6.5" subs in small front enclosures,,,

[robspeed2002 10+ year member]

either in the center console, kick boxes, doors wont work (on my car anyways)... what i want to do is run my 10" subs in the trunk from 25 to 50hz, then have the front 6.5"subs take it to 150hz, then the regular 5.25" door speakers take it from there...

id need a three-way crossover 18db/octave ... any suggestions? anybody else set up their systems this way??

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[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

If they're truly subs, let them roll off naturally on the bottom end. Keep the rear sub down really low but crossed in the 80-100hz region. If you want to really rock out turn the rear sub up.

 

[robspeed2002 10+ year member]

If they're truly subs, let them roll off naturally on the bottom end. Keep the rear sub down really low but crossed in the 80-100hz region. If you want to really rock out turn the rear sub up.

i would rather have at least a highpass on them at 50-60hz, for power-handling purposes. i want to be able to pound the front "subs" and cut out the low stuff to limit midbass distortion.. I want to be able to pound out the deep bass in the trunk and then let the front "subs" take up the midbass.

rear sub (active lowpass):

2x10" ==> 25-50/60hz (370w mono)

front midbass (active bandpass):

2x6.5"==>50/60-150hz (2x75w stereo)

front components (active highpass):

2x5.25"==>150-3000hz (2x75w stereo)

2x1" ===>3000-20,000hz (passive from ^^)

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Fair enough. I would run kicks to keep the stereo separation.

Reading your sig, I have a suggestion on an improvement that won't cost anything. The way you plan to wire your subs to the amp is less than optimal. Reverse your plan and you will get better results. Series wire each sub's coils and then parallel the subs. Same load but a slightly different outcome from the stnadpoint of driver interaction.

 

[robspeed2002 10+ year member]

Fair enough. I would run kicks to keep the stereo separation.
Reading your sig, I have a suggestion on an improvement that won't cost anything. The way you plan to wire your subs to the amp is less than optimal. Reverse your plan and you will get better results. Series wire each sub's coils and then parallel the subs. Same load but a slightly different outcome from the stnadpoint of driver interaction.

what is the theory behind that?

someone on the "general" forum suggested the Coustic XM6, which will let me run the midbass subs from as low as 40hz (i will prolly run 50-60hz) and the upper cutoff at 300hz, which is higher than i wanted but should work anyways. It will let the a/d/s/es run as midranges and above and rely on the front subs for all the midbass (50/60hz-300hz). should work nicely, and the coustic is relatively cheap! now just need to figure out what front subs to use.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

EDIT: OH DUH THAT WAS YOU! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Gary S 10+ year member]

I would run kicks to keep the stereo separation.
.

- This is very important.

Series wire each sub's coils and then parallel the subs. Same load but a slightly different outcome from the stnadpoint of driver interaction.

- Is this the JL Audio theory - don't wire separate drivers in series?

 

[robspeed2002 10+ year member]

taxi, i changed my sig... if its good enuf for JL,,,,, //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif