What? No, it's not. Anyway, this thread isn't about that, so let's focus on what the OP is asking. That amp should be just fine for that sub.And what will that do? Its still gonna do what its gonna do at whatever ohm he has it set for
You say it like the gain controls the amount of power the amp puts out lol
And what will that do? Its still gonna do what its gonna do at whatever ohm he has it set for
If you want to buy budget amps, you will want to buy something with more power rather than getting something weak. You will never see 750 watts on music since music is dynamic, not a 50hz sine wave.At 2Ohm the specs on this amp are 750RMS, 93, you thinKing that's too much? Sub is rated at 500, but from what I've read there's room to play.
Fwiw, I'm new to this game, so I don't want to do something stupid (but from what I've read, unless you're forking out the dough for a high end amp, these amps often under achieve)
No ive never clamped tested an amp ive just gone off of what ive read on here about setting gains on an amp and everyone says its not a "volume" control and that its just to control the quality of the signal so it isnt clipping, i wasnt aware that having the gain lower that the necessary voltage will cause the amp to put out less power, i know after rise it wont be where wired to the desired ohm you first set it to. i guess i was wrong and i apologize Fly_Martinits exactly what it does. It matches the preout of the head unit yeah but for what? to tell how much AC voltage the amp puts out which determines the amount of power the amp puts out.
Ever clamped tested amps before?
depending on box, you'll have impedance rise so you wont even know how much power you are actually getting. If you are wired to 1 ohm you might actually be at 2-4ohms after rise. Only way to know is to clamp test with an impedance graph mapping out what rise is at what frequency and get a good idea of what your power draw/wattage output from your amp is.
Thanks for the suggestion on that one. Looks like I could pick one up for just under 190.I personally would run an American Bass VFL 26801 d myself..From experiencing thats a little Monster,and a great amp for the money..Just my 0.02 cents
You will be just fine with this amp.You will have a lot of breathing room as well,if you ever decide to go bigger or add another sub to your set up.A friend of mine/neighbor runs an Audio Technix DVC 4 ohm 12, rated at 400 rms sounds fantastic on it, as well as from time to time runs a 1 ohm load on a pair of American Bass XFL 10s and does excellent as well.Great amp,well built and plenty of power.Small foot print as wellThanks for the suggestion on that one. Looks like I could pick one up for just under 190.
If I ran the 26801 at 2 Ohm, I wouldn't have a problem overpowering that 10? (New to this arena, and still trying to grasp the concept of ohms/RMS/etc)
Thanks!
The install I did was on a 2006 x-cab Chevy with stock 140amp alt with one Orileys AGM battery under the hood and the Big3 in 0ga,with an American Bass VFL 150,4 along with this on the substage,,Infinity Kappa 6.5 mids, and CDT 25 tweeters, and Infinity Kappa 4x6 with caps in the rear doors..Swapping of 1 12" DVC Audio Technix Strato 12 in a 1.2 cu ft ported enclosure @35 htz,and from time to time, Two American Bass XFL DVC4 ohm 10s in 4,0 cu ft @32htz,No dimming issues and sounds excellent either wayThanks for the suggestion on that one. Looks like I could pick one up for just under 190.
If I ran the 26801 at 2 Ohm, I wouldn't have a problem overpowering that 10? (New to this arena, and still trying to grasp the concept of ohms/RMS/etc)
Thanks!