At what point is sound deadener necessary?

[Mills561 10+ year member]

I'm going to be running ~1000 watts to a 18" AA Havoc in a Chevy Trailblazer (SUV). I'm not really planning on going to competitions or anything just wanting a nice daily driver set up. Will sound deadening make that much difference? I do worry about doing the doors as I'm running a set of CL comps but what about the cargo area? Hope you guys have some good input, thanks.

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[outsideshot23 10+ year member]

hell yeah man. People put it on their cars just to cut down road noise if nothing else. Ya it will make a difference in there. Not a hugely noticable difference. You can usually get 1-2 dbs depending on what you are hitting already and how thoroughly and how many layers you put on but if for nothin else it keeps road noise down. and if you got a car it will keep rattling down. A car is going to rattle

 

[Bob Saget]

my opinion?

Yankees > Marlins

Panthers > Dolphins

dog poo > Heat

Tar Heels > Kansas

 

[outsideshot23 10+ year member]

my opinion?
Yankees > Marlins

Panthers > Dolphins

dog poo > Heat

Tar Heels > Kansas

we dont give a ****

 

[Mills561 10+ year member]

my opinion?
Yankees > Marlins

Panthers > Dolphins

dog poo > Heat

Tar Heels > Kansas

get out of my thread with that bullshit

alright well what are some of the good brands out there and how much do I roughly need? links to products would be great

 

[SmartAsss 10+ year member]

alright well what are some of the good brands out there and how much do I roughly need? links to products would be great

Second Skin, Don's from sound deadner showdow, Ramm audio, Dynamat, Cascade Audio.. only ones I know that are made with rubber instead of tar.
You only need to cover 1/4 of a panel to get 90% of the dampening effect so don't get carried away otherwise your basically wasting money. The foil type deadner will do VERY little for road and wind noise, It only stops sheet metal from resonating. for road/wind noise you need to use what is called MLV (mass loaded vinyl) and a decoupler like open or closed cell foam.

 

[DBz Hertz 10+ year member]

Second Skin, Don's from sound deadner showdow, Ramm audio, Dynamat, Cascade Audio.. only ones I know that are made with rubber instead of tar.
You only need to cover 1/4 of a panel to get 90% of the dampening effect so don't get carried away otherwise your basically wasting money. The foil type deadner will do VERY little for road and wind noise, It only stops sheet metal from resonating. for road/wind noise you need to use what is called MLV (mass loaded vinyl) and a decoupler like open or closed cell foam.

The MLV and decoupler thing had me confused on sound deadener showdown. I need both the vinyl/nitrile closed cell foam AND the mass loaded vinyl barrier? On top of the CLD tiles?

 

[daboyfrumdabx 10+ year member]

Send Don an email and tell him what your goal is, he'll be glad to help you understand/choose what you need for the job.

 

[DBz Hertz 10+ year member]

Here's an excerpt of the e-mail I received back from Don..

If you'll give me a FEW measurements I can estimate what you will need and describe how I would treat each area:

1) Height and width of front door exterior sheet metal.

2) Height and width of front door interior trim panels.

3) Height and width of rear door exterior sheet metal.

4) Height and width of rear door interior trim panels.

5) Height and width of the kick panel/front foot well outer sides.

6) Width of the floor (include the sides and top of the center tunnel if there is one and the height of each outer sill).

7) Distance from as far up the firewall as you can reach to the front edge of the front seats.

8) Distance from the front edge of the front seats to the front of the base of the platform for back seat.

9) Height and width of the vertical riser running from the floor to platform the back seat sits on.

10) Length and width of the back seat platform.

11) Height and width of the wall behind the back seat if there is one.

12) Length and width of the roof.

13) Length and width of the sun roof (if any).

14) Length and width of the cargo area floor.

15) Depth and diameter (depth, length and width, if not circular) of spare tire well.

16) Height and width of the rear quarter panels.

17) Height and width of cargo door exterior sheet metal.

18) Height and width of cargo door interior trim panel.

19) City and zip for shipping.

Thank you.

I'm scared.

 

[6.5LDiesel 10+ year member]

I have him all the measurements and ordered to do a older diesel truck, he helped me out alot and had the stuff in a day (3 boxes) and did both doors and ext cab. It made a HUGE difference...I used the amount of CDT tiles he recomended, MLF and CCF and it improved SQ alot..

 

[SmartAsss 10+ year member]

The MLV and decoupler thing had me confused on sound deadener showdown. I need both the vinyl/nitrile closed cell foam AND the mass loaded vinyl barrier?

MLV is the barrier, it does all of the sound blocking, it will not do its job if it is in direct contact with a resonating panel. You need to have a decoupler to prevent this, this is where the foam comes in. The foam prevents the mlv from touching the resonating metal and stops the transfer of sound through the MLV. The foam by its self does nothing. It only creates a air gap. But yes you do need both because they compliment each other. You can use anything that will have the same effect as the foam, like carpet padding, batting, or what ever else you can come up with that creates an air gap.
I don't know if that helps understand a little better, I can try to explain a little better if not.

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

Here's an excerpt of the e-mail I received back from Don..

If you'll give me a FEW measurements I can estimate what you will need and describe how I would treat each area:

I'm scared.

I know. "few" is sort of meant to be funny, but it's the only way I can give you an accurate estimate. It also lets me list how much of each material to use for each area and describe how to install it. When I first started the business I was worried that people wouldn't be willing to do it. Hasn't been a problem. Most vehicles take about 10 minutes to measure. It'll take me 1/2 hour to prepare the estimate and then it's going to take you 2 days to do a full treatment. Turns out 10 minutes isn't that big of a deal, especially when the alternative is to just tell people to buy twice as much as they're going to need to be sure. Truck owners are the fastest. I've had a few come back with all the measurements in about 5 minutes //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif