amplifier problem

ground is on top of the trunk? you need to make sure the ground is in a clean bare metal spot, preferably to the chassis and tight!

as for the mp3 player get a headphone to rca adapter ( walmart/radio shack for a few bux ) and plug it directly into the amp and see if the problem is still apparent.

if the problem goes away you have a bad or shorting RCA cable. if it does not go away it may just be your ground... do that and let us know...

 
let me restate that. It is in the back of my trunk, on this metal frame behind the seats.

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those are some quick photos i took...hope they give u a good feel for how it looks like...

 
Ok so i just tested out the amp and had an expert look at it, result is that its fried. The guy told me that it was a ****** amp in the first place...now i dont know if i should have it sent back to soundstream or should i just sell it to someone who wants a blown amp and get a new one. This *****.

 
so if it's a crappy amp then i'm sure he had a better one to sell ya. when they ask you what size wire, that was asking what gauge (thickness of the copper wire itself). you're runing 2g wire you need 0g and glad to see they gave a site in here for ya to get it from...http://http://www.knukonceptz.com/. get a amp kit, then get like another 10ft so you can do your big3. i would also be runing a 2nd battery also.

 
Ok so i just came back from the electrician and my amp is fixed. But get this: the problem was that some connector in the amp like fell off because of the vibrations (its sitting on the box). Now that is a win.

 
Ok so i just came back from the electrician and my amp is fixed. But get this: the problem was that some connector in the amp like fell off because of the vibrations (its sitting on the box). Now that is a win.
Vibration can cause hell on amps if its close to your box or even mounted to it. Try to use some foam to put under the feet of the amp and then mount it. Can help reduce some of that.

 
No problem with the top of the trunk, so be as long as it's bare metal and secure.

I was using the top of my trunk for a while. It was bare metal, and **** secure. I had zero issues. The whole body / chassis THEORETICALLY is a single node, as such it shouldn't matter where the ground is, as long as it's a direct connection.

But, all cars are not made equal, and as such, you should always try to get it as close to the engine bay / chassis as possible.

EDIT:: OP, to me it looks like your ground is fine. Looks pretty secure to me, and it APPEARS to be bare metal. The quality is shitte, so I couldn't really tell.

 
Vibration can cause hell on amps if its close to your box or even mounted to it. Try to use some foam to put under the feet of the amp and then mount it. Can help reduce some of that.
x2.

Vibrations on ICs are death! Especially on massively manufactured units made overseas. They go for the quick-and-easy rather than strong way. As such, vibrations slowly chip away at the solder and cause loose connections. I think it's important to have proper vibration dampening on all amplifiers mounted in a car.

 
x2.
Vibrations on ICs are death! Especially on massively manufactured units made overseas. They go for the quick-and-easy rather than strong way. As such, vibrations slowly chip away at the solder and cause loose connections. I think it's important to have proper vibration dampening on all amplifiers mounted in a car.
I lost my lanzar opti drive 2 chan to this I'm pretty sure. I cant find anything burnt at all on the board but it still likes that protect, so I just think its loose somewhere.

 
I lost my lanzar opti drive 2 chan to this I'm pretty sure. I cant find anything burnt at all on the board but it still likes that protect, so I just think its loose somewhere.
Yeah. I mean, it might not be a blow fet or resistor. There's a lot of things that can possibly go wrong with these amplifiers. If you think it's vibration, go ahead and open the case and start wiggling things. If you notice something is wiggling, solder it back on.

The issue with a soldering joint that's been vibrated off is that you'll get intermittent function. And it all depends on how that amp functions. Some amps (like my Boss), once whatever it is that put it into protect fixes (I.E. Temperature) it goes out of protection mode. But most amps, once they're switched onto protect, they won't come out until the next power cycle.

But, if you think it's worth it, start fooling around. The worst you can do, honestly, is nothing.

Regardless of what anyone says on these forums, audio amplifiers are not that complex, nor are they that amazing.

The only difference in them is the choice of amplifying chips and the choice of heat sink.

 
yea im thinking about putting a think layer of mdf so the vibrations are distributed and then put my amp on tht. but off topic i noticed that my remote does not work, in fact the power light doesnt even go on...any ideas on why?? Its stilll bumpin hella loud....

 
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Oh ok yeah it's to lights on the remote,I'm not sure but I think so ,ok I will appreciate your help bro
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The CT's are nice, That Sundown is a a frik'n beast!
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I would try a pair of Bass Blockers on the rear speakers. I always place them on Coax. speakers generally, Should help quite a bit I like PAC ones...
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Ok, i will go on this option. Thanks a lot bro for the help, i really appreciate again, Cheers
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