Best place to get signal for my line out converter on my 2015 mazda 6

lazrguira

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Hello all,

I have a question. I recently had a subwoofer installed On my factory 11 speaker Bose system.

When my installer first tried to hook up the LOC to the rear Deck speakers he noticed that he couldn't get any low frequency's to the sub because the Bose amp has the hole rear of the car crossed over for highs and mids only.

He then proceeded to get the signal from the front door subwoofers which worked just fine. But now I want to add a 4 channel amp to add some speakers in the rear of the car. so my question is: if he got the signal from the front subs, then there may be a possibility that signal is only crossed over for lows.

So if I go from the "outputs" of my sub amp to the "inputs" of my 4 channel amp, I may not get a full range signal for high's and mids right?

Where is the best place for him to grab the signal? Before or after the Bose amp?

I think before. That would probably be the cleanest signal.

here is a link to my system incase you need it. just scroll thru the pages.

2014 Mazda6 wiring diagrams - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum

I have all my 4 channel and speakers coming hopefully by Friday and I want to know if I should have him re-wire the LOC to a different location.

Thanks in advance.

 
If your installer doesn't know where to hook it up, go somewhere else. In your case the best spot would be before the amp, straight from the hu.

 
I'm sure he does but I want to make sure that's all. He was telling me that instead of taking apart the whole front to get to that back of the radio that It would be better if he can get it near the amp . Right before it goes in to the amp. which is pretty much the same thing. since the amp is pretty accessible.

 
you need to get an internal summing LOC like an LC6i or ZXSum8 than you'll have one set of full range low level outputs to go into the 4 channel than use the output into the sub amp.

also, for your installer not to know this is a bad sign. the first bad sign is when he didn't get the signal right the first time. it's an 11 speaker oem system, he should have recommended a DSP instead of a LOC.

 
For what I want to do I don't need a DSP. I just need to rewire my LOC before bose my amp so I can have a full range signal from the HU.

Then I can add another amp thru my sub woofer outputs.

Yes I know I won't be able to control the 4 channel amp thru the radio (fade,balance etc)and yes I know It's not the proper way to do it.

And No. the new 4 channel amp will not be powering any of the bose speakers. Stock Bose amplification will remain the same.

The stock Bose system will remain the same except for the rear deck speakers which will be eliminated and replaced by 3.5" coaxials.

Yes, I know there not the loudest but trust me it will be a lot louder than what's there know. Was I can fit without cutting into the sheet metal.

The other 2 channels will be powering a custom small enclosure that will have 2 3way 6X9s for when I pull down one of the rear seats.

Crazy?? maybe but I bet its going to sound awesome! I'll post pics when I'm done.

 
you're another noob trying to tell someone that you know more than they do. it's gonna sound like chit b/c you don't know what you're talking about or what you're doing. do you know what a LOC is? so how are you going to pull signal before the amp than go into the LOC in your car that has 11 channels of sound processing when you couldn't even pull sub signal correctly?

 
Could have saved north of 3k on car payments by getting a basic 4 system and spent that on something that will actually sound wayyyy better than what you're proposing here, op. Smh

 
lol.... Ok I'll keep you posted when I'm done. Gimme a week. Waiting on some stuff.

And for the record. This isn't my first rodeo with sound systems. I have done more installs than I can remember. I just never delt with integration with factory systems. Especially Bose.

I've always done full installs the rite way with aftermarket radios and speakers which makes things so much easier.

 
lol.... Ok I'll keep you posted when I'm done. Gimme a week. Waiting on some stuff.
And for the record. This isn't my first rodeo with sound systems. I have done more installs than I can remember. I just never delt with integration with factory systems. Especially Bose.

I've always done full installs the rite way with aftermarket radios and speakers which makes things so much easier.
And you don't know how to install a loc?

 
NEVER NEEDED ONE. And the question wasn't about how to install a LOC. It was about re-wiring mine and getting a full range signal from MY BOSE system.

 
For what I want to do I don't need a DSP. I just need to rewire my LOC before bose my amp so I can have a full range signal from the HU.Then I can add another amp thru my sub woofer outputs.

