..

You can pick up the factory remote lead in that car real easy if it has any of the Shaker systems (though you may need a relay as it is only a 5v setup instead of 12, but that's an easy fix). It would certainly work better and more reliably than a switch.

 
no shaker system in this car. The thing that is weird is the light on the switch is on and everything. the minute the power wire touches the battery connection on the amp the light goes out on the switch and no power. I dont understand how it worked for a night and now it doesn't //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
I thought maybe the amp got blown. I hooked it back up to my car and it powers right up. Do you think the ground is bad because it was working perfect last night. the paint is totally sanded down just bare metal.. should I just test to see if it's the ground by running some leftover 4AWG from the battery to the amp and see what's up? we were thinking it was the amps power wire so we ran some of my leftover 4AWG from the battery to the amp and it does the same thing. but we never tried a new ground run.

EDIT: Last night we tried jumping the constant 12v to the remote and it didn't power up. I was so tired I forgot we did that. so ground issue? this car has no good grounding spots..
I find it hard to believe the car has no good grounding spots. Whatever... You can always ground directly to battery.

 
it's a lease^^ //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
I think something is ****ed up with the positive run. I will check it later when the snowing stops. **** storm..//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
I had to ground my 2006 at the battery. The unibody construction makes for piss poor grounds in the rear of the car.

 
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