Aq hdc4???

It seems like the more efficient subs can't handle that much power (do not count the DDZ). If you're trying to get as loud as possible with a limited amount of subs and have gobbs of power, I would think you'd want to use all the power you can.
Driver and install dependent. For example, one of the subs I'm running for MECA finals is more efficient than the other sub I have. It doesn't need nearly as much power to do the same score as my other sub. I can push both subs into compression, but the more efficient sub goes into compression more quickly. However, both subs do the exact same score when they're in compression. In my install, both subs can do the same score at full power. The sub that I compete with is the one that is louder with less power, it's more efficient.

 
Driver and install dependent. For example, one of the subs I'm running for MECA finals is more efficient than the other sub I have. It doesn't need nearly as much power to do the same score as my other sub. I can push both subs into compression, but the more efficient sub goes into compression more quickly. However, both subs do the exact same score when they're in compression. In my install, both subs can do the same score at full power. The sub that I compete with is the one that is louder with less power, it's more efficient.
Exactly, there's no need to push your gear to it's limits.

 
Efficiency > high power handling.
It doesn't make sense that so many people on here get boners off how much power a sub can handle. A sub can be a piece of shit (not loud), but still be able to handle a crap ton of power. I'll take the sub that will do the most with the least.
OMGeez, that's crazy talk Ben! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

I agree though, especially for a daily driver. I don't feel like pouring tons of money into my electrical, so that sub that can give me the response I want, as loud as I need it, and on the least power, will be the sub for me. Most of these high power handling monsters can't give me the fr I want anyways.

 
I can't really picture them taking that much daily...I'd love to be proven wrong though.
Road trip to Chicago and I'd be glad to show you //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif And I'm not saying I'm clamping 7kw per sub, just that I'm running 2 3500's per sub at 1ohm each. I only demo for 4-5 minutes at a time as the car does a 55-57 on music and your ears can only take so much before shutting down...

 
You know better than that.....sounding good is an opinion. You just trying to start shit, lol.
no its not.. when something sounds good its very low or no distortion.. your thinking about preferences like you rather country i rather screw..

if it sounds unnatural its not a good sound, its distorted.. which some people like but its not the definition of sound quality. IE reproduction of the signal as intended...

 
i'm sorry but for a normal streetbeat application your going to fry those coils.. say what you want be your simply talking about less than 30% efficient in power transfer.. IE you have potentially 4k of HEAT the voice coil has to rid.. if you do some real testing measuring power compression you will see with a true 1k RMS they approach power compression(8 hours white noise) now for musical applications they are able to take around 2500 RMS just because its so dynamic.. other than that your talking out of your ***.. i have ran 3500 a REAL 3500 continuous for as long as i desired and they get hot within a few seconds.. i know this because you could watch the impedance rise slowly and smell the coils..

and the alum coils actually get hotter faster(if the use the same wire ga/windings) but there better because of the light larger guage windings..

this was with a better cooling and actually the same coils that DD uses.. one of the orginal HD3s..

 
chances are one of the subs are more ideal in that box. if you want to keep pushing the barrier.. your going to add more mass and stiffer spiders IE transfer is going to go down some and power handling becomes increasing important..

the most efficient woofer is rarely the loudest unless you simply don't have the power/electrical.. while having good efficiency is a great start the enclosure makes the largest difference along with power handling capabilities with motor strength being the next factor..

 
Skipping all the questions.

I am going on pure RMS ratings from the company. The HDC3 is rated at like 1500 i believe correct. Yes, you can throw more at it just like the sundown NS v.1, but what is the point of under rating it so much then. There isnt, he needs to actually get his RMS ratings correct and then make a bigger sub. Thats my stand point. I liked my AQ amps, just dont like the subs so much.

 
IIRC most manufacturers(at least the popular underground ones that I can think of) rate their subs based on continuous power handling for a given amount of time. So unless you're playing pure sine waves, you can theoretically play music with a good deal more power on tap in order to feed it more power during the musical peaks in the song, so long as you're not pushing it past mechanical limits.

 
chances are one of the subs are more ideal in that box. if you want to keep pushing the barrier.. your going to add more mass and stiffer spiders IE transfer is going to go down some and power handling becomes increasing important..
the most efficient woofer is rarely the loudest unless you simply don't have the power/electrical.. while having good efficiency is a great start the enclosure makes the largest difference along with power handling capabilities with motor strength being the next factor..
Very true, although you can switch the importance BL and rms handling depending on what you're working with power wise.

 
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