Best Wood For Box

pretty sure that wouldn't be as strong as mdf...maybe if you framed it up with square tubing.
it is stronger der..... but would be piss poor for an enclosure due to flex regardless of bracing. u need closer to .280 - 340 for even a small enclosure to work and aluminum is actually better than steel for that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
"Natural grain wood is actually rare, however. Most wood is not dense and dead enough (acoustically dead, that is) to avoid harsh resonances which color music. That's why MDF and HDF is used so much by professional installers for enclosure construction and panel fabrication. That is not to say natural wood is not used. Many audiophiles prefer Birch, or more specifically, 3/4" 7 ply Russian Birch (is guud strrrrong rrrushin vood, no). This wood is extremely dense, and fairly heavy, and a 6x8 sheet is roughly $55. Also, wood veneer made of Oak, Pine, Burlwood, Walnut, Pecan, or Teak is used to trim panels or accent an installation. Nothing can be said to be more visually pleasing than a well colored and finished natural wood grain (except maybe a nekked honey baby with a six pack). As nice as wood is, the expense makes it impractical for hidden panels or carpeted enclosures. Enter, Fiberboard. MDF and HDF are quite a bit less expensive, and offer the same dense and acoustically dead properties as hardwoods. A little note: Masonite is often confused as an individual material, it is actually a brand name for HDF. MDF stands for Medium Density Fiberboard, and HDF is (obviously) High Density Fiberboard. Both types of wood are basically fine sawdust, which is mixed with resin, then compressed under heat. Same goes for particle board, except with particle board, the sawdust is much less fine. Particle board is not as sturdy as MDF or HDF. All three need good cutting blades to work on, and all three are very easily damaged by water (in fact, Masonite corporation just got it up the *** by consumer groups because of home siding made from Masonite rotting due to water damage). MDF and HDF is most often used for making enclosures, amp racks, and speaker baffles, or whatever."

 
Your box, my wood. You love how dense it is. High density, not that medium density, chubby stuff. I took my time and went slow and thrusted about 20 cycles per second, which was below your box's tuning frequency, so there was some unloading going on. unloaded all over that ***. your hole/port is small and tight, so I heard some queefs, I mean port noise.

 
that is as far from actual truth as possible. 11 or 13 ply void free cabinet grade birch is more "accoustically dead" than any man made wood is like mdf . we use mdf because it is 1/2 the cost and just as easy to work with.
I knew some Dummy was going to argue my point. You might be right, but no one cares or Mdf sales would be down. I don't really care about all of that technical mombo jumbo. I just care about real world results. I've beaten guys on the meter and know others that did too, beat these guys with 11 ply, whole car deadened, and resin inside the box. They was asking me what kind of box I had because I was louder than them. That special Zombie box didn't do jack. Some guys have bad installs at comps, and most of these guys think they have all the answer to car audio. One guy was so mad he lost that he went and told a judge I was running too much power for that class. The judge checked my car and that Dummy was wrong. There was another guy out there that had built boxes for 3 different cars. He was out there bragging telling us that we were going to see how a box is supposed to be built. He placed, but no first place. He lost guys that kept it simple. Like I said OP, keep it simple! You'll need a double baffle just to support the weight of those monsters and internal bracing.

 
SicAudio I apologize for the Dummy comment. Chuck Norris took over my body.
happens to the best of us //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
By far the best wood to use for building enclosures is MDF. I agree particle board will be easier to work with (less strain on the table saw, easier to miter/dado grove, easier to drill woofers into), but that tells you something?

In order to get the best out of your subwoofers you need to have something solid. The correct term is 'dense'. Density has a big roll in how the woofer will perform. MDF is much more dense than particle board, hence the name MEDIUM DENSITY FIBERBOARD.

I would try to go with an OAK MDF, it is dark in color as opposed to Pine, it is lighter in color. Either way, go with MDF. I have a technician friend who works for Atrend (http://www.aterndusa.com) , they are a leading mfg of enclosures and use Hardwood MDF for all their apps.

Good luck.

 
In fairbanks you cant event look at berch for under a bill a sheet! good guess though. I use old trusty 3/4 MDF. A good carpenter predrills all holes that he puts screws in. While predrilling you should counter sink the hole. You should be proud of you box not assamed to show your skill off. Building a cabnet is a highly sought after skill, if you perfect it you can make countless amounts of money!!

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

stilltippin863

10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
Thread starter
stilltippin863
Joined
Location
Florida
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
60
Views
3,525
Last reply date
Last reply from
Mattd0344
IMG_20260516_193114554_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_20260516_192955471_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top