adding a sub to factory Bose system 2012 Maxima

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Bossman150

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I want to add some low end to my factory setup. Eventually I will replace everything but I just dropped over $2.5k on Smart Start and a new exhaust system, so for now I am just going to add a sub. I listen to rock and country and I don't want something that will shake the block as I drive, I just want that extra punch that the factory setup lacks.

I have an appointment for an install next week and right now I have a brand new JL Audio JX 250/1 amp and I am planning on pairing that with 1 JL W1v3 2 ohm in a .60cu sealed box. I forgot to mention it needs to take up very little space, I am a single dad to two boys and trunk space is at a premium. I think I will have them install the amp on the back of the seat in the trunk and ask that they leave enough speaker wire that I can easily pull the sub box out and remove it when needed.

Anyway, I was torn between the W1v3 and a W3v3 but I already have the JX 250/1 amp and I think that would be a bit underpowered for the W3. Also the W3 might be too much for me anyway. The main question I have however comes down to the LOC converter. The shop wants to install a passive LOC and say an active one isn't needed. People on the form for my car insist I should buy an LC2i:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CTBYGE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both the passive and the LC2i have the option of a remote bass control knob which is an absolute must, I have to be able to turn the sub down/off when my boys are in the car. Do you guys think it's worth the extra $50 for the LC2i?

 
Being 250 watts I doubt you will need to turn it down even with grandma in the car. The W3 is a much better sub in every way. You want the LC-2
Hehe, about 15 years ago I had 1 JL 10 and iirc a rockford punch amp in my '99 Cougar and it was plenty loud and back then I listened to rap mostly. The box I admit was huge, took up most of the trunk/hatch. Not something I want to subject my 5 year old to as I am sure the W1 is much better than whatever model sub the JL was back then. The JL 250/1 is perfect for the W1, but I think a little underpowered for the W3. I would shell out the extra if it was just the sub itself, but I would also probably need a JL 500/1 to run the W3 properly and that's another chunk there.

Edit: and thanks for the advice on the LC-2, I am leaning that way.

 
I have a brand new JL Audio JX 250/1 amp and I am planning on pairing that with 1 JL W1v3 2 ohm in a .60cu sealed box. Do you guys think it's worth the extra $50 for the LC2i?
I sure hope you chose the 10" version for that .60 sealed enclosure..

And yes, you want the LC2i, passive components draw their power from the signal and you have signal loss, Active components are externally powered from the source voltage so there is no signal loss.

 
Yes, didn't realize I forgot to say a 10", I prefer the sound from a 10 over a 12.

Edit: I ordered an LC2i with remote knob. I would certainly hope they know how to properly install it.

 
Question on where you would normally install the LC2i, or is it just user preference? I have seen that some people tap into the speakers near the head unit and some tap into the rear speakers in the trunk for my car. Also if they install it in my trunk, I would only need short RCA's to go from the LC2i to the amp, correct? Sorry if these are dumb questions, I have never done an install with an LOC. I want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row when I get to the installer Saturday.

 
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