4channel amp for front comps and subs

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w74bronco

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Yes, I've used the search function, but nothing definitive popped up.

I'm looking for a 4 channel amp to power a set of undecided passive front components and 2 RE8 subwoofers in my Tundra. Any recommended features you would find useful to accomodate my situation?

I'll be running it all from an Eclipse 7100, can I rely on the crossover settings in the head unit, or should I be searching for an amp with great crossover settings? Or should I be relying on the crossover that comes with the comps? Thats a lot of crossing over!

Thanks!

 
Yes, I've used the search function, but nothing definitive popped up.
I'm looking for a 4 channel amp to power a set of undecided passive front components and 2 RE8 subwoofers in my Tundra. Any recommended features you would find useful to accomodate my situation?

I'll be running it all from an Eclipse 7100, can I rely on the crossover settings in the head unit, or should I be searching for an amp with great crossover settings? Or should I be relying on the crossover that comes with the comps? Thats a lot of crossing over!

Thanks!

- As far as the crossover is concerned, it depends on how tweakable the ones are in your head unit... are they continuously variable? If they are just a few selections of fixed points, such as 80hz, 100hz, 120hz, instead of continuous, or having lots of different crossover points, look for an amp with adjustable built-in crossovers... which will be easy, most of them have that these days. If they are multi-point, like more than 10, that might be all you need.

You will use the passive crossovers that came with the component set between the mid and tweeter, and the active in the radio or amp for the mid to sub crossover.

I like to see a high pass crossover on an amp that starts at least as low as 60 - 70 hz., in case you need it. I like a subwoofer low-pass section that goes at least as low as 50 hz. Most of the better ones will be within these specs.

Slope - standard is 12, which in most cases is fine... but a higher order low-pass for the sub could in some cases help with the illusion of your bass actually coming from up front... generally preferred. High order would be 18db per octave or 24 db. Might limit your selection of amps and be more expensive though, and there is no guarantee of better sound... actual settings you use and installation/design of your system can change everything.

However, if your subs are very close to and/or firing into the seats, such as the case of some trucks, the higher order crossover might not help.

I don't mind if the amp has a subsonic filter (you want this for ported/bandpass boxes), but I like to see an off switch for this feature.

Don't skimp on power, don't be afraid to overpower.

Finally, there are still no laws/regulations for car amplifier power ratings... this means manufacturer's can and do lie... best way to compare amps on the fly is by the rating of the built-in fuses in the amps... compare amps per dollars. Cardomain, carstereoonline, and sonicelectronix list fuse ratings for many amps.

 
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w74bronco

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