Amp, battery, and wiring concerns

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Taylor B.

CarAudio.com Newbie
I have been dealing with battery corrosion since I installed my system (positive terminal). I burned out my factory alternator after only a few months and replaced it with a new one with OEM specs. At the time, I wasn't sure if I should have opted for HO alternator so I settled on OEM specs for the replacement (I also wanted to avoid rewiring). Since I did not fix the problem the first time around, I want to fix it properly this time around. My system is far from glorious (below) but the trade off is that I don't have a very high demand for amps.

I would like to upgrade the alternator with higher output. The current spec is 110 amps. I do not plan on adding components to my system or significantly altering it. I'll change the headunit and two speakers in the next year or so. Assuming that my current setup is under 180 amps, should I purchase a 180 amp alternator, or go for 220 (or higher). I don't mind spending more money if the life of the alternator will be extended by going for the gusto when it comes to its size and making it much too large. Conversely, I don't want to get too large of an alternator if the length of its life will not be extended with it being of overkill proportion.

I will upgrade the big 3 as well. With my current specs, is 0 gauge necessary? I'm fairly sure it isn't, but are there benefits that make it worth the money? Perhaps you could recommend a more reasonable size.

I will also upgrade my car's battery as well as install an additional one. I do very little driving, fewer than 10 miles per day and all city miles. Engine is a CVT that doesn't mimic gear ratios so i rarely exceed 2500 rpm. Are there any specific brands and sizes that are typically recommended for this use? I'd like to go overkill in this area, but I think I may find that cost prohibitive, so I'd like to be a bit conservative here (I don't mean that I want or expect cheap). I've already purchased a trickle charger and plan on using it more regularly to improve the life of my batteries.


Please don't hate me for my setup. I have a cheap car that which I'm keeping so I can learn more about general maintenance and DIY repairs. I'm not trying to make my car more valuable, only trying to have good quality audio when I so choose. I promise, my home system is 🔥.

My 2008 Altima setup is merely upgraded factory speakers and a sub.
2-Kicker 43CSC654 6-1/2" (behind back seat mounted) 100 watts RMS (300 watts peak power)
2-Kenwood KFC-1666S 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers (driver/passenger door mounted) handles up to 30 watts RMS (300 watts peak power)
Dual Electronics SBP8A subwoofer. (160 watt-peak)
ATOTO A6 Pro A6Y2721PRB headunit. (edit:with built in amplifier)
No post-factory amplifier--speakers are wired through headunit (except for the bass w/ 8 gauge copper)
 
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without looking it up im assuming that dual subwoofer you have has a built in amplifier? I cant imagine that drawing that much current to cause any issues but whadddaiknow. either way upgrading electrical is never a bad thing when it comes to car audio. I would do big 3 even with 4 awg and a good AGM battery before I would get HO alt.
 
without looking it up im assuming that dual subwoofer you have has a built in amplifier? I cant imagine that drawing that much current to cause any issues but whadddaiknow. either way upgrading electrical is never a bad thing when it comes to car audio. I would do big 3 even with 4 awg and a good AGM battery before I would get HO alt.

You are correct. Built in amp on the subwoofer. I was considering starting with the big 3 and battery then doing the alternator later, but I didn't know how quickly an insufficient alternator would ruin the battery-I want to avoid this if I'm going to spend good money on a battery.
 
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Taylor B.

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