AQ2200D fried, try to find out how!

[DBDRAGGUY 10+ year member]

If it sounded like it was out of phase, then it was. Each amp has a master/slave switch and this sounds like they were not set correctly.It is easy to overlook when you are excited and want to get your new amps installed.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

Well you can blame AQ then because that is how he told me to set it up to quickly determine if there is a fault in the settings somewhere.

Turn stereo up 3\4, turn gain up 3\4, slowly start turning remote gain up til u hear somethin.

I had it up halfway and was barely gettin anything, sounded like it was around 114db at best.

I was previously doing testing with a setup in the range of 110-120db.

Again, it may have been clipping but this is what i was told to do and was barely outputting a signal.

I know the alt isnt big enough but the alt is not the problem until i start getting these to work.

Then i'll swap it for the 300A alt that's waiting for me.

If the subs could possibly be out of phase.... please enlighten me on how that's possible with this setup.

And again again again, there is BARELY any output, barely any draw can only come from that, no low voltage problem.

If someone is implying low voltage issue... then that means the amp(s) had to be pulling enough power to drop the voltage however low it would take, but with barely any power output, that would put these amps at what.... 10% efficient? at best...

No way, don't buy it whatsoever.

And for the difference in voltage from front to rear....

Of course i'm gonna have a voltage drop.

Anyone will unless you feel like running runs and runs and runs of wire.

My connections, from the front battery, pass through 2 fuses, 2 solenoids, batteries, another fuse then to the amp.

0.3v is pretty good in my opinion.

They were not set incorrectly.

I have installed plenty of setups before.

I do not get "excited" about installing my own equipment because install error can occur.

I verify and reverify everything, especially with batts in the back.

Master set to output master, slave set to input slave.

When we switched the slave to master, the amp outputted a high pitched warning to the subs letting us know that the amps are capable of dispersing sound to the subs, but we just couldnt get the signal from the head unit to get the amps to work effectively or else i wouldnt had to have crank it up to almost full blast just to barely get anything out of them.

 

[DBDRAGGUY 10+ year member]

Well you can blame AQ then because that is how he told me to set it up to quickly determine if there is a fault in the settings somewhere.
Turn stereo up 3\4, turn gain up 3\4, slowly start turning remote gain up til u hear somethin.

I had it up halfway and was barely gettin anything, sounded like it was around 114db at best.

I was previously doing testing with a setup in the range of 110-120db.

Again, it may have been clipping but this is what i was told to do and was barely outputting a signal.

I know the alt isnt big enough but the alt is not the problem until i start getting these to work.

Then i'll swap it for the 300A alt that's waiting for me.

If the subs could possibly be out of phase.... please enlighten me on how that's possible with this setup.

And again again again, there is BARELY any output, barely any draw can only come from that, no low voltage problem.

If someone is implying low voltage issue... then that means the amp(s) had to be pulling enough power to drop the voltage however low it would take, but with barely any power output, that would put these amps at what.... 10% efficient? at best...

No way, don't buy it whatsoever.

And for the difference in voltage from front to rear....

Of course i'm gonna have a voltage drop.

Anyone will unless you feel like running runs and runs and runs of wire.

My connections, from the front battery, pass through 2 fuses, 2 solenoids, batteries, another fuse then to the amp.

0.3v is pretty good in my opinion.

They were not set incorrectly.

I have installed plenty of setups before.

I do not get "excited" about installing my own equipment because install error can occur.

I verify and reverify everything, especially with batts in the back.

Master set to output master, slave set to input slave.

When we switched the slave to master, the amp outputted a high pitched warning to the subs letting us know that the amps are capable of dispersing sound to the subs, but we just couldnt get the signal from the head unit to get the amps to work effectively or else i wouldnt had to have crank it up to almost full blast just to barely get anything out of them.

Doesn't sound like a voltage issue. When strapped if the switches are not set correctly it will have little or no output because your - leads are tied together. The master amp + terminals are positive and the slave amps + are the negative. And the - terminals from both amps are wired together. I did this when I first set mine up and had the same symptoms. I knew immediately something was wrong and turned it off and checked it, and quickly found my problem.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

If there is more than one driver, you can always have something out of phase. Even with a single DVC sub you can get stuff out of phase. All it takes is one connection to be backwards like the + to + on a sub that you are trying to wire the two coils in series on. You can dump power into that all day with almost no output.

