Another semi-lost noob thread...

[Flex68 10+ year member]

...and its ruff being this dumb! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

I need you guys to check me on my thoughts, below, in doing The Big Three and install for the following in a 2008 Ram 1500 quad cab:

Eclipse CD7200 MkII head unit

Kicker ZX700.5 amp (5-channel pushing rated 700WRMS, likely closer to 900+)

CDT Audio CL 62 Pro component 6.5 + 2 sets tweets, rated at 100WRMS (door or kickpanel mount, with upstage tweets in sailpanels or A-pillars)

JL Audio 12W3v3-2 rated for 500WRMS in FoxBox under rear passenger seat

I only have the factory 136A alternator, and I already have a bit of headlight dimming when I crank the A/C on full.

This makes me wonder if doing The Big 3 will suffice, or if I will need to upgrade to an OEM 160A, or an even larger HO alt. Your thoughts on this…?

Also not sure if it would be well advised to replace the existing battery for specialized, or add a 2nd battery… (?)

Based on the reading I have done, I was thinking 1/0 for The Big Three, 2 gauge for the Power wiring, 14AWG for speakers.

Does this sound reasonable?

Thanks to the Sticky on comparing wiring/mfgs I am looking at prolly going with either RF or Knu Kolossus for the Power wiring once I get all my measurements…

All assistance and suggestions appreciated, and thanks in advance!

Click to read more...

 

[lionfamlee Premium Member]

Have you already purchased these components? That system will def work.

What your expereincing with headlight dimming is voltage drop. As you know stock electrical systems are created to support the stock lectrical components (stock radio, A/C, etc). So you wouldn't expect that running the A/C would cause this, but it does. A lot of time it is due to the size of the wire under the hood (alternator charging wire, battery ground, battery to chassis ground). your 136 amp alternator may work with you set-up, although you alternator isn't producing 136 amps. You might get closer to that when you are at full tilt. See if you can find the spec on your alternator and see what the idle amerage is. Getting an 160 amp alt would only help your electrical system, but may not be needed. I almost always recommend doing the "Big 3" with true 0 AWG wire. Theres really no reason not too. That way if you upgrade to larger amps later you will not have to change that set-up plus it won't hurt your system to have 0 AWG. So I would do the "Big 3" and get a good deep cycle battery and see how much that helps your voltage and if you are still notice low voltage drops then look into upgrading you alternator. I usually recommend and install at least small second battery in most of the system I do for people (depending on the system specs). I would look around and price wire before you buy. I have used RF, Knu, Stinger, etc (all pure OFC) on my install and others. I started using 0/2 AWG welding cable from Trystar and and really like it. It's almots as flexible as the top car audio brands. You can customized the color and even get custom lettering to read whatever you want it to read on it. I have find it less expensive too. Are you talking about 14 AWG to your subs? That will work, but you can larger if you want. Refer to the specs on the amp. I like overkill on certain things.

I can post some pics on what the Trustar wire looks like if you want. Also, you can find several video tutorials on the internet for doing the "Big 3" yourself. Some are vehicle specific too. I have 3 or 4 "big 3" upgrade videos on youtube myself.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

i would get a 4 channel and mono block for speakers and subs.the comps are nice and you'll love them , just may need to deaden the doors a bit.i guess the jl woofers will be fine ,i just dont like jl products myself,but if you are buying them new ,better can be had for less.i did an 05 ram quad cab a few years back and 600 watts rms to the subs was fine and 60 x 4 rms to the doors.it sounded really clean and the sq was ok .if you haven't bought anything yet i can suggest some better stuff, just need a budget to go by first .

 

[Flex68 10+ year member]

Have you already purchased these components? That system will def work.
What your expereincing with headlight dimming is voltage drop. As you know stock electrical systems are created to support the stock lectrical components (stock radio, A/C, etc). So you wouldn't expect that running the A/C would cause this, but it does. A lot of time it is due to the size of the wire under the hood (alternator charging wire, battery ground, battery to chassis ground). your 136 amp alternator may work with you set-up, although you alternator isn't producing 136 amps. You might get closer to that when you are at full tilt. See if you can find the spec on your alternator and see what the idle amerage is. Getting an 160 amp alt would only help your electrical system, but may not be needed. I almost always recommend doing the "Big 3" with true 0 AWG wire. Theres really no reason not too. That way if you upgrade to larger amps later you will not have to change that set-up plus it won't hurt your system to have 0 AWG. So I would do the "Big 3" and get a good deep cycle battery and see how much that helps your voltage and if you are still notice low voltage drops then look into upgrading you alternator. I usually recommend and install at least small second battery in most of the system I do for people (depending on the system specs). I would look around and price wire before you buy. I have used RF, Knu, Stinger, etc (all pure OFC) on my install and others. I started using 0/2 AWG welding cable from Trystar and and really like it. It's almots as flexible as the top car audio brands. You can customized the color and even get custom lettering to read whatever you want it to read on it. I have find it less expensive too. Are you talking about 14 AWG to your subs? That will work, but you can larger if you want. Refer to the specs on the amp. I like overkill on certain things.

I can post some pics on what the Trustar wire looks like if you want. Also, you can find several video tutorials on the internet for doing the "Big 3" yourself. Some are vehicle specific too. I have 3 or 4 "big 3" upgrade videos on youtube myself.

