anyone disable the afm on their chevy??

[southernboom88 10+ year member]

true, id research how that check engine light can effect the computer and the performance factor.. in my experiance if say a mass air flow sensor buggs out and the dash light comes on, some computers will adjust the fuel ratio to compensate which will kill mgp.. hell, youtube it, there seems to be a video for everything these days. GL op!

 

[southernboom88 10+ year member]

yea they didnt have afm on the older ones...i dont wana do this for performance or speed i only want my voltage to stay up thats it ..when afm is engaged belt slows down and voltage drops to 13.1

ha spoken like a true BASS head! hope ya figure it out bro

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

ha spoken like a true BASS head! hope ya figure it out bro

Thanks bro

 

[jteske88 10+ year member]

telling you man, cant pull sensors car will run bad, I went through this already, gotta tune or run seprate alts, And its not that the rpms change its the alt sensing wire knowing it doesnt need to pull as hard and slows down. Did you know we have a battery saver mode also that will drop your cars volts to a 12.8? You have more issues comeing man

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

telling you man, cant pull sensors car will run bad, I went through this already, gotta tune or run seprate alts, And its not that the rpms change its the alt sensing wire knowing it doesnt need to pull as hard and slows down. Did you know we have a battery saver mode also that will drop your cars volts to a 12.8? You have more issues comeing man

Idk about ur car but on mine it has auto adjust tensioner and when the afm kicks in ...as long as im not in afm. i will have no problem holding voltage ..havent encountered any battery saver mode...will be gettin a 300a alt next week and already run a aq3500.1 on 2 hdc4.s

 

[jteske88 10+ year member]

go look at zzp voltage booster. there is diff stages but the first one is a volt higher. all it is a resistor inline of the sensing wire.

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

go look at zzp voltage booster. there is diff stages but the first one is a volt higher. all it is a resistor inline of the sensing wire.

So this is all i need ? lol and i can keep the afm enabled?

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

Trust me you don't want to disable or tune around this. It actually doest effect mileage considerably. What you want to do for the audio side, is add an external regulator alongside your after market alt to maintain 14.4+ constant.

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

Trust me you don't want to disable or tune around this. It actually doest effect mileage considerably. What you want to do for the audio side, is add an external regulator alongside your after market alt to maintain 14.4+ constant.

See i asked about external regulator but got mixed answers...so when i get my alt should i get external regulator? or looks like the stage 2 zzp voltage booster adds 1.2 v to alt charge ...opinions?? yea i dont mind the afm jus for car audio aspect...im more than likely gettin a mechman 270

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

See i asked about external regulator but got mixed answers...so when i get my alt should i get external regulator? or looks like the stage 2 zzp voltage booster adds 1.2 v to alt charge ...opinions?? yea i dont mind the afm jus for car audio aspect...im more than likely gettin a mechman 270

It won't help you when the computer completely shuts off the alt. The computer currently idles (clutches) the alternator to save on things that take "dry" horsepower. You will be strictly at battery voltage during the 3cyl phase. Every other person that's done this with any success has gone aftermarket with their alt and got an external regulator unit to maintain 14v+ from it. This will override the GM cpu from telling the alt to clutch and go idle. Had a local buddy w/ a new model Silverado. He had all kinds of hell with voltage until his A/M and Ext. reg came in.

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

It won't help you when the computer completely shuts off the alt. The computer currently idles (clutches) the alternator to save on things that take "dry" horsepower. You will be strictly at battery voltage during the 3cyl phase. Every other person that's done this with any success has gone aftermarket with their alt and got an external regulator unit to maintain 14v+ from it. This will override the GM cpu from telling the alt to clutch and go idle. Had a local buddy w/ a new model Silverado. He had all kinds of hell with voltage until his A/M and Ext. reg came in.

Yea im not lookin to do anything to the stock alt like i said will nost likely be getting a mechman 270 ..should i get the regulator from them or is there a better cheaper route for the reg. thats awesome news that it will overide the clutching of the alt

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

Yea im not lookin to do anything to the stock alt like i said will nost likely be getting a mechman 270 ..should i get the regulator from them or is there a better cheaper route for the reg. thats awesome news that it will overide the clutching of the alt

Aftermarket alt w/ ext regulator= audio problems solved.

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

Aftermarket alt w/ ext regulator= audio problems solved.

Thats too easy lol..like i said should i get the ext reg from mechman ? or whats a decent one to buy?

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

Get one from them. It is already designed to work properly w/ the alt and should give you 0 issues, whereas a third party one might. Would hate to screw up a good alt I just purchased trying to save $20 on the regulator (brains)

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

Get one from them. It is already designed to work properly w/ the alt and should give you 0 issues, whereas a third party one might. Would hate to screw up a good alt I just purchased trying to save $20 on the regulator (brains)

Yea true i havent even priced them tbh ..thanks for all the help