Then while you were trying to overcome the phase cancellation (which you will never do) with more power, trying to get the output you expect, the voltage drops. Doesn't matter that the SPL isn't there, the amps were still putting out power and thus still pulling current and with your stock alt, that would mean a voltage drop.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

exactly, you now how these get wired up.

See, while i was at the shop, i was gonna just hook one up... but i quickly remember that i would have had to rewire all the speaker leads and said, forget it, if i do that, i'll do it at home... unfortunately i never made it home in working order.

But yet, i have it wired exactly like this, 100% this way-

MASTER amp-

Power running to battery bank fused @200A(2/0 wiring)

Remote Wire ran from a distribution block, distro block fed by a relay that is powered from the head unit's remote turn on wire.(12 gauge wiring)

Ground Wire ran directly to frame of car(2/0 wiring)

Speaker terminals-

Negative Left - ran to Slave's Negative Left.

Negative Right - ran to Slave's Negative Right.

Positive Left - Ran from sub 1's positive wire

Positive Right - Ran from sub 2's positive wire

Remember this-

I got 2 dual 2s.

I wired each sub in series resulting in each sub reading 2.8 ohms.

So i now have 1 positive and 1 negative wire remaining from both subs.

since AQ amps have dual positive and negative terminals, i didnt have to splice the wires together so i was able to run all 4 wires, 2 positives and 2 negatives to these amps without having to use small wire and jump terminals.

Slave Amp-

Power Wire fused @200A ran to battery bank (2/0 wiring)

Remote Wire ran from Master amp into slave amp(12 awg wiring)

Ground Wire ran directly to negative terminal on battery 20" long(2/0 wiring)

Speaker Terminals-

Negative Left - ran to Master amp's negative left

Negative Right - ran to Master amp's negative right

Positive Left - ran to sub 1's negative wire

Positive Right - ran to sub 2's negative wire

RCAs come from head unit and go into MASTER amp.

a single rca jack runs out of the master and goes into the slave for daisy chaining.

Master amp is set for Output Master

Slave amp is set for Input Slave

I already went over this over the phone but now u guys know.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

Ok helotaxi, thanks for explaining that, i understand what u are saying now and the possibility of that happening.

Now, let's talk about this phase issue.

If it were out of phase, then there would be an incorrect impedance reading on the amp terminals, correct?

This is what i read before powering up the stereo-

Dual 1.4s, each wired in series 2.8.

I then took each sub and wired it's positive to the master amp and their negative's to the positive terminals of the slave amp.

I then whipped out the dmm again to verify that everything was good-

The negative and positive terminals inside are bridged together and this is what i got and how they were tested-

Positive probe on master's negative left terminal

Negative probe on slave's negative left terminal

Result - 0.0 ohms

Positive probe on master's negative right terminal

Negative probe on slave's negative right terminal

Result - 0.0 ohms

Positive probe on master's positive left terminal

Negative probe on slave's positive left terminal

Result - 1.4 ohms

Positive probe on master's positive right terminal

Negative probe on slave's positive right terminal

Result 1.4 ohms.

So i tested EACH coil before i even started wiring them together as well.

ALL 4 coils read 1.4 ohms.

Wired in series, each sub was at 2.8 ohms.

Can't be a phase issue now, correct?

 

[patrick1202 10+ year member]

Well you can blame AQ then because that is how he told me to set it up to quickly determine if there is a fault in the settings somewhere.
Turn stereo up 3\4, turn gain up 3\4, slowly start turning remote gain up til u hear somethin.

I had it up halfway and was barely gettin anything, sounded like it was around 114db at best.

I was previously doing testing with a setup in the range of 110-120db.

Again, it may have been clipping but this is what i was told to do and was barely outputting a signal.

I know the alt isnt big enough but the alt is not the problem until i start getting these to work.

Then i'll swap it for the 300A alt that's waiting for me.

If the subs could possibly be out of phase.... please enlighten me on how that's possible with this setup.

And again again again, there is BARELY any output, barely any draw can only come from that, no low voltage problem.

