Best sub for low power low budget output? Pioneer CH-pro vs Infinity Reference

[Spectre420]

So I am building my friend a system.

He is pretty low on the budget for this and we already have a 175w RMS (@ 8ohm stable only) amp.

The goal here is LOUD but clean and the deeper/core shaking the bass the better.

Here is what we are looking at:

Infinity 1262W Reference Series 1200W 12" Subwoofer

Pioneer TS-W3003D4 12" Champion Pro Series 2000W Subwoofer

Both woofers here offer a high amount of sensitivity and x-max for the price with the Pioneer having 3db more sensitivity and 3mm more x-max however it has twice the RMS power of the Infinity and the Infinity already has almost twice the RMS of the amp.

The question is, even though the Pioneer has better T/S loudness specs, will massive underpowering of the sub make the Infinity perform better?

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

For LOW BUDGET, LOW COST..Lanzar Max Pro subs..The sound and performance depends on the properly built box for the sub woofer as well as location and prep. and type of vehicle/electrical,amplification,as well as type of box being built

 

[jordon]

Go with sound qubed hds2 or sundown e series

 

[Spectre420]

Jordon, All those are great subs and all but they don't fit the budget and have a WAY higher RMS than 175 watts.

As for the lanzar max pro, I am worried it wont sound that good. It will be in a custom ported and braced box built myself. (I have build like 12 boxes in my days so far) I want it tuned probably in the 30-32.5hz range. Also I am worried that it wont keep up with the others as it has an 87db sensitivity unlike the 93-96dbs and the FS is 40hz and I doubt it will get as low as I am looking for with that resonance and only 10mm xmax.

Am I wrong with these ideas? If so, why?

 

[brian84corvette 10+ year member]

2 options that are still reasonably cheap

stereo integrity ht 15 and 18"

obsidian audio 15 and 18" but good luck finding them now adays

but

please please tell me how you have an amplifier thats only 8 ohm stable

i thought every amp in car stereo is stable at 4 ohms i mean thats pretty much the norm.

if for real you keeping the 8 ohm only amp - get a dual 4 coil and wire it to 8 ohms

or go to a pawn shop and pick up any amp in the $50 range that will do at least 3/400w at 4 ohm bridged

 

[big scott]

ya what amp is it?

and you can use any sub . dont worry about rms . you can run a sub rated at 1000rms with that amp.

with only 175rms you are not going to get LOUD . you can get some bass. but bass needs power to make bass.

and the right box for that sub.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

What amp? And as for RMS. The better sub is the better sub no matter the power it sees.

And sensitivity don't mean anything more than what it does free air on 1 watt. It's pointless in the real world. Hell most specs are pointless by themselves. Xmas don't mean much without coil size and motor force.

 

[big scott]

^^^^^ exactly.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

What amp? And as for RMS. The better sub is the better sub no matter the power it sees.
And sensitivity don't mean anything more than what it does free air on 1 watt. It's pointless in the real world. Hell most specs are pointless by themselves. Xmas don't mean much without coil size and motor force.

I beg to differ man, a sub with stiff @ss suspension will require a lot more to move. A fully fed sub performs differently from a sub barely getting drops of power. When its underpowered that much, the bass also sounds muddy and unimpressive as heck.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Build the box bigger man. Motor force will make up for it. You wouldn't think 9500s would sound good on 500 watts but they won SQ trophies. You can stand on those even after break in.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

175 to 500 is ~2.8 times the power, in theory thats quite a few dbs. What if the guy does not want a box on the bigger side? Its simpler to just get a cheaper efficient sub that can be fully fed in a non-ridiculous sized box that can sound just as good.

 

[Spectre420]

The amp is a logitech ultra-linear plate amp.

Its a 6 channel amp. and we are kinda stuck with it. This will be a portable system that will be part of the car most of the time. There will be times where the sub is removed with the amp and used indoors. The amp has a fixed x-over and therefor can't use a 15/18 as it isn't punchy/middy enough with the power available.

I know bass needs power, but we gotta make what we got work and I have built some pretty loud 250w systems. I know what to expect from this amount of power.

Box size isn't really an issue.

"I beg to differ man, a sub with stiff @ss suspension will require a lot more to move. A fully fed sub performs differently from a sub barely getting drops of power. When its underpowered that much, the bass also sounds muddy and unimpressive as heck."

That is basically the motive theory for this post.

Also what about these woofers?

JBL GTO1214D 12" Grand Touring Series 1400W Subwoofer

NVX NSW124V2 12" Dual 4-Ohm N-Series V2 Subwoofer

 

[Spooney 10+ year member]

Out of those last two the JBL is a much better sub for the money. I have never been disappointed with a JBL product

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

yea, go with the JBL.

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=350753494462

Best deal around.