Alt, battery, or somethin else?

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

This one is quite long, and I really need help. I have an '01 Accord 4 cyl sedan.

I have only have 1 amp hooked up (RF T30001bd) and I've tested it to pull about 162A at 11.4V (voltage was taken at the amp, not the battery). I have 1/0 wiring and the Big 3 done as well as an Odyssey PC 1200 under the hood.

About 3 months ago I got the battery put in and there was dimming, of course...but other than that, no problem. I then got my stock alt upgraded to a 160A alt with a smaller pulley. After about 5 mins of installing I drive off and the lights for the low battery, doors and trunk open, and e-brake lit up. It happens when I'm slowing down, probably around 20 mph and under. When I am stopped it sometimes flashes or stays lit. Sometimes it does nothing. When it's flashing or lit, I put it in neutral and back into drive and it goes away.

I was told the computer needs to be reset and going to the dealership they said they can do it, but dont think it will fix the problem and it will cost $90 to fix. I'm not going to pay that much for them to try it out and it possibly not work. This wasn't too big of an issue, but I do want it to go away...read on to find out the real issue thats worrying me. I was also told to rev the vehicle at 3,000 rpm and turn the car off and back on or something like that to reset the ECU. Anybody know about this?

About two weeks ago i let my gas tank get way too low and drove on fumes for quite some time. After filling up with a full tank I drove and the car shut off. I tried starting it but nothing happened. After a minute I got it to work. Every now and then for the rest of the 15 minute drive it would nearly shut off and I would have to press the gas pedal all the way down so the vehicle would stay on. My mechanic said it was air bubbles or something. That problem seemed to have gone away. But this past week I put my subs back in and I do play quite loud at times on the freeway. Now I'm not sure if it does this after playing the system loud for some time or without, but sometimes the vehicle stalls. If I press the brakes and then take my foot off the pedal and decide to accelerate normally it sometimes jerks the car. Kinda like pressing the pedal, hearing it rev as if its in neutral and then dropping it in drive. Also, when I come to a stop, the car is still, but a second or two later, it kind of jerks as well.

What could be the problem of this? I'm tempted to swap the alt but it is time consuming, especially since one of the bolts got stripped and I had to get a new one and re-thread it. Tightening the alternator in place is also tough with limited space. Just wondering if anyone has an idea what is going on. Thanks.

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[NissanKicker 10+ year member]

It sounds like your Alternator to me.... I have a 95 Honda Accord LX, and when I upgraded my Alt to a 140a it started doin' the same thing. Make sure that ALL the connections are tight and firm. ( My Alternator Ground ( To the engine block ) was jiggling and that interffered w/ it charging my battery. ( Thank god I put a Yellow Top up front )

If that it's the problem, got get a free Alt & Bat. check up from AutoZone.

And about the computer thing - That's correct. You computer is set for factory. You upgraded your alt and added a shorter pulley.

Ex: If you decide to do what I did ( Put 22s on your Honda Accord ). Your ****** is gonna get use to pulling about a few months. Then when you put the stocks back on, You'll feel your car jerk, due to the fact another change has been made.

The Computer is set for a 105-110 Alt. About 90Amps on Idle.... Regular belts.

You have a 160Amp - Higher Idle rate, also your belt is shorter which rotates faster; Therefore making the system think it's being rev'd up.

Other words, Yes - you need to get it reset.

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

Any ideas about how to get it reset without having to pay the dealer $90? Also, my belt is actually the OEM one. I understand what youre about the car jerking, but is that only from going something upgraded back to the original?

 

[NissanKicker 10+ year member]

Honda's are imports.... Unless you can find an import FANATIC! I'd go to the Dealership and let them.

1. Your alt could be faulty ( As far as not charging or just faulty PERIOD ).

2. Your batt could be running out of juice.

3. ECU just need to be reset.

It's 1 of those... Unless you ain't tell me that you like to SMASH out!

But you need to go get your Alt & Batt checked out before you pay the Dealership. * Just to comfirm *

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

Yeah i'll probably head to autozone today after work. i've checked the battery when sitting for a while. it reads 12.8v. when i turn on the car, it reads 14.4v. at the alternator it reads 14.5v.

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

Here's an update. I drove the car this morning and it didn't really seem to "jerk" at all. I kept the volume down, but after exiting the freeway, I noticed the problem was back. So it may not be because of pulling too much current. I didnt really think it would be that in the first place since for a good month or so I was running the same setup and didnt have any problems. I have a feeling it MIGHT have to do with letting my gas get too low that one time. If that is the case, what would I need to get checked?

edit: crap, i wasted my 2k post on this? FTL //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif oh well

 

[NissanKicker 10+ year member]

If that's the case...

Let a mechanic flesh out your Fuel Tank... This requires you to have some gas in a gas container, simple because they'll be nomore gas. And also he'll be gettin' rid of ALL that GOOP @ the bottom of your gas tank.

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

Update: My mechanic reset the ECU at no charge //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

And he believes its the ****** but will have a look at it. Apparently, as someone I know pointed out, along with my mechanic, the Accords of this gen have that problem. My mechanic just got done rebuilding 1 ****** and installing it an Accord and is going to do another one tomorrow. I'll have him check the fuel pump and replace the fuel filter as well.

 

[GMCJimmyslt2000 10+ year member]

of course nissian was wrong, just like always. Why give shit advice!?

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

He could be right about resetting the ECU though for the lights to go away, ill have to just drive and see if it happens.

I don't doubt that the fuel filter is filled with junk either, i've let the car get low on gas several times. I won't even let it get below 1/3 anymore.

 

[dragnix 5,000+ posts]

shitty Honda auto ****** //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif

 

[GMCJimmyslt2000 10+ year member]

it just seems like everytime he suggests something, it is wrong.

 

[GMCJimmyslt2000 10+ year member]

o and who puts 22's on an accord, that just fukin stupid.

 

[dragnix 5,000+ posts]

o and who puts 22's on an accord, that just fukin stupid.

ur a real big help //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

o and who puts 22's on an accord, that just fukin stupid.

show car? I'll stick to my 15" hub caps...twas funny when I had an 18" sub. My sub was bigger than my hubs and almost as large as my entire tire //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif