Papermaker85
5,000+ posts
Banned
with a prosound 6.5 you going to be crossing it at around 120-150hz to get it to get LOUD as **** and sound great. when i recommend drivers to someone who wants agood midbass and output i typicall recommend drivers that have a good deal of xmax(4.5mm+) and something with a low MMS and faily stiff suspension and a mid to low QE and FS around the desired xover point. un fourtinally VERY few drivers are designed for this application.
most HT drivers have a low Q low FS and high mass of just a really soft suspension and they really dont work well. on the other hand car audio "drop IN" midbass/range generally has the proper mechanical dampening but a much higher Q for the wider bandwidth and free air application.
just dropping the nicest or cheapest prosound driver might not be excatly what ya want money.. lucky for you i have just the driver for you.
this you can crossover around 80hz 24 db octave. its still a pretty loud lil driver and will give you way better midbass than a 6.5 prosound driver. most 6.5 prosound drivers cannot properly play down past about 120hz Hz. this would give you much better MIDbass and still play up to around 2-3k
sorry no link..
http://www.parts-express.com/aurum-cantus-ac-165-6-1-2-carbon-fiber-kevlar-woofer--296-410
its going to have good lowend output and great extention up top. feed it about 80 watts carefully. they won't be as loud as a prosound driver but will sound much more natural in the midibass and lowend of the midragne with the slightly smoother and faster rolloff above 2.5k.
If you want a LOUD AS **** but good soudning tweeter do a ribbon or a hybrid planar. they sound much more natural than the prosound tweeter which are ******* harsh and they have killer output with HIGH efficency because of the low operating mass.. 20 watts and your going to want to shoot yourself.
http://www.parts-express.com/hivi-rt1c-a-planar-isodynamic-tweeter--297-400
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