Amp getting pretty hot

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Stop overdriving the shit out of it.

That amp is designed to run at 2 ohms bridge (most stereo amps are not).

Probably poor air flow over the heat sinks under the seat, and being driven into sustained full clip. It's just a 300 watt amp. If you want more power, get a bigger amp.

It's only 300w @ 2 ohms? He needs 2 of those to power his L7.

I would advise investing in a mono block //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

L7 and 300watt? oups didn't read that. You probably are clipping the hell out the amp then

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

Like Buck said, get a 1k monoblock amp. You'll see a difference right away!

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Like Buck said, get a 1k monoblock amp. You'll see a difference right away!

x2. Or for his sake I'd just stick with a 750w amp @ 1 ohm.

 

[DidUHearThat? 10+ year member]

I hate the L7's. Everyone I've ever heard sounded like shit. Combined with an underpower/over driven amp and a rattling car = another ghetto machine.

 

[cleansoundzz 10+ year member]

That amps actual power is 800 watts x 1 @ 2 ohms bridged. That amp is severely underrated. It is more than enough for 1 L7. He doesn't necessarily have to max out the RMS rating on the L7 to get it to sound good. I would get a DMM and check the impedance going to the amp. The T3002 should have a fan on the inside of it as well. That could be the problem. I had a T5002 one time and the idiot from the car audio shop wired my old L7's at a .5 load mono and the amp got very very hot and shut off. Once I rewired the woofers the amp no longer got hot.

 

[cleansoundzz 10+ year member]

Plus it's a class A/B amp so it will be hotter than a class D amp.

 

[zhack 10+ year member]

don;t have any money, for another amp right now, and the T3002 puts out alot more more than 300. What should the immpedance going to the amp be...also, i have a few broken pcs lying around to i;m going to tear the fans out of them and put them around the amp to help it cool...

and its never clipped

 

[Xprime4 10+ year member]

and its never clipped

how do you know that?

 

[zhack 10+ year member]

how do you know that?

well, i dont know for 100% sure, but i havnt heard the sub clip at all

also im gonna to rig up some fan to help with air flow

 

[DidUHearThat? 10+ year member]

2 ohm is fine.

It's very hard to hear sub distortion. I'd bet money you are running it at 200%, full clip.

 

[TNTR70 10+ year member]

rf amps run hot...its what i've always run...no fans just throw some eggs and bacon on em'

 

[roarzorz 10+ year member]

That amp is fine @ 2ohms bridged. The 300watt rating is a bit of an understatement as it will do upwards of 800watts actual power output. The RF T series amps are designed for the heat to be pulled out to the outside of the amps like that. There's even a tech article about it.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scripts/rightnow.cfg/php.exe/enduser/std_adp.php?p_sid=t1OLc7uj&p_lva=&p_faqid=451&p_created=1115853534&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPTEmcF9ncmlkc29ydD0mcF9yb3dfY250PTE1JnBfc2VhcmNoX3RleHQ9JnBfc2VhcmNoX3R5cGU9MyZwX3Byb2RfbHZsMT05JnBfcHJvZF9sdmwyPTMwJnBfY2F0X2x2bDE9fmFueX4mcF9jYXRfbHZsMj1_YW55fiZwX3NvcnRfYnk9ZGZsdCZwX3BhZ2U9MQ**&p_li=

 

[zhack 10+ year member]

lol @ at bacon and eggs....and why do you assume its running @ 200%...its not 100% under powered, don't hav the birthsheet another but puts out over 600rms @ 2ohms bridged...if you don't belive check all other birthsheets for this amp

 

[kmanian 5,000+ posts]

100% the fact that it is a class A/B amp and your driving the hell out of it is why it is getting so **** hot, you would be much better off getting a decent class d