Batterys

[Mr FaceCaser]

So how do you determine what battery you need? Like if a battery has 200 AH what does that mean? If a battery says 4000 watts max does that mean? I see battery's that are 200 AH but 4000 watts max what does that exactly mean

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

This is great vid on the subject:

 

[Mr FaceCaser]

This is great vid on the subject:

Okay thank you

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Okay thank you

For your setup, I would advise on a series 2 or 3, use contingent.
I have a series 1 because it was the only one in available for preorder. If I was pulling more than say 7000 watts, a series 2 or 10000 watts, a series 3 would have been the better choice.

Since they were all up to the task, the series one with its 96AH and current above what i need by a good 100A, was an easy choice. It gives me tons of reserve for messing around for an hour without the car running. Not something I would do very often anyway and usually not something anyone does with an extremely high wattage system.

 

[Mr FaceCaser]

For your setup, I would advise on a series 2 or 3, use contingent.
I have a series 1 because it was the only one in available for preorder. If I was pulling more than say 7000 watts, a series 2 or 10000 watts, a series 3 would have been the better choice.

Since they were all up to the task, the series one with its 96AH and current above what i need by a good 100A, was an easy choice. It gives me tons of reserve for messing around for an hour without the car running. Not something I would do very often anyway and usually not something anyone does with an extremely high wattage system.

It was a great video but it didn't really explain wattage on some of the battery. I'm just really confused how you know what battery you need for what setup is amp hours × voltage or no I just don't really understand how to tell and what wattage and ah mean on a battery. For instance my XS superbank is 4000 watts max what does that exactly mean is that 4000 watts max continues power. Just kinda confused

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

The xs unit you're referring to is a super capacitor, not a battery. Super capacitors are used in applications requiring many rapid charge/discharge cycles, rather than long-term compact energy storage.

Ampere hours (ah) is the amount of energy charge in a battery that enables 1 ampere of current to flow for one hour. Another way of saying it is that 1 Ah is the rating indicating how much amperage a battery can provide for one hour. A higher amp hour battery does really have more capacity.

Additionally, they typically last longer than smaller Ah batteries for the same amount of power consumption. A 4Ah battery has twice the capacity of a 2Ah battery, which makes it more durable under the same conditions, that is, it can provide longer use time. That wattage taint is a guide to indicate that the Battery can provide that amount of power. It also depends on if you’re talking motor off or motor on.

Higher AH batteries tend to have less continuous and instant discharging whereas the higher amperage units tend to have lower AH or storage capacity. With the Glows as an example, the series 1 will be okay up to around 460+ amps but can do it with spare capacity over a longer period of time whereas the series 2 is in-between and the 3 is purpose built for gobs of continuous/instantaneous power for s shorter period of time with almost no storage.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

As for wattage, you take the amperage they are rated at, times the voltage they're rated for to get the wattage they support. A 500A draw at 14.4 is around 7200 watts, 6900 at 13.8V 6000 at 12v, etc.

 

[Mr FaceCaser]

As for wattage, you take the amperage they are rated at, times the voltage they're rated for to get the wattage they support. A 500A draw at 14.4 is around 7200 watts, 6900 at 13.8V 6000 at 12v, etc.

Okay so to get the wattage a car audio battery can run times the voltage by the amps. And thank you for your explanation

 

[Mr FaceCaser]

As for wattage, you take the amperage they are rated at, times the voltage they're rated for to get the wattage they support. A 500A draw at 14.4 is around 7200 watts, 6900 at 13.8V 6000 at 12v, etc.

Also why do glow voltage say 12,000 watts when the discharge is 500-600a if we take the 600 × the 13.8 that's 8k watts so that means that battery can do a continuous 8k watts with no problems right?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

There is a difference in burst rate and continuous, It was explained to me once by glow, I forget the math, but what they say is accurate for sure. I was using simple math, like what you use to predict wattage but the fusing on an amp. An amp with four 4 30A fuses is going to potentially put out around 1728 watts (1382 at 80% efficiency) and so on.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

If you ever come close to pulling 500A continuous I'd be shocked! I don't think people understand just how loud that is. That's like blow your windows out loud - and I'm not talking flex, I'm talking about the window popping out and landing 10 ft away.

 

[Mr FaceCaser]

If you ever come close to pulling 500A continuous I'd be shocked! I don't think people understand just how loud that is. That's like blow your windows out loud - and I'm not talking flex, I'm talking about the window popping out and landing 10 ft away.

Okay cool well I'm definitely looking into those voltage guys. I don't need one quite yet but will when I upgrade my sub amp and get the new mid range speakers and all that witch would be around 6k rms in just amps know I know I won't get that much output but it'll be loud. Thank you for your help

 

[Mr FaceCaser]

Okay cool well I'm definitely looking into those voltage guys. I don't need one quite yet but will when I upgrade my sub amp and get the new mid range speakers and all that witch would be around 6k rms in just amps know I know I won't get that much output but it'll be loud. Thank you for your help

Last thing to make sure I understand. So if my amp is pulling around 22 amps and I get a 300AH then that would be 13 hours. (This is for just a example)

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

The issue with regular lithiums like LiFepo4's, like solar batteries you see, LiFepo4 batteries is they have 25-50, 100 or 200 BMS control units on them which is fine if you don't expect to exceed the burst rate they are rated for. For instance, a $250 100ah LiFepo4 from Litime will give you enough burst current up to 285A but only for about 5-7 seconds before the BMS kicks in an limits it to prevent damage to the lithium bank. That's because they are not geared to audio but are fine with systems that draw less than continuous BMS rating. The Glow or other Lithium Titanate batteries are designed without those limitations in mind. Start with the amount of wattage it will cover then get the most storage you can afford in that range that is tailored to the use. If you don't need off motor hours, then any really good lithium bank that provides enough continuous power is fine. The series 1 is better capacity and good output, the 2 is for greater output and about half the reserve and the 3 is what I deem a competition bank, balls to the walls power but little reserve. If you only need support for a 5000 watt system, no need for the series 2 or 3. Keep in mind that you can get all of it if you want to plunk down serius cash and get 4 of any of them in a series parallel configuration, but why would you unless you have a 50000 watt system and 4 alternators, which you don;t.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Last thing to make sure I understand. So if my amp is pulling around 22 amps and I get a 300AH then that would be 13 hours. (This is for just a example)

Well yeah, didn't check your math but yeah, something like that.