Are the JBL amps (1200/1 + 80/4) good?

[beachboy016 10+ year member]

Im looking at the 1200/1 amp to run two JL audio 10 w3's and the 80/4 to power 4 speakers, probably JL but not sure. Are these good amps? Will they make my subs hit really hard?

Thanks,

-Jeff

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[KoBan715 10+ year member]

Both amps are awsome. You cant go wrong with JBL. Best bang for the Buck.

 

[Jeff 10+ year member]

I have a 600.1 and the 80.4, and have had no problems with either. Nice bang for the buck like koban said. You may experience power problems though, my lights dim pretty bad at night.

 

[qballis 10+ year member]

This might sound pretty stupid, but how would you run (2) subs off of a mono-amp (1200/ 1 channel)?

 

[beachboy016 10+ year member]

You can wire two subs together to get a mono load

 

[beachboy016 10+ year member]

I have a 600.1 and the 80.4, and have had no problems with either. Nice bang for the buck like koban said. You may experience power problems though, my lights dim pretty bad at night.

Hey Jeff,

I have an 89' Jeep Cherokee, do you think I will be dimming really badly?

Thanks

 

[Jeff 10+ year member]

The bp amp is a class d, which is more energy effecient that others (a/b). I would think with that kind of power, in any class amp, you would need to beef up your electrical system. I have a bp600.1 and the p80.4 in a 1999 GMC Sierra truck. Those are the only aftermarket electrical items that I have, and it punishes my headlights when it is cranked up with a lot of bass. Under normal listening levels it seems to be o.k. My sugesstion would be to put it all in and see what happens. You can always get your alternator re-wound for higher output (I will have mine done one day). That's what most suggest. I would't use a capacitor, to me that's just a bandaid approach. My owner's manual says the 1200.1 and the 80.4 have a maximum current draw of 114 and 43 amps respectively. That's a healthy blow to an electrical system, especially since most vehicles have around 100 or so amps of output with a stock alternator. Hope this helps.

 

[Mr. Loki 5,000+ posts]

I wouldn go with the 1200.1 its the best for the price. Lost of power and will definetly push your jl's like jeff said though it will put strain on your battery. I would up the battery size to about 900cold crank amps wind the alternator and (even jeff says no) try a batt cap of about 1.0 to 1.5 and locate it as close to the amp as possible with the least amount of wire for better use!!

 

[bootleg 10+ year member]

Any DCX vehicle that new (MOPAR 71+) will have a stock altenator of 75-80 amperes at idle. I run a 1200.1 and a profile that draws 40 amps. Total I draw around 150 from all of my stereo, cd player and amps. I think you'll be good to go as long as you got the bigger engine(the 4.0).