Audiobahn

[hrtbrk1 5,000+ posts]

hey there...i know its not all that of a brand but i have a lot of experience with some of their stuff...but im no professional and i wanted to know if anyone tried their class ab amps...do u know their efficiency level..i have one but i dnt know how to measure the efficiency..if someone can give me a rough estimate..id be glad...also if u need help with their products...just pm me

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[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

that's what the user's manual is for. Wouldn't buy any of their products though.

 

[hrtbrk1 5,000+ posts]

its not in the manual

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

I'd just hit up their tech support then. Everyone here sees them as a joke, so I highly doubt you'll get any useful info.

 

[Duke 10+ year member]

Their tech support team is a joke. I used to run Audiobahn back when I didn't know anything about audio and that there were all these great internet brands. I spent $600 on an amp that was called a 2400 watt amp, but it barely did 1700. Then, it got stolen, and Audiobahn wouldn't even send me a copy of my registration and serial number.

There was a thread on some forum that had tons of different amps listed and their ACTUAL efficiency... there were some Assbahn amps in it. I'll see if I can dig it up.

 

[hrtbrk1 5,000+ posts]

what amp is that duke?...the only bad amp ive had with them so far was their so called 5000wrms amp...only did half the power...but other ones were only off by like 150wrms...200 the most

 

[skylineTT 10+ year member]

nobody hear really runs their chet because it sounds like dick and is built like trash. i think the only bahn product that got any good words was the old immortals.

 

[Ed Lester 10+ year member]

We ran the HC2400s before. I did manage to get 1800w out of one. It was the flame amp. Very inefficient. about 55%, It was a current hog. You can measure efficiency very easily.

At full power play a test tone. 60hz will do. Measure the DC voltage on the input and also measure the DC current draw on the power input. Multiply these numbers and it will tell you the wattage input.

If I remember correctly the 2400 we tested had a voltage drop from 14.2 volt to 12.5 volts. So we use the 12.5v and multiply by the current draw which was like 260-265 amps. This gave us 3,312.5 watts of input.

Now we measure the output. Measure voltage and current on the AC output to the speakers.

I think we measured about 75volts AC and 24 amps output or so. This gave us about 1800w. and thats not even the RMS which would be about 1,272 watts because we multiply 1800 by the root mean square of .707.

Now 1800 is about 54-55% of 3,312.5

Not very good at all.

 

[hrtbrk1 5,000+ posts]

oh i c...ive never had trouble with their high current amp...i had the hc1300 and it did wonders for me...id didnt sound clean but power was about 1125wrms(audio shop result) at 1 ohm...problem was it got hot...i think its cuz ive only used older models...

 

[Duke 10+ year member]

I had a A2300HCT. Listed as 2400 watts. Had 160 amps of fusing on it, and if you see here, there really isn't much to the amps. Only good thing about it was how cool it kept (cooling fans too). I could beat on it all day and I never had thermal problems with it (running at 1 ohm). Everything worked on it after a year or so of purposeful abuse. The little clipping indicator was always red which supposedly means clipped signal. Good amp if you can get it for $200-$250 and don't care about anything but loud obnoxious bass. Definitely not worth the price that dealers charge.

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

I had a A2300HCT. Listed as 2400 watts. Had 160 amps of fusing on it, and if you see here, there really isn't much to the amps. Only good thing about it was how cool it kept (cooling fans too). I could beat on it all day and I never had thermal problems with it (running at 1 ohm). Everything worked on it after a year or so of purposeful abuse. The little clipping indicator was always red which supposedly means clipped signal. Good amp if you can get it for $200-$250 and don't care about anything but loud obnoxious bass. Definitely not worth the price that dealers charge.

The reason it clipped is because you probably had to crank the gains way to high to pull that much power out of it. I think it's pretty sad that my 1000w Orion amp has as much or more guts than that 2400w amp

 

[Duke 10+ year member]

I didn't have the gain set too crazy. I don't remember what I had it at, but I had set it with a DMM and a tone. I just didn't care that it was clipping. It would get pretty loud, but to get that unbearable loud, I'd have to crank it until that red light came on. I still can't believe I wasted $600 on that piece of turd.

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

I didn't have the gain set too crazy. I don't remember what I had it at, but I had set it with a DMM and a tone. I just didn't care that it was clipping. It would get pretty loud, but to get that unbearable loud, I'd have to crank it until that red light came on. I still can't believe I wasted $600 on that piece of turd.

That's what I'm getting at. To get rated power, you had to crank the gain to the point of clipping. Not a sign of a good amp

I'm really sruprised it even lasted a month with a clipped signal. Could have easily fried your subs too.

 

[hrtbrk1 5,000+ posts]

oh well...what year is that amp?

 

[Duke 10+ year member]

That's what I'm getting at. To get rated power, you had to crank the gain to the point of clipping. Not a sign of a good amp
I'm really sruprised it even lasted a month with a clipped signal. Could have easily fried your subs too.

Cooling system was the only good thing about that amp. It was The first or second year they did the flame bling bs.