amp cuts out... but only for a sec

[*Ace* 10+ year member]

(which mean it pretty much always needs to see 13.5v+ to stay on). You fix this bye a second battery or a good cap

This isn't really true in any quality amp I ever ever dealt with. My Audioque 1200 for instance, is rated to be able to accept all the way down to 8 volts!! I can not confirm this, and will never be able to as I would never run any amp down that low lol, but I do trust Audioque as a company. But in real life situations, many people play their systems to where they are seeing 12 volts and even 11 volts on the regular without causing any harm to their amps. The amps will get warmer of course, but many continue to work properly. No decent amp should be turning off because they are only getting 13.5 volts.

I also would never recommend a cap, no matter which brand or model. I MIGHT recommend a very large battery if you occasionally bump your system at high levels for a very short time, but if you are doing this on the regular I would simply suggest a larger alternator.

 

[PocketRocket]

Yeah most amps are like that, with his amp its the truth...JL uses that style on all xd, hd, and slash amps. I see it all the time, if those amps don't see 13.3v or higher for to long that is what they do. They are awesome amps but its the truth

 

[*Ace* 10+ year member]

Yeah most amps are like that, with his amp its the truth...JL uses that style on all xd, hd, and slash amps. I see it all the time, if those amps don't see 13.3v or higher for to long that is what they do. They are awesome amps but its the truth

Again I just can't believe this without a source. If this were true that would mean you could not play music with the car off (would only get 12V) for a significant amount of time without the JL amp turning off. This seems highly unlikely and I have never seen this with my friends install who runs multiple JL amplifiers.

 

[PocketRocket]

Again I just can't believe this without a source. If this were true that would mean you could not play music with the car off (would only get 12V) for a significant amount of time without the JL amp turning off. This seems highly unlikely and I have never seen this with my friends install who runs multiple JL amplifiers.

Yeah I understand bro, call JL they will let you know if you really care. It's only late 2012 and all new in those series that do it. I do a lot of boat buisness and that's where I started seeing the problem, after going through a couple amps and tons of time I called my JL rep and he gave me all the info. He told me to get into the cheaper jx series or older xd series and it won't be a problem. He said that for the customes who are buying the higher end amps do it right a buy a 2nd battery and then you don't have a problem. Believe me I was shocked and didn't understand but have tried many times on my boards and sure enough those things shut off

 

[Rockguy475 10+ year member]

Well im mailing my amp back tomorrow. The front right channel has a defect and does not work. Never did so i had to wire both by front components into the front left channel. Weather or not this had anything to do with the amp cutting off I am sending it back bc i would like it to work how its supposed to for the prce I paid. I contacted the seller who IS a authorized JL retailer and he assured me everything is covered by warrenty and to send him the amp and it will be replaced. I unhooked the amp and had to connect my speakers back to my headunit for now but on a good note im upgrading my front components to the C5 series. (my buddy just got a new car and they wont fit so im getting them cheap cheap only 4 months used)

Anyways I went ahead and did the big 3 today with 4 gauge wiring and everything is working fine...... just ***** that now i have to wait for who knows how long till they send me a working amp.

 

[Rockguy475 10+ year member]

Yeah I understand bro, call JL they will let you know if you really care. It's only late 2012 and all new in those series that do it. I do a lot of boat buisness and that's where I started seeing the problem, after going through a couple amps and tons of time I called my JL rep and he gave me all the info. He told me to get into the cheaper jx series or older xd series and it won't be a problem. He said that for the customes who are buying the higher end amps do it right a buy a 2nd battery and then you don't have a problem. Believe me I was shocked and didn't understand but have tried many times on my boards and sure enough those things shut off

so if this is true and when they send me my new amp even though the right front channel will be fixed i may still have the cutting out problem. I got a brand new battery today and did the big 3 but i doubt that will fix it... sounds like i will need to get another battery so that 2 are installed. I cant believe they would cut out like that though...

