Adding 2 amps, 1 10" sub, and 4 speakers to factory head unit

[2.0Tsunami]

The following is a list of components I'm trying to install to my factory head unit:

Alpine MRP-M500 500W x 1 at 2 Ohms Car Amplifier

Alpine SWR-1043D 10" Dual 4-ohm component Subwoofer 600w RMS

Alpine MRP-F300 50W x 4 Car Amplifier

Polk Audio DXi650s 6.5" Slim Mount Coaxial Speakers (x2) (55w RMS)

The only experience I have is installing headunits and single amp + sub(s). The two amps bring up a couple of questions:

1. I was planning on having a 4 GA cable that would be distributed into 2 8 GA. Where should I have fuses installed?

one on each 8 GA?

one on the 4 GA?

or both a and b?

2. How should I configure the amps? One signal to both or should I tap into both of my rear speakers?

I'll probably have more questions as I layout my install. Let me know if you have any recommendations or suggestions. Thanks.

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[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

1. run your power wire from the front battery to the rear. use a distrobution block and run your 8 gauge wire from there with fuses in between the distro and the amps.

 

[2.0Tsunami]

1. run your power wire from the front battery to the rear. use a distrobution block and run your 8 gauge wire from there with fuses in between the distro and the amps.

Ok, thx. Any idea about the signal?

 

[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

Ok, thx. Any idea about the signal?

you can splice your remote to turn on 2 amps off the same remote wire. your rcas are probably going to want to be seperated if you have multiple outputs from your HU

 

[2.0Tsunami]

you can splice your remote to turn on 2 amps off the same remote wire. your rcas are probably going to want to be seperated if you have multiple outputs from your HU

I'm don't think my factory unit (DODGE) has RCA's. I was planning on using the high level inputs on the amp (bad idea? Should I use a Line out converter instead?). I'm used to running amps off aftermarket HU. This is my first go at keeping a factory HU.

 

[2.0Tsunami]

bump for more insight

 

[BlackG35inTN]

I just bought an Audio Control LC2i to tap into my rear speakers for line level inputs. It does not need a remote wire but you can run remote wires from it, to your amps. It has pre outs for a full range amp and a sub amp. Here is the link to the page with a video to better help you understand how it works.

http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/17612/645207/OEM-Integration/Two-Channel-Line-Out-Converter-with-AccuBASStm-and-Subwoofer-Control----LC2i.html

Thanks to a great tip from cf2004, I was able to get this thing for $80 when they normally run$100 anywhere else you go:

"go to crutchfield and buy it for 99.99.

then, buy a foot of cheap speakerwire to get the total over $100

then, use this code and get 200$ off

coupon code 3A825 for

$20 off Orders $100+

so $80 for BNIB. "

As far as your power wire, you'd be fine runing 4ga to the back to the distros, then 8ga off them to your amps. If nothing else, you must fuse the 4ga AT THE BATTERY. It would be ok, to fuse the 8ga at your amps with smaller fuses if the amp itself isnt already fused. If they are already fused, I dont see the need to do it after the distos unless you are running some powerful gear. In that case, you would probablly need to run some 0ga. If you want to be extra cautious, feel free to fuse both amps, but do so right next to the amps.

Also, you want to make sure you add an additional ground from the battery to the chasis the same gauage as your power wire coming off the battery. This is just one of the steps in "the big 3" but IMO this is very important.

Hope this helps.

 

[2.0Tsunami]

Thx BlackG35inTN, I think that's what I was looking for. The only thing is that is says it's rated for 400w RMS.

My sub amp is rated at 500 x 1 RMS and

My 4 channel is rated at 50w x 4 RMS.

Guess I'll have to find a stronger one. Either that, or I'm misunderstanding what the 400w rating is applicable to.

 

[BlackG35inTN]

Thx BlackG35inTN, I think that's what I was looking for. The only thing is that is says it's rated for 400w RMS.
My sub amp is rated at 500 x 1 RMS and

My 4 channel is rated at 50w x 4 RMS.

Guess I'll have to find a stronger one. Either that, or I'm misunderstanding what the 400w rating is applicable to.

No, No, No......

"allows it to accept speaker-level signals of up to 400 watts per channel from factory-installed source units or amplifiers"

meaning, if you tap into the wiring coming from your factory wiring going to your speakers (which I'm going to do) that output from the factory amp(or probablly HU in your case) can not exceed 400w. It's not talking about the output of your aftermarket amps. This is the signal going to the LC2i. I doubt you have a 400w HU or factory amp, so you're good.

 

[2.0Tsunami]

No, No, No......"allows it to accept speaker-level signals of up to 400 watts per channel from factory-installed source units or amplifiers"

meaning, if you tap into the wiring coming from your factory wiring going to your speakers (which I'm going to do) that output from the factory amp(or probablly HU in your case) can not exceed 400w. It's not talking about the output of your aftermarket amps. This is the signal going to the LC2i. I doubt you have a 400w HU or factory amp, so you're good.

Gothca, thx. One more question, the LOC has 2 channels, one for main and the other for sub. However, my 4 channel has more than one pair of inputs. What should I do there?

 

[Palos 10+ year member]

Bump. Any more info to this? I'm planning on doing the same thing. 2 amps, 1 sub, 6 speakers (components up front) and stock head unit.

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

you could have used a 4ch loc, where you would still keep your fading controls, which is nice when you have passengers in the rear, especially children. the lc6, or the three.1 (not three.2) would work nicely. the lc6 allows you to use all 4 channels, and then you can adjust and install/tune it in a descrete location, like behind the glove box, near the speaker wires. the three.1 allows you to to turn 2 channels into 6, and you can fade it there, and tune the bass, etc right from the driver seat. btw, the factory head does have a remote turn-on that can be tapped into if you need to have it. check the controls on the 4ch amp. there might be a setting where it only needs the 2 inputs, right and left. if not, you can just use a pair of rca splitters.