Yes I know I won't be able to control the 4 channel amp thru the radio (fade,balance etc)and yes I know It's not the proper way to do it.

And No. the new 4 channel amp will not be powering any of the bose speakers. Stock Bose amplification will remain the same.

The stock Bose system will remain the same except for the rear deck speakers which will be eliminated and replaced by 3.5" coaxials.

Yes, I know there not the loudest but trust me it will be a lot louder than what's there know. Was I can fit without cutting into the sheet metal.

The other 2 channels will be powering a custom small enclosure that will have 2 3way 6X9s for when I pull down one of the rear seats.

Crazy?? maybe but I bet its going to sound awesome! I'll post pics when I'm done.
SOunds like you have it all figured out not sure why you posted asking for opinions.

 
Not really asking for opinions. I was hoping that perhaps someone that does this every day for a living would have already been familiar with my system & chimed in and told me the best place to grab the signal to save me a ton of time on research.

Since my car is so new, wiring diagrams are not easy to find. Install shops sometimes have access to this information.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
I don't know anything bout Bose OEM's but a quick search finds this

*from Mazda speed forums:

grey w/ red stripe (FR-)white w/ red stripe (FR+)

grey w/ black stripe (FL-)

white w/ black stripe (FL+)

solid grey (BR-)

solid white (BR+)

grey w/ white stripe (BL-)

white w/ purple stripe (BL+)

Once you have your diagram, tap your line out converter (loc) into your rear channels. Just a side note: even though the bose amp does the factory tuning and both the front and rear speaker levels are flat from the head unit, it's good habit to tap into the rear speaker levels for those situations where the tuning happens in the factory hu. You'll need to tap into the remote turn on as well either behind your hu or at the bose amp. Hook up your rcas from your loc to your amp, your remote signal, run your power and ground, then hook up your power to the battery. Viola!

Some people like to tap into the sub speaker levels but by then the bose amp has done it's **** and is limiting the frequencies. Let your after market amp do its job and filter from s full range signal. Then as soon as you can, scrap the bose 89 cent speakers, install a real system and the really enjoy your music.
Misc stuff:

replacing Bose HU: http://www.fuzzycats.com/docs/bose_replacement.pdf

http://www.miata.net/garage/nbaudio/4H60%20Diagram.gif

Need help installing amp/subs to stock bose system. - Mazda 6 Forums : Mazda 6 Forum / Mazda Atenza Forum

Very happy after adding a sub to the Bose system - Mazdaspeed Forums

Overall, I recommend you check out Mazda speed forums or mazda6 club forums, it appears many there have already ran into and solved problems like this. Sounds like Bose is a sucky oem system to mess with. Rip it all out and start out fresh is what I would do. Typically in car audio forums, you won't get much help when it comes to unorthodox audio upgrades. I remember years ago when I first got my 2005 Civic, it had been years since I did any car audio. I just wanted a tad more low end to my factory setup. Heck a couple of 6x9's with good bass was all I was looking for and I got reamed hard at forums like this, at the time I didn't want much but it's serious **** in forums like this.

 
Ok. Here's and update on my Custom Rear Fill project with Factory BOSE system for those who said it couldn't be done. Still not done. Decided to upgrade to Kicker CX 600.1 (currently have the CX 300.1) and possibly a ported box for more bass. Lets see what the new amp will do first.

I have removed the Bose 3.5" Rear deck speakers "only", and replaced them with 3.5" pioneers ( 10x louder) which are being driven by my Alpine 4 channel now instead of Bose amp.

I also installed some 6x9"s that I had laying around brand new in box which are also being driven by my Alpine.

Keep in mind that I'm still running the complete Bose system still. This is just something I felt like doing so I wouldn't have to remove the factory Bose system on my brand new car.

If I could do it all over I would have definitely ordered the car without the Bose system.

But I will say that it sounds absolutely Great! Loud as hell. and very Clear! So loud that I need to upgrade the bass now to keep up with the highs. (good problem to have)//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif.

Here's some pics.















 
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lazrguira

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