protection, and providing crossover points to your speakers. If you've never messed with an active system before and/or don't know someone who has...forget it. It's not something you can really learn on a message board. We can tell you what to listen for (if you have the right test disks) but we can't tell you to actually hear it. What I mean are the nuances of EQing a system by ear and using time alignment to its full capacity. Very difficult to write an instruction guide to that...I can't at least. With that, if you want to experiment - go for it. Just keep the passives around so you can A-B test. It seems like you're looking for volume. Bridging the amp on the speakers will give you a noticeable gain...but not much. If you're using your processor now and are complaining about a lack of volume, it's probably tuned improperly. There's a lot of variables we're dealing with here; HU's processing, outboard processor, amp's processing, as well as the install. You can have the front speakers out of phase for all we know and it's part of the reason why paying a competent installer is sometimes a very good idea. I've seen DIY'ers cause a big stink about their system not being enough and the problem was from their own doing. There's a good link in the SMD forums (SQ subforum) that talks about setting up your processing with IASCA disks. I'd suggest reading that and getting a hold of those and the Autosound disks before you do something stupid and bridge your amp and possibly blow your speakers. It's best to make sure everything is installed correctly and tuned somewhat properly before you go and try to get louder. [/QUOTE]

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