AQ2200D fried, try to find out how!

i meant jacked. stolen. kiped. jewed. blacked. ripped off. peached. etc.

But i was joking. it's called a pun. Obviously you bought it from a reliable source from the post.

and it could have very well been just a bad amp, damaged in packaging and shipping, or faulty from the very beginning.

It is being replaced right?

 
Audioque is already aware of this so while i wait for shipping, i wanna know if u guys can think of how this happened before i have to wait a week before they tell me.

I have 2 AQ2200ds strapped together.

The power light was always on on both amps so no reverse wiring there.

They never went into protect.

Voltage sitting at 13.5v

Gain half way, subsonic all the way down, lpf at 110hz.

Preout voltage 4v, preout maxed out on head unit, Sub output is turned on, bass is on +3 boosted at 80hz.

I was on the phone with AW and everything was verified that everything was hooked up 100%.

Even the resistance on the terminals read 1.4ohms so everything was perfect.

Turned on the stereo, had to crank it very loud just to get an "ok" sound out of the setup.

What did it sound like?

sounded like the subs were out of phase...

But that couldnt be because they are wired in series, then parallel so out of phase is impossible.

We checked the rcas, everything had a perfect connection.

We left this song playing for about 15 seconds....

All of a sudden, the slave amp just completely started smokin.... BAD.

The entire underside of the amp, all vents on the bottom and both ends of the amp were venting smoke.

Immediately turned the car off and disconnected the remote wires.

The master amp is fine but both are being shipped back...

So, what do u guys think may have happened?

IT is a signal issue but how could a signal issue cause that kind of damage?
What kind of subs are you running at 110hz lp?

Preouts maxed will clip the signal.

Why are you running bass boost with 4400+ watts?

 
What kind of subs are you running at 110hz lp?
Preouts maxed will clip the signal.

Why are you running bass boost with 4400+ watts?
Yeah I noticed that as well. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
i am not car audio illiterate.

Not to come off as an *** but i have no other way to put it.

They were set like that because we were trying to just try and get a signal through the amps.

That's not my typical setup...

I own an oscope, but never got around to use it if the equipment isn't functioning properly.

LPF was set high to ensure a large enough band of frequencies was capable of being sent through the amps.

I have 2 HDC312s Dual 2 ohm.

The 1.4 impedance was measured AT THE AMP TERMINALS.

1.4 is the DCR. There isn't going to be a 2 ohm...

After impedance rise, impedance will never fall at or below 2 ohms.

4 ohms is typically- 2.8, 3.0, 3.2, 3.6, 3.8 or 3.9 ohms.

2 ohms is typically - 1.2, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 1.9 ohms

Those are all normal readings from a speaker rated at 2 or 4 ohms.

 
i am not car audio illiterate.
Not to come off as an *** but i have no other way to put it.

They were set like that because we were trying to just try and get a signal through the amps.

That's not my typical setup...

I own an oscope, but never got around to use it if the equipment isn't functioning properly.

LPF was set high to ensure a large enough band of frequencies was capable of being sent through the amps.

I have 2 HDC312s Dual 2 ohm.

The 1.4 impedance was measured AT THE AMP TERMINALS.

1.4 is the DCR. There isn't going to be a 2 ohm...

After impedance rise, impedance will never fall at or below 2 ohms.

4 ohms is typically- 2.8, 3.0, 3.2, 3.6, 3.8 or 3.9 ohms.

2 ohms is typically - 1.2, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 1.9 ohms

Those are all normal readings from a speaker rated at 2 or 4 ohms.
Take out the o-scope. I would bet money you clipped the shit out of the inputs.

Not saying that caused the amp to fry. Those things do happen and can be bad out of the box no matter who its from. But just saying in general.....

 
oh, the signal coming from the head unit, i definitely bet it was clipped.

The clipping indicator on the remote control never came on so it wasnt anything detrimental.

Subsonic was all the way down for the same reason the lpf was up so high, tryin to get as much frequencies as possible to come through since it wasnt responding to low volume.

 
yea it does...
This is in a new car so the computer controls the regulator.

The voltage up front is at 13.8v.

Voltage in the rear is 13.5v

With a total of 490A worth of fusing back there(sundown 100.4 also back there), 0.3v drop isn't that bad.

the amp might have been hot?

Dont know, cant reply back to that because i never touched it.

Why would one get hot and the other not?!?!

Well, we may not be able to find the culprit of the problem so i guess i'm just gonna have to wait.

Their master tech is gonna be callin me tomorrow.
Is that the Cadence Protection Unit you are using? Let me know.

Also. Did you ever monitor the voltage when you where playing them?

If so what was the drop? FullTilt.

Just trying to help you out a bit.

 
oh, the signal coming from the head unit, i definitely bet it was clipped.
The clipping indicator on the remote control never came on so it wasnt anything detrimental.

Subsonic was all the way down for the same reason the lpf was up so high, tryin to get as much frequencies as possible to come through since it wasnt responding to low volume.
You trust the safe controls of your equipment too much.

You say things CAN'T, COULDNT, or WEREN'T without personallly witnessing them or checking them.

My money is on some sort of install issue. Very complex setup there, I would have installed 1 amp made sure it was working properly then added the strapped amp... but hey thats just me

 
yes they did why?

trust me man, my 100w amp is louder than this because i used it to do box testing in this vehicle before.

I have minimum of 4,400w of power at hand and it wasn't as loud as this small amp.

Crossover settings are irrelevant and have nothing to do with this problem.

with that little output, even without safety products, it couldnt have been pullin hardly anything for what it output. Impossible for the voltage to drop to severe levels.

I don't want to speculate, just wanted to see if anyone had experience with weird problems like this and knows some concrete facts about it.

I'll be takin some pics tomorrow and sendin them to AQ.

 
You said it couldn't be out of phase because you were wired series/parallel...hate to rain on your parade, but yes it could. From the sounds of things it was.

You said that the gain was set halfway, also. With 4V preouts and the gain halfway I'd bet you were clipping the thing to hell and back regardless of what the clipping indicator said.

You also assume that the low voltage cutoff was working without verifying it. I've seen amps smoke from undervoltage when they started prematurely clipping and overcurrented the power supply.

 
You said it couldn't be out of phase because you were wired series/parallel...hate to rain on your parade, but yes it could. From the sounds of things it was.
You said that the gain was set halfway, also. With 4V preouts and the gain halfway I'd bet you were clipping the thing to hell and back regardless of what the clipping indicator said.

You also assume that the low voltage cutoff was working without verifying it. I've seen amps smoke from undervoltage when they started prematurely clipping and overcurrented the power supply.
Thats 1 of the reasons why i asked him what i did.

 
Yea it seems like user errr to me... Like maybe a voltage drop.... a 100a alt is pretty small for 4500+ watts.... also with the front battery reading different from your back battery then maybe there is a disconnection somewhere in between.....

or out of phase would be the other guess

 
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