Best DVC wiring for an underpowered amp?

[Methereaper]

Well, i've fought with this for a few months before giving up on it.

I bought a Sondpex 2 10" box from a pawn shop and threw out the junk speakers in it. My brother bought me an ebay bundle of 2 10" Boss Phantoms that are 2100 watts each that came with a Boss Armor 1600watt amp and a wiring kit.

I've never been big on Dual Voice Coils, blown out a nice set of Audiobahns trying, so i've always wired them like you would a normal speaker. (+ to +, - to -).

Put the subs in, wired up the amp to my capacitor, and tried it out. When you'd turn the remote past 1/4 of the way it'd go into protection. Took the box out, disconnected all the mid and high speakers it had thinking there was a short, tried again, same thing. Did some more tinkering and they started working, hit hard enough to rattle my hatch and the neons were flashing nice and bright.

Next day, it started going into protection.

Upgraded power wire from battery to the cap (1/0), still the same thing. My best setup was 2 12" Kicker CVR Comps (the old, old ones) with an American Legacy Red series 500 watt powering one and a Lightning Audio Strike 500 watt running the other, and that was with 4 gauge wiring throughout.

I tried running a single of them with a MA Audio Hard-Kore 1800watt amp, which i think is a mono block, and it even sent that into protection.

So, maybe i'm doing something wrong, actually i'm pretty sure i am, but here's the specs of everything.

Car: 1992 Geo Tracker

Replaced the alternator with a junkyard one awhile back, puts out mid 14's to low 15's according to the cap. No big three.

Subwoofers: 2 Boss Phantom P106DVC's

2100 watts peak/1050 watts RMS

Frequency Response: 35Hz-2.2KHz

Sensitivity: 96dB

Impedence: Dual 4 Ohms

Amplifier: Boss Armor Series AR1600.2

2 Channel

Full-Range, Class A/B

800W x 2 Max Output 2ohms

1600W x 1 Bridged 4ohms

So, any suggestions on how to wire the subs? I'd tried them at 2ohms and 4ohms, but same thing.

Do i need a bigger/better amp? I'm sure i need the big three, but my current system is running pretty good without it and it's a 3500W sub on the 1800W MA amp.

Any help is apprectiated, thanks for viewing.

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[CrossoverOre 10+ year member]

wire to 4 ohms as that amp is not 1 ohm stable. also try removing the cap from the equation and see what you get. I would also get a dmm and test ground connections continuity voltage levels and ohms load of the subs. volt meters on caps are not necessarily as accurate as a dmm.

 

[Methereaper]

Alright, thanks for the help.

The weather's a little iffy here, but i got the box in the house so i'll re-wire it tonight and try tomorrow.

I plugged a Fluke dmm i had into the wires to the speaker last time i had them hooked up and it only read 2-3.4 volts. Is that normal? I hooked it up to my current amp's output and it was in the mid 30's and the warning light started flashing. Is either of them normal, or is the other amp blown?

 

[Methereaper]

Update: Got rid of half the wiring in the box, whoever did it didn't know what they were doing, and i checked the wiring on the subs. They were already set for 4ohm, so i went outside and hooked them up.

The amp they came with continues to go into protection with both hooked up or a single hooked up. Plugged the 1800w MA amp into one and it started hitting a little bit. If i turn the volume up or the gain on the amp it would begin to pop (think it's called clipping), i think that's because it's underpowered.

So, i think i'm going to sell them to a buddy of mine and tell him to get a good amp or at least two 2000w and not to use it until then so he doesn't blow them up. I'll probably be the one helping him wire everything, so if anyone has more ideas, i'd appreciate it.