Ab VFL150.1

Your alt would have to be much larger to keep up with a 200amp current draw. The reason is because the alt is also powering the truck. Odds are you will see low 12s..maybe lower if you are letting it go for a while.

The gold 150.1 is not a bad amp overall. They will put out some power, but I have not clamped one since they came out and I don't remember what they were doing back then. I do know we used 4 on 4 VFL 15s in a CRX to do mid/high 150's for a buddy. Swapped out to Visonik 4ks and did gain or lose anything.
not saying you dont know what you taking about but the amp i have now has a 250 amp pull and i stay mid 12s @ fulltilt @ 2krpms with a stock 100amp alt????? so what you are telling me is when i put my new HO 220amp alt(248amps @ 2krpms) on, my voltage is going to go down?

 
If you are relying on just the alt, you will still have voltage drop yes. If you have a battery bank of some sort it is debatable as to what will happen.

There are many things that will play a roll in your voltage though.

If you are going "full tilt" now with no voltage drop you are more then likely are not getting the power you think, it is also not consistent. I hate to say it, but it just don't work that way, while there are many things that will affect voltage, these trucks I know 100% more then anything else.

 
found this on caco

American Bass VFL 150.1

-.4 ohm nominal. Rise to 1 ohm exact

-drop to 13.3

-2,981 watts

imp american bass is a better product than the ss and and ab sell like hot cakes lol.

also ab vfl amps are rated @1 ohm and will run on .5 all day with proper electrical

 
I would get that amp......In my opinion the AB VFL series of amps are SOLID.........Pick up the phone and call Chris @ DBR.......I spoke with him right before I purchased the 120.1.....He can give you the 411 on ALL of the major Korean born amplifiers........
where can i get his number from... i may get it tho. but what pro-rabbit just said voltage drop confuses me. i maintain mids 12's fulltilt @ 2krpms on my stock 100a alt. i have a new one. just not put on yet like said above, 220a and 248a @ 2krpms(hince i never run fultilt unless im at 2krpms), that my voltage would be low 12's? so im confused

 
where can i get his number from... i may get it tho. but what pro-rabbit just said voltage drop confuses me. i maintain mids 12's fulltilt @ 2krpms on my stock 100a alt. i have a new one. just not put on yet like said above, 220a and 248a @ 2krpms(hince i never run fultilt unless im at 2krpms), that my voltage would be low 12's? so im confused
What your confusing is that your not getting that power all the time or often. So you are only dipping into the 12s now. Your current voltage drop will improve with a better alternator. However, if you actually have that kind of output from your amp you will still dip down in voltage even with the new alternator.

 
I think what RABBIT is trying to say is your amp or any amp for that matter is NOT going to pull it's maximum current all the time UNLESS you are riding around playing TEST TONES.........Music is musical.........The load is going to vary greatly from one end of the spectrum to the other.........I would suggest getting the VFL and installing the new alternator along with a few batteries to support it and ROCK ON!!!!!

 
What your confusing is that your not getting that power all the time or often. So you are only dipping into the 12s now. Your current voltage drop will improve with a better alternator. However, if you actually have that kind of output from your amp you will still dip down in voltage even with the new alternator.
ok see. that makes sense. it didnt at first because you said low 12s and im not in the low 12's right now. i stay 12.6 - 12.8 with my stock alt. and the alt i have now is bigger then the pull from the ab plus i have 3 batts as well. but yea i see what your saying. the power part i was just looking for a realistc power number not really the clamped power i dont burp so i know im not getting that number anyway.

 
I think what RABBIT is trying to say is your amp or any amp for that matter is NOT going to pull it's maximum current all the time UNLESS you are riding around playing TEST TONES.........Music is musical.........The load is going to vary greatly from one end of the spectrum to the other.........I would suggest getting the VFL and installing the new alternator along with a few batteries to support it and ROCK ON!!!!!
yea i get what he is saying now. and yea i know it verys with music. i was looking for a realistic number not a burp neccesarly. im debating the ab because ive never had one but wanted one also the ab can run .5 ohm if i want it to.

 
Make the trade. Love those DTR's, but the VFL's are some of the best amps on the planet. I honestly think the DTR3400 might have the slight edge in power, but for your application, you might be better off with the AB.

 
Make the trade. Love those DTR's, but the VFL's are some of the best amps on the planet. I honestly think the DTR3400 might have the slight edge in power, but for your application, you might be better off with the AB.
yea i mean i need something that will make as power as possible on music. plus i only run at 1 ohm so id rather have power at 1ohm. im not going to run at .5 ohm however i still can if i want to seeing the ab's can be ran at .5 as well

 
the older gold vfl's are nothing lke the newer vfl's!!!!

with that said the older ones do have board issues at least with my experience (vfl 500.1). now if u find a newer vfl this thread should have never been started!!!!

 
the older gold vfl's are nothing lke the newer vfl's!!!!
with that said the older ones do have board issues at least with my experience (vfl 500.1). now if u find a newer vfl this thread should have never been started!!!!
well i guess "you live and you learn". so ima take my chances i know a few guys who have these and have never had a problem.

 
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