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Hmm:wow:

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Well im mailing my amp back tomorrow. The front right channel has a defect and does not work. Never did so i had to wire both by front components into the front left channel. Weather or not this had anything to do with the amp cutting off I am sending it back bc i would like it to work how its supposed to for the prce I paid. I contacted the seller who IS a authorized JL retailer and he assured me everything is covered by warrenty and to send him the amp and it will be replaced. I unhooked the amp and had to connect my speakers back to my headunit for now but on a good note im upgrading my front components to the C5 series. (my buddy just got a new car and they wont fit so im getting them cheap cheap only 4 months used)
Anyways I went ahead and did the big 3 today with 4 gauge wiring and everything is working fine...... just ***** that now i have to wait for who knows how long till they send me a working amp.

I dont remember reading that there was an issue with the amp fromthe beginning of the posting..Could have been the Culprit all along.The Big 3 is better off being done in 0ga,but doing it in 4 ga,is better than not doing it at all.Though it should be fine for that one amp you are running.I hope you get the new amp,and that will be the problem solved..Good luck to you.

 

[Rockguy475 10+ year member]

I dont remember reading that there was an issue with the amp fromthe beginning of the posting..Could have been the Culprit all along.The Big 3 is better off being done in 0ga,but doing it in 4 ga,is better than not doing it at all.Though it should be fine for that one amp you are running.I hope you get the new amp,and that will be the problem solved..Good luck to you.

i dont think the defect in the right front channel had anything to do with it cutting out.... that would be awesome if it did as a new working amp would solve my problem.... Some guy in this post was saying that if the new JL amps go below a certain voltage they shut off... think it was 13.5? so in any case i may need to run 2 batteries in my car to solve the problem.... not sure though ill have to test the new amp out and see.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Most cars these days run from 13-13.9v with the ac/lights ect on,though Ive never heard of any amp shutting down at the 13.5v..Id have to research that one, but that is unheard of..Maybe 11.5v.you may have just not had the right amount of amperage to begin with,bad battery,bad alt,or just not enough amperage for the car, and aftermarket add ons.

 

[*Ace* 10+ year member]

Most cars these days run from 13-13.9v with the ac/lights ect on,though Ive never heard of any amp shutting down at the 13.5v.

Neither have I and I HIGHLY doubt that it's true. I'm sorry but these manufacturers design these amps for use in a CAR, which will see only 12 volts when turned off. They know people will occasionally play with the car off so it would make no sense to manufacture an amp that can only accept a minimum of 13.5 volts. I even emailed JL Audio to verify this, although I really didn't need to, because I'm 99% positive it isn't true lol

 

[Rockguy475 10+ year member]

Neither have I and I HIGHLY doubt that it's true. I'm sorry but these manufacturers design these amps for use in a CAR, which will see only 12 volts when turned off. They know people will occasionally play with the car off so it would make no sense to manufacture an amp that can only accept a minimum of 13.5 volts. I even emailed JL Audio to verify this, although I really didn't need to, because I'm 99% positive it isn't true lol

Could you please let me know if JL emails you back... knowing that would be great info. Ima do a little research myself and see if i can find anything. Hopefully my problem lies with the amp just being a defect and a new amp solving everything

 

[*Ace* 10+ year member]

Could you please let me know if JL emails you back... knowing that would be great info. Ima do a little research myself and see if i can find anything. Hopefully my problem lies with the amp just being a defect and a new amp solving everything

I'm going to tell you right now the 13.5v minimum thing is nonsense. Look at my first post and follow the instructions there. You need to set your gains the correct way. Do not have your friend set them, do them yourself. Your friend might think he knows a lot about car audio, but I can't tell you how many times I have heard that just to find out they were talking out of their ***.

Click the link I provided in my post, and when you have set the gains according to that, let us know if the problem is still there. This will only take you about 10-15 minutes and it's free. It's very quick and will help us further troubleshoot the issue.

 

[Rockguy475 10+ year member]

I'm going to tell you right now the 13.5v minimum thing is nonsense. Look at my first post and follow the instructions there. You need to set your gains the correct way. Do not have your friend set them, do them yourself. Your friend might think he knows a lot about car audio, but I can't tell you how many times I have heard that just to find out they were talking out of their ***.
Click the link I provided in my post, and when you have set the gains according to that, let us know if the problem is still there. This will only take you about 10-15 minutes and it's free. It's very quick and will help us further troubleshoot the issue.

will do but i need to wait for my amp to get back to me

 

[PocketRocket]

I understand everyone's doubt, becuase I had the same problem. But I'm not making it up, its the same reason why I can't do those amps in boats. But whatever