best amp that draws little power

Alpine PDX m12, 1200 rms at 2 or 4 ohms. I'm running 2 of them and a PDX f4, I have a big 3 and optima blue under the hood and a kinetic in the back and I don't drop below 13.8 with a stock alternator

 
Amp designs like the Alpine PDX, and the JL Slash series, that put out the same power in a range of impedances, is inherently inefficient. This is because their power supplies are tightly regulated. Even Manville Smith of JL Audio has said that efficiency was sacrificed for SQ/performance.

Barring the use of one of the tightly regulated amps like mentioned above, efficiency isn't going to change much (with a few exceptions). Most amps on the market, including Class D's and A/B's, are going to be about 80% efficient at full tilt. Amps = watts/volts. Multiply this by 1.2 to find the approx maximum continuous power the amp you chose will draw.

There really is no such thing as a 1000-1200 watt amplifier that 'wont draw much current'. I guess its a matter of perspective, but somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 amps of current draw is a significant amount in my book. It usually requires at least some sort of work on the charging system to accommodate properly.

 
Amp designs like the Alpine PDX, and the JL Slash series, that put out the same power in a range of impedances, is inherently inefficient. This is because their power supplies are tightly regulated. Even Manville Smith of JL Audio has said that efficiency was sacrificed for SQ/performance.
Barring the use of one of the tightly regulated amps like mentioned above, efficiency isn't going to change much (with a few exceptions). Most amps on the market, including Class D's and A/B's, are going to be about 80% efficient at full tilt. Amps = watts/volts. Multiply this by 1.2 to find the approx maximum continuous power the amp you chose will draw.

There really is no such thing as a 1000-1200 watt amplifier that 'wont draw much current'. I guess its a matter of perspective, but somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 amps of current draw is a significant amount in my book. It usually requires at least some sort of work on the charging system to accommodate properly.
really? last year i ran a hifonics brutus 2010d(rms 2000@ 1 ohm) which is over rated, it ran off 1/0 gauge power and ground, dimmed my lights, dropped my volts to 11.8 at idle on big bass hits, now i run 2 pdx m12's rms 1200@4 ohms birth at 1300+, run off of 4 gauge power, i have the same electrical as last year, no alternator upgrade yet, and i sit steadily at 13.8-14 volts with a legit +800 watt increase in power. i have to argue that the pdx amp is very efficient

 
really? last year i ran a hifonics brutus 2010d(rms 2000@ 1 ohm) which is over rated, it ran off 1/0 gauge power and ground, dimmed my lights, dropped my volts to 11.8 at idle on big bass hits, now i run 2 pdx m12's rms 1200@4 ohms birth at 1300+, run off of 4 gauge power, i have the same electrical as last year, no alternator upgrade yet, and i sit steadily at 13.8-14 volts with a legit +800 watt increase in power. i have to argue that the pdx amp is very efficient
80%-85% efficient. Pretty decent efficiency actually. I thought its design was similar to the JL Slash series, but obviously not.

 
IMO it's not worth hunting for something that's 5% more efficient than something else and paying twice the price for it. The slight difference in efficiency between amp A and amp B isn't going to make a huge difference.

 
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