If someone is implying low voltage issue... then that means the amp(s) had to be pulling enough power to drop the voltage however low it would take, but with barely any power output, that would put these amps at what.... 10% efficient? at best...

No way, don't buy it whatsoever.

And for the difference in voltage from front to rear....

Of course i'm gonna have a voltage drop.

Anyone will unless you feel like running runs and runs and runs of wire.

My connections, from the front battery, pass through 2 fuses, 2 solenoids, batteries, another fuse then to the amp.

0.3v is pretty good in my opinion.

They were not set incorrectly.

I have installed plenty of setups before.

 

I do not get "excited" about installing my own equipment because install error can occur.

 

I verify and reverify everything, especially with batts in the back.

 

Master set to output master, slave set to input slave.

 

When we switched the slave to master, the amp outputted a high pitched warning to the subs letting us know that the amps are capable of dispersing sound to the subs, but we just couldnt get the signal from the head unit to get the amps to work effectively or else i wouldnt had to have crank it up to almost full blast just to barely get anything out of them.

well apparently YOU did something wrong or the amp was messed up.

why did you need aq if you knew what you were doing.

it prolly was a

voltage drop

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

u may be right after helotaxi explained things but if not a phase issue... dont know.

However, voltage drop or not, still need to figure out why it was refusing to receive a proper signal.

The shop hooked up a portable test tone generator to the master amp and it outputted nothing...

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Phase and impedance have nothing to do with each other. Use a DMM and test the DCR of a subs coil. Now reverse the leads on the DMM (put the + to the - on the sub and the - to the +)The reading doesn't change. What the DMM can't tell you is polarity which is absolute phase.

 

[basssquared 10+ year member]

Pwned

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

well then if they were out of phase, then it was manufacture defect.

You know speaking of that, the first sub i ever got from AQ was defective.

Inside of the sub, the negative of coil 1 was connected to the positive of coil 2.

So when i wired the sub in parallel, i got 0.0 ohms.

They of course replaced it.

Well enough speculatin, i'll let you know what the tech says tomorrow.

 

[Apocalypse boy 10+ year member]

well apparently YOU did something wrong or the amp was messed up.why did you need aq if you knew what you were doing.

it prolly was a

voltage drop

lol at you...even if the voltage dropped to 10v, he still would've heard something more than he did.

 

[DJL 10+ year member]

well then if they were out of phase, then it was manufacture defect.
You know speaking of that, the first sub i ever got from AQ was defective.

Inside of the sub, the negative of coil 1 was connected to the positive of coil 2.

So when i wired the sub in parallel, i got 0.0 ohms.

They of course replaced it.

Well enough speculatin, i'll let you know what the tech says tomorrow.

The first sub you got from us did not have the negative of coil one connected to the positive of coil 2. The lead wire was shorted on the basket frame. We changed to the 4 spoke basket ater that ONE lead wire failure and never had another lead wire short on the basket frame.

I do recall telling you last night before the amp smoked to quit what you were doing and let our tech talk with you today. A very short time later you called and told me the amp smoked.

Send us the pictures you mentioned along with BOTH amps and we will find out what happened. If the amp was defective we will send you a new one. It's impossible to speculate the failure mode with any authority before we inspect the amp and determine how you actually installed the amps and associated wiring,etc.

Rule# 1 If you are installing the equipment yourself and things arn't going right stop what you are doing and give our tech a chance to talk you through the install.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

went back out to try and get the master amp to work and it didnt output anything either.

I didnt wanna try to max everything out like i did before but i do know that i clamped the power cable and it was only reading 1.7-2A with gain halfway remote max and stereo on 13 of 35 so i know somethin had to be happenin by then.

I switched the leads of one of the subs around to see if they were out of phase and it made no difference.

I'm speculatin here but if the master isn't drawing any more because it isnt outputting anything, i'm still curious what happened to the slave amp...

Time will tell.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

feelin sick right now so cant get a 100% answer but i was able to get the master amp to work properly.

And, as i originally thought, it was a signal issue.

I dont have time to find out exactly what it is but i did not install that part of the setup so i'm gonna have to go back and see what is goin on exactly back there at a later time.