3ohm

[ahole-ic]

look man...i dont know how to explain it any clearer. its a weird fucking noise that doesnt sound like it should be coming from a subwoofer.

Someone call the lifeguard!

 

[Liquid Bass 10+ year member]

Someone call the lifeguard!

i have an idea....since it appears you have not provided any relevant information, and obviously cant see the simple questions present in my posts you should remove yourself from my thread.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

Ok dude fill me in on this info:

Sub size, model:

Sealed box dimensions:

Power its on:

HU and settings regarding bass, treble, boost, etc:

 

[Liquid Bass 10+ year member]

Ok dude fill me in on this info:
Sub size, model:

Sealed box dimensions:

Power its on:

HU and settings regarding bass, treble, boost, etc:

ok its a 15 inch eclipse ti, duel 3 ohm.

cant remember the box specs but i think its somwhere around 2.5 cubes sealed.

the sub is seeing around 1k.

amp gains are set correctly and bass boost is off.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

What are the bass settings on the HU at? Bass, treble, etc. should all be set to 0 or flat.

The box is slightly larger than what it calls for. 2.25 cubes before any displacement is what I remember reading.

 

[ahole-ic]

It's either a leaky sealed box, torn spider, or tinsel slap. Why can't I report my own post?

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

This 3 ohm topic always irks me.
People. When you buy a driver that has a nominal 4 ohm value, it almost always measures somewhere around 3 ohms. Likewise, when you buy a driver that has a nominal value of 2 ohms, it can measure as low 1.2-1.4 ohms. What has happened is that some manufacturers have started publishing the actual Re (DC resistance of the coil at rest) as the driver's nominal value. Measure the coils on an Eclipse Ti that are spec'd as a dual 3 ohm setup and you'll get a reading of 3.1-3.2 ohms. It should've been rated as a dual 4 ohm driver from day one.

The point is, any time you see a specification of 3 ohms for a voice coil, just treat it exactly as you would a 4 ohm coil. It will be just fine to run it on an amplifier that's rated to run a 4 ohm load while bridged. That's exactly what the amplifier is expecting to "see" - an actual Re of around 3 ohms. It has ALWAYS been this way, it's just that marketing departments are fucking things up.

Some links to drive this point home. Note the nominal impedance of each driver and then the corresponding Re value.

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_338_340&products_id=8637

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_338_340&products_id=8682

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_338_340&products_id=8535

ciaonzo is correct ( as usual lol )

and this is all you need to know to get started... after that then see if you have weird issues and address them 1 at a time...