Alpine PDX amps

[AAAAAAA 10+ year member]

You guys know what I mean, if you have let's say a sundown 4 channel and you are running a 2 way active setup, you are effectively wasting half the power. You will never see it (When running 4 ohm comps).

With the PDX, it is running at it's optimal load in both 4 and 2 ohms. So you paid for 600 watts, that's what you are getting (Even though as mentioned before, you won't be hearing 600watts continuous).

 

[phantom240 5,000+ posts]

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I'll see the youngsters running around talking about their systems running X amount of wattage and a couple of different times I've asked how often they roll around blasting test tones at full tilt volume and when I get the blank stares that tell me they haven't a clue as to what I am talking about I quietly tell them they've never gotten even rated RMS output from their amps. It just won't happen...

Thats why I run ridiculous amps on such small speakers. I ran my 1507 (rated at 900w @4 ohms rms) on a pair of 12s rated at 225 rms. My friend thought I would have blown em in a week... 2 years later, I sell him the subs and they work to this day. ROFL.

 

[smd4life 5,000+ posts]

You guys know what I mean, if you have let's say a sundown 4 channel and you are running a 2 way active setup, you are effectively wasting half the power. You will never see it (When running 4 ohm comps).
With the PDX, it is running at it's optimal load in both 4 and 2 ohms. So you paid for 600 watts, that's what you are getting (Even though as mentioned before, you won't be hearing 600watts continuous).

that not at all how you explained it....actually you didn't explain anything at first, you just said "you don't watse power like you would with other brands running components. You always get 100% of the power."

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

You guys know what I mean, if you have let's say a sundown 4 channel and you are running a 2 way active setup, you are effectively wasting half the power. You will never see it (When running 4 ohm comps).
With the PDX, it is running at it's optimal load in both 4 and 2 ohms. So you paid for 600 watts, that's what you are getting (Even though as mentioned before, you won't be hearing 600watts continuous).

I just buy an amp that's rated for the speakers I use at the load I am running. Just because my amp can be used at 2 ohms and have more power, doesn't mean I wasted money.

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

I just buy an amp that's rated for the speakers I use at the load I am running. Just because my amp can be used at 2 ohms and have more power, doesn't mean I wasted money.

Yup.

I just bought a monoblock that will easily run stable at 1 Ohm and do 1.5kW+ at that load.

I have it hooked up to a single DVC 4 Ohm sub wired in parallel to 2 Ohms.

Just because there is capability there being unused doesn't necessarily mean it is being wasted....at a 2 Ohm load this amp is still loud and reliable as an oak tree in addition to having the expandibility to run a second DVC 4 Ohm sub should I choose to in the future.

Money well spent IMO.

 

[Celly 10+ year member]

Thats why I run ridiculous amps on such small speakers. I ran my 1507 (rated at 900w @4 ohms rms) on a pair of 12s rated at 225 rms. My friend thought I would have blown em in a week... 2 years later, I sell him the subs and they work to this day. ROFL.

Seriously, sorry to HiJack the thread... I sorta always knew this, but I don't "Know" this, if that makes any sense...

I just did some searching, and can't really find a simple explanation of the math behind this... How can someone figure out, within some level of accuracy, how to properly spec an Amp to a Speaker combo? Is it pretty much a guessing game? Or do you sound lords have a tool / algorithm to figure this out?

 

[phantom240 5,000+ posts]

I cant really explain. Well maybe I can shed some light at least. Most people set their gains using a test tone at a given volume level on their HU... which is fine... I use music to set mine for my components. I also use amps that are larger than you would think to use on them. Then I set my gains to how many watts RMS I want to push out on music, and thats about it. I know there are probably better ways to do this, but it works for me and I havent blown up anything yet (knock on wood, eh?)

btw, it isnt an exact science.

 

[AAAAAAA 10+ year member]

I have had numerous amps and most of them make full power in stereo mode at 2 ohms. Most component sets or speakers are 4ohm. I don't think anyone can argue that. When running an active setup, it means that unless your brigde your amp your not plugged in at the amps optimal load.

And I was about to change my inital post because it was writen to fast and I knew some of you guys would be all worried that I would think that the amp plays music such as it would a sound wave on a resistor.

SMD4LIFE

Sorry that I didn't explain anything according to you. I did post that the amp was all about small foot print, low heat\efficiency.

The other point was that your always getting optimal performance from the amp just like the PG xenon,RSD and I think the JL amps? That's a really nice feature. Especially for guys looking to run active such as myself.

 

[TunedPerfect 10+ year member]

I agree with Phantom, I use larger amplifiers than recommended for the speakers simply because I would rather the speakers to get most of the stress as they are usually cheaper than having the amp working its a** off trying to power your speakers fully. I run my components bridged and it works good for me, less distortion @ 4 ohms than 2. I personally tune using a set of test tones, but usually with my experience I can just use a good quality audio CD.

Anyways as far as the PDX amps, my buddy got the 1000.1 and it pounds his 2 type r 10s and of course it sounds crisp just like alpine intended. And they are really small, a little bigger than the road thunder MTXs if you are familiar w/ those.

I ordered myself a 1000.1 and the 4 channel and honestly they are cheap for Alpine amps, perfect amps if space is a main concern.