3.5Max6spd
10+ year member
yo mama no wear no draws
What are you looking to spend on the front stage? Depending on that you might wanna go active or passive, if you go passive you will want to get components. I am not a total expert on active. The sticky on the top could fill you in.
CDT have awesome speakers and can be at high volumes without distorting and still sound very very clear. I hear rainbow makes great speakers also. Also, the alpine SPX's might be up your ally.
CDT have awesome speakers and can be at high volumes without distorting and still sound very very clear. I hear rainbow makes great speakers also. Also, the alpine SPX's might be up your ally.
- Thread Starter
- #4
Thanks for the reply. I apologize for not stating my budget. I'm going to need two tweeters, four 6x9's(two in front/two in back), and two small 6x9 subs just to gimmie that extra little "oomph". My budget for all eight of these speakers is $700-$1000. Budget for amp is around $300-$400 tops. Overall, including shop installation labor, I don't don't wanna spend over $2000(again, there will be no H/U).
I'm right in Downtown Los Angeles and looking for an exceptional shop in LA/Orange County/Ventura-Burbank. A place that knows their way around a Mercedes.
I'm right in Downtown Los Angeles and looking for an exceptional shop in LA/Orange County/Ventura-Burbank. A place that knows their way around a Mercedes.
- Thread Starter
- #5
Really? Like where?
Here's what you do.
Only run one pair of 6x9s in the rear. None in the front, no 6x9 subs.
Front Comps: Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS comps
Rear Coaxials: Pioneer Revs $100
Sub: Phoenix Gold RSD 10" $100
Fronts Amp: Kicker ZX650.4 $370
Sub Amp: Kicker ZX750.1 $300
RAAMat Deadening $120
KnuKonceptz Wiring: $150 for all the power wire, RCAs, distro blocks, and battery terminals
$1400 total. Add an extra $30 or so for some MDF to build a box. Install it yourself to save cash. If rear fill isn't necessary, dropping it and getting a different amp would take another ~$200 off the price.
Only run one pair of 6x9s in the rear. None in the front, no 6x9 subs.
Front Comps: Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS comps
Rear Coaxials: Pioneer Revs $100
Sub: Phoenix Gold RSD 10" $100
Fronts Amp: Kicker ZX650.4 $370
Sub Amp: Kicker ZX750.1 $300
RAAMat Deadening $120
KnuKonceptz Wiring: $150 for all the power wire, RCAs, distro blocks, and battery terminals
$1400 total. Add an extra $30 or so for some MDF to build a box. Install it yourself to save cash. If rear fill isn't necessary, dropping it and getting a different amp would take another ~$200 off the price.
It would be a shame to not use the full processing power of the H701 by using a passively ran component set.
With the processing power you have, you should be looking at going into an active setup. However, once you step into that arena there is a pretty big learning curve, and A LOT of options.
If I had $1000.00 for speakers, I'd buy these.
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=3957670.16594&pid=1940
and couple them with these
http://www.madisound.com/pdf/scanspeak/d2904_600000e.pdf
They're $170.00 each, but very, very nice. That's about $600.00 for speakers and much, much better for the money than anything else pre-packaged.
You can find some reviews, and more information at http://www.diymobileaudio.com
With the processing power you have, you should be looking at going into an active setup. However, once you step into that arena there is a pretty big learning curve, and A LOT of options.
If I had $1000.00 for speakers, I'd buy these.
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=3957670.16594&pid=1940
and couple them with these
http://www.madisound.com/pdf/scanspeak/d2904_600000e.pdf
They're $170.00 each, but very, very nice. That's about $600.00 for speakers and much, much better for the money than anything else pre-packaged.
You can find some reviews, and more information at http://www.diymobileaudio.com
Oops, didn't see the part about the H701. Def. should go active.
- Thread Starter
- #9
The thing is, I haven't the foggiest idea what Active is. Can you fill me in?
Sure. In a passive system (basically your average component set) the passive cross-over uses permanent crossover points that are determined by the manufacturer to separate frequencies between drivers. In an active setup, an active crossover network is used (in your case, the Alpine H701). An active crossover allows you to pick your crossover points rather than the manufacturer choosing the points for you. Not only does this allow you to pick what is best for your specific install, it also allows you to mix and match drivers. This means that you can pick whatever mids you want and then go with a tweeter that fits them or vice versa. You have more control over your system and can change settings whenever you want. You also can switch out your mids or tweeters at any time, rather than having to replace the whole setup.
A properly installed active setup will generally perform better than a passive setup. However, this is not guaranteed. An active setup is also much more complicated than a passive setup and can be more expensive depending on the equipment you select (You have to have a separate amplification channel for each speaker, and a 4-channel amp will cost more than a 2-channel. You also need an active crossover, but that's taken care of with your H701. However, the price of DIY drivers can offset the increased cost of bigger amplifiers and more sophisticated crossovers).
This isn't a very good explanation really. Check out the sticky thread at the top of the section. It contains some great info.
A properly installed active setup will generally perform better than a passive setup. However, this is not guaranteed. An active setup is also much more complicated than a passive setup and can be more expensive depending on the equipment you select (You have to have a separate amplification channel for each speaker, and a 4-channel amp will cost more than a 2-channel. You also need an active crossover, but that's taken care of with your H701. However, the price of DIY drivers can offset the increased cost of bigger amplifiers and more sophisticated crossovers).
This isn't a very good explanation really. Check out the sticky thread at the top of the section. It contains some great info.
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