I have already purchased the CDT CL Pro comps and the Eclipse HU, both off this Forum. The others are just the things I was planning to get.

Wish I could tell you for certain the idle amps on the O.E.M. alternator, but don't know. I have seen a couple of comments on one of the Ram forums stating that both the 136A and 160A versions only put out around 100A at idle...

I will def go with the large wire like you recommend when I do The Big 3, and your remark about the welding wire is very intriguing, too. I wonder how well it compares to the application-specific wiring from the mfgrs you named ? Would it likely be OFC?

You can def put up or direct me towards pics of the kind you are referring to, or zap me a PM. (Thanks!)

I think you are prolly correct that I should consider changing my existing batt for a better , deep cycle type. Just hate taking that much away from my component budget!

When I said that I was thinking about using 14AWG as speaker wire, I was thinking that size would be okay for both sub and components.... Yes?

Thanks a bunch for your comments!

i would get a 4 channel and mono block for speakers and subs.the comps are nice and you'll love them , just may need to deaden the doors a bit.i guess the jl woofers will be fine ,i just dont like jl products myself,but if you are buying them new ,better can be had for less.i did an 05 ram quad cab a few years back and 600 watts rms to the subs was fine and 60 x 4 rms to the doors.it sounded really clean and the sq was ok .if you haven't bought anything yet i can suggest some better stuff, just need a budget to go by first .

I have had several folks echo what you said about going with 2 separate amps. I was looking at the 5-channel for these reasons:

1) Kicker has solid ratings/reviews for this amp on most every site, and I like that they underpromise and overdeliver. (One guy bench tested his, and was pushing 1008W on a 700W rated amp; another poster was way over 900W);

2) The lesser space requirements in using this single amp, versus a mono + 4-channel; and,

3) I have not had much luck in locating 2 separate amps with similar ratings (500WRMS sub channel, and 85ish WRMS x 4 channels) that I can get into for the same amount of $$.

Since I haven't picked up an amp or sub yet, though, your suggestions are most welcome!

I am desiring predominately an SQ build, but want to have the option of getting loud when I have a wild hair up my azz.

My budget was to stay below $1500 for everything, and I have less than $1000 of that left after picking up the HU and comps.

From that remaining $$ I need to do the sound dampening ($200), pick up the wiring (guessing $100-200), the sub enclosure ($100-150), the sub ($170-180), and the amp(s) ($300).

Thanks a bunch for your comments!

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

are you doing 1 or 2 subs look at the dc level 2m2 or level 3 m2 if you like then pm me,also on the amps look at the massive nano amps, they are small amps with alot of power and really efficient. got with a mini amp then you can save 100 on the wires and get a kit for 100 shipped ,hell i have a 4 gauge ofc kit in stock now,with the extra rca's and distro block for 100 plus shipping.180 for a sub or subs ,you may wanna look used or go smaller ,like 10's or 8'sas for dampening ,get a hold of argent audio,he had some cheap a while back .he may still have some.here;s one http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifier-classifieds/530388-bnib-massive-audio-nx4.htmlhttp://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/mono-amplifiers/87326-massive-audio-n4-2.html and a mono block .last post was 350 obo shipped for it

 

[lionfamlee Premium Member]

The Trystar cable is pure OFC and its 0/2 AWG so its the same size as the over-sized Knu, Stinger, etc. You can get it for half the price of the top notch wires. The company will do a custom print on the skin. There are 30 colors to choose from. It is really flexible. I got red and grey for the pos and neg for one car, Green and black for another, and finally light blue and white on my third car. I will post some pics later.

 

[Flex68 10+ year member]

are you doing 1 or 2 subs look at the dc level 2m2 or level 3 m2 if you like then pm me,also on the amps look at the massive nano amps, they are small amps with alot of power and really efficient. got with a mini amp then you can save 100 on the wires and get a kit for 100 shipped ,hell i have a 4 gauge ofc kit in stock now,with the extra rca's and distro block for 100 plus shipping.180 for a sub or subs ,you may wanna look used or go smaller ,like 10's or 8'sas for dampening ,get a hold of argent audio,he had some cheap a while back .he may still have some.here;s one http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifier-classifieds/530388-bnib-massive-audio-nx4.htmlMassive Audio N4 - Page 2 - Car Audio Classifieds and a mono block .last post was 350 obo shipped for it

The Level3 is closer to the RMS ratings I am considering, so I may check into it a bit more closely. (I am looking for only one, 12" sub that works in a tight stealth enclosure)

Checked out the link to the amp, along with some reviews/comments on it. Pretty intriguing, but several commented on the fact it has gotten quite hot with extended running, esp the A/B side.

When you indicate I would save $$ on wiring by using this amp, what were you meaning? Smaller gauge required?

The mono sub at $350 you mention is already more $$ than the Kicker multi-channel, even without considering the 2nd, Nano amp, tho...

Monetary restictions suk. :grin:

I did drop a PM to Argent , thanks.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

well you dont have to go with mini amps if you dont want ,i use powerbass asa amps and they both still fit under the seat,in the middle,with a 10 " woofer on each side ,and they dont get hot at all.as far as that amp for 350 ,its been up for a while ,if you offered 300 he'd prolly take it .or i can try and get you a price on them too.i deal direct with massive too.