Btw, coming back on the wiring kit...
I used to have other cabling sets in my car on the same equipment i had and it didnt became as clear as it should, this is what i used:
Normal powercables (1mm O) instead of current Caliber (10mm O glitched)
Real cheasy lineout set (2 times 1mm O on normal tulip) instead of current Caliber (2 times 8mm O with golded ends)
After replacing the cables i lost some ticks and high end scramblings so that helped a lot, next thing i did was replace any connector block with a golded safety switches block (*dont know the right english word*) and ofcourse the battery plugs itself are replaced with golded ones, after doing that i lost all noises (except the turbo sound) and everything became clear.
I think if you ask anybody who has a fair installation in his car if cables matter then his answer would be a big YES !
If you'r aiming for big power (good med/high with full base) then i wouldnt invest a whole lot for cabling nor for amplifiers, just buy / have a decent radio that gives a good 40w+ output and connect your speakers to that filtering all bass out, in your trunk just put an xplod or pioneer woofer with build-in amp (100w = 106db +/-), you'll find out that you'll gain a huge amount of pure and solid power without any distortions //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Anyway, when you get at a point where you use either a real amplifier (2 or more ports) you should put in the right cables //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif