Best Internal Amp Receiver

most alpine units have a decent rms rating on the head unit, but once you start geting loud, it will distort, you could find a cheap 4 channel and amp kit for like 100 dollars, just do it man, and yes my other posts werre jokes.

 
most alpine units have a decent rms rating on the head unit, but once you start geting loud, it will distort, you could find a cheap 4 channel and amp kit for like 100 dollars, just do it man, and yes my other posts werre jokes.
Thney had better amps in them before. They used V-drive and had 26rms supposedly. Now all their decks don't have the V-drive and only push 18RMS according to Alpine.

 
Upon searching the following had V-Drives.

CDA-7863

CDA-7864 (2000)

CDA-7875

CDA-7893

CDA-7894

CDA-9813 (2003)

CDA-9815 (2003)

CDA-9833 (2004)

CDA-9835 (2004)

 
Upon searching the following had V-Drives.
CDA-7863

CDA-7864 (2000)

CDA-7875

CDA-7893

CDA-7894

CDA-9813 (2003)

CDA-9815 (2003)

CDA-9833 (2004)

CDA-9835 (2004)
V-Drive Hybrid Amplifier: A V-Drive MOSFET power unit is used to boost the incoming voltage from 14.4 volts (approx.) to 17.2 volts. The increased voltage allows the unit to deliver peak output of 60 watts x 4 channels. While providing high power output, this unit can draw a substantial amount of current, so the constant power wire must be connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery in your vehicle. For more info, please see the "Wiring Note" section below.

Wiring Note: While providing high power output, this unit can draw a substantial amount of current. Per Alpine, this receiver's constant power wire must be connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery in your vehicle, and 10-gauge wire must be used to make the connection. This requires a length of 10-gauge power cable, an in-line fuse holder with a 20- to 30-amp fuse and a ring terminal (the ring terminal is used to connect the cable to the battery clamp). Although all the pieces of a basic amplifier wiring kit will not be not needed, if you do not wish to assemble the required items separately, the power wire and in-line fuse holder from a basic 10-gauge kit can be used to connect the constant power wire to your vehicle's battery. For a secure, permanent connection, the 10-gauge cable must be soldered to this receiver's 16-gauge constant power wire.

Is this really necessary? Why use 10 guage wire if the receiver's power wire is only 16 guage? If I have to it would be like installing an amp which defeats the purpose of buying a high powered receiver.

Thanks so much for letting me know about the V-Drives.

 
V-Drive Hybrid Amplifier: A V-Drive MOSFET power unit is used to boost the incoming voltage from 14.4 volts (approx.) to 17.2 volts. The increased voltage allows the unit to deliver peak output of 60 watts x 4 channels. While providing high power output, this unit can draw a substantial amount of current, so the constant power wire must be connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery in your vehicle. For more info, please see the "Wiring Note" section below.

Wiring Note: While providing high power output, this unit can draw a substantial amount of current. Per Alpine, this receiver's constant power wire must be connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery in your vehicle, and 10-gauge wire must be used to make the connection. This requires a length of 10-gauge power cable, an in-line fuse holder with a 20- to 30-amp fuse and a ring terminal (the ring terminal is used to connect the cable to the battery clamp). Although all the pieces of a basic amplifier wiring kit will not be not needed, if you do not wish to assemble the required items separately, the power wire and in-line fuse holder from a basic 10-gauge kit can be used to connect the constant power wire to your vehicle's battery. For a secure, permanent connection, the 10-gauge cable must be soldered to this receiver's 16-gauge constant power wire.

Is this really necessary? Why use 10 guage wire if the receiver's power wire is only 16 guage? If I have to it would be like installing an amp which defeats the purpose of buying a high powered receiver.

Thanks so much for letting me know about the V-Drives.
Well because 10ga should be readily available by amp wiring supplies. I would use 10ga. Yes it is necessary. These units had considerable more draw on the electrical and I personally wouldn't want them to draw what they do through stock wiring and harnesses.
 
Yeah, I had a 9833 also until some short pecker theft stole it while I was inside Best Buy. Never used the internal, I had it switched off for sq purposes. The ones I suggested at first will do fine. Why waist an awesome Eclipse or Alpine just to run internal amp. This guy doesn't seem like he's that serious about this anyway.

 
Yeah, I had a 9833 also until some short pecker theft stole it while I was inside Best Buy. Never used the internal, I had it switched off for sq purposes. The ones I suggested at first will do fine. Why waist an awesome Eclipse or Alpine just to run internal amp. This guy doesn't seem like he's that serious about this anyway.


Seriously, are you serious about me being serious. The two 15" subs powered by two PHD2 amps are pretty serious ****. I will amp the highs when it is not 115 degrees.

Thanks for helping out, seriously.

 
I live in Phoenix and it is above 110 degrees from now until September.
Dry heat isnt that hot...

110in Phoenix is like 80 here, BTW i use to live in Sierra Vista for a while and never thought it was that hot even when it was 110+...But thats besides the point, pay somebody to do